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anytire

Maytag Neptune Washer

31 posts in this topic

:yikes: Neptune top load Model FAV6800AWQ spins out of balance  and sets dc code. Machine is three years old and we never have repositioned clothes before. Floor is level in 3 yr old house and legs are tight. How do you remove agitators? I removed top and hangers appear in place. It wobbles so much it hits rub pads. 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

DC codes can be caused by a bad clutch.  If you open the lid, see if you can turn the tub by hand both ways, or only one.  If you can rotate it both ways the clutch is bad.  If you can only rotate it one way, lift the top up (top not the lid) and run the unit in the spin cycle.  The tumblers should only rotate 1/2 a turn or so in spin then be motionless as the basket spins.  If they continue to turn as the basket does, your clutch is bad. 

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Thanks for the manual! No other codes. Suspension appears ok. Is it possible something stuck ie coins in gears of agitators? Drum only turns one way appears clutch ok. Getting ready to digest manual..........

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Just because the tub only turns one way does not mean the clutch is good.  If it turned both, it would be bad, one way still means you have to watch the lifters (paddles in the bottom of the unit) in the spin cycle to see if they are turning,  If they are, the clutch is bad even though it was able to hold the tub from turning one way.

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How do you see the lifters working when the lid is locked shut? Is there a bypass?

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As I stated you can lift the top up, not the lid.  Top is held down by two clips in the front of the unit.  A putty knife works real well.  The clips are approximately 2-3" in from the left and right sides.  You push the knife in on the clips to release them while pulling up on the top.  After you have it released, close the lid while holding the top up and start the spin cycle.  The service manual (Page 33) shows you a picture of the left side clip in question.

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:D    OK, Now I will listen to you. Raised top and watched cycle. Lifters not moving when drum spins. Cycles back and forth lifters to spin. Appears clutch is ok. Seems like not enough rinse water to me. Still has a little suds and still goes out of balance and sets dc code when goes into spin cycle. Only washing 4-6 towels. Looks like all hangars attached.

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Did you have a load in the unit when you checked it (checked to see if tumblers were rotating during spin)?  I forgot to suggest that.  I have had units pass with nothing in it and fail with a load of clothes, forgot to mention that!  Almost all of the units I have had with DC codes have turned out to be clutch related.  If you are not getting unbalanced load codes, I would check to see if the tumblers are turning in spin with a load of clothes in it.

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I did have towels in. The A&E guy came and called his tech line and they had him unplug the tub displacement sensor and check for corrosion. The tech on the phone said he gets 4-5 calls a shift on same problem. He did and it was corroded so he cleaned and lubed it and the washer worked fine. He said it was possible that piece is bad and we may have to call him back. We went to supper after putting in a new load of towels and when we came back it was dc again!:yikes:. Now I don't (A) have a washer and (B) know whether to order a sensor.

Surely with 185+ people reading this post there is an answer out there..........

 

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Also forgot it is not just a dc code, but a violent wobble of whole tub assembly causing it to hit all rub pads and then kick-off. Never in three years have we had to reposition anything or watch for too small or too large of a load.

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did you check to see if the tumblers were rotating during spin? when you said there was still suds at the start of the spin cycle were they just suds or was there actually water in the tub?

The tub displacement sensor the the A&E tech refered to does not pertain to your problem (because you have a violent wobble), the sensor is doing what it's designed to do. You should call them back and get your money back.

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No the tumblers do not turn (rotate) when it is spinning. It alternates between tumblers and spin with the tumblers turning (adjusting) slightly.

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Now that you paid A&E I would get them back.  The corrosion they are referring to is on the harness end of the Tub displacement sensor where it comes up from the board, when it is corroded, it bleeds the voltage to ground and your display goes blank, not what you are seeing here.  You wrote in your last post

   

No the tumblers do not turn (rotate) when it is spinning. It alternates between tumblers and spin with the tumblers turning (adjusting) slightly

 

In spin it should only turn the tumblers for a 1/2 turn at the most at the very start of spin and they should never turn again once the tub starts it's spin.  If the sensor was causing the DC codes, you should have a bunch of code 10's in your stored diagnostic codes.  have you checked those?  Instructions on how to access are in your tech manual.   

Also, the suds left in the unit, as appl.tech.29501 (we have to get you a nickname bro!) asked, was it just suds or water.  If we do not drain all the water out and this thing starts to spin, it will bang around and give you DC codes as well.

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What you said on the tumblers. It appears they work correctly. It was water in the tub and the towels were pretty wet with a little suds. (not much). I did not check the stored codes and I do not believe the sensor is bad. I checked it out according to the manual for balance/unbalance. I find it hard to believe it is a piece of crap or is a design flaw like the many message boards on the net say. It worked perfect for almost three years.

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check the stored faults, there shouldn't have been any water in the tub, it should have drained before the spin cycle. I would suggest running the diagnostic test on the drain pump or at least visually verify that the water is pumping out.

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I find it hard to believe it is a piece of crap or is a design flaw like the many message boards on the net say. It worked perfect for almost three years.

 

The units they are talking about are front loader 3 & 4000 units, not this one.  Different animal.  Take out the tech sheet and check the codes, or have A$E back out and raise hell for them not fixing it.  I'm sure you dropped a pretty penny for for him to come out, pop the top and put a little lubri-plate grease on the displacement sensor.  Usually when it is that harness, it is obvious and as I stated, they will usually short and cause the unit to just stop like you unplugged it.  Check out the bulletin on the unit below.  Do you have a serial number of the unit?

  

FAV Clutch.pdf

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serial # 13490144EV. Last night it actually worked providing it was near full of towels. I still think they are still too wet when removed to dryer.......

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Your unit was made in November 2004 and would have the older designed clutch.  Let us know what the diagnostic codes say and what A&E has to say when they come back.  

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A&E put my call on ED status. (no not what you think) estimate declined on sensor for $84.00 plus labor. The codes in order were 10, 5, 16, 3, and 84?. I will clear and see what happens.

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OK now my problem has had 540 views but still not fixed. The wife said honey I do not think the washer finished spinning today. I checked it out and it had a dc code again. Never had a code for three years 1/1/05-12/29/07. I lifted the top (not the lid) and peered in to find a giant ball of clothes. There was 10 minutes left and it was on the spin cycle. There was 2" water in the bottom and the clothes were twisted and bunched altogether. I untwisted 3 times and restarted each time. The tumblers would wad it up some more, start to spin and turn less than one turn and stop. It would spin a couple terms violently and then stop.

If I call A&E they will charge me again because I declined the original estimate of a bad sensor. If I let him put that on I am convinced it will not help. $84.00 plus tax, labor, and service call.

Please Help! My wife is eyeing a Samsung Front Load set at Sears.

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[user=29975]anytire[/user] wrote:

OK now my problem has had 540 views but still not fixed. The wife said honey I do not think the washer finished spinning today. I checked it out and it had a dc code again. Never had a code for three years 1/1/05-12/29/07. I lifted the top (not the lid) and peered in to find a giant ball of clothes. There was 10 minutes left and it was on the spin cycle. There was 2" water in the bottom and the clothes were twisted and bunched altogether. I untwisted 3 times and restarted each time. The tumblers would wad it up some more, start to spin and turn less than one turn and stop. It would spin a couple terms violently and then stop.

If I call A&E they will charge me again because I declined the original estimate of a bad sensor. If I let him put that on I am convinced it will not help. $84.00 plus tax, labor, and service call.

Please Help! My wife is eyeing a Samsung Front Load set at Sears.

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:moon:

Sure... double post in red... That will endear you to the Dojo....Hows the Samsung set working?

 

 

Same problem. Lifting the TOP to watch the spin cycle begin, the agitators spin one way to pull the load off center, then spin 1/2 turn the other way to center the load.

As the machine begins the spin, it does appear that the wheels keep turning, moving the load off center. Causes tub to wobble until shut down, then cycle repeats. I can reach in the raised top at the last moment, re-center the clothes and it will work.  

It can be tough to focus on the wheels turning during spin :coocoo: but I am pretty sure they are moving after the drum begins. 2004 model, and I am inches away from ordering a clutch for it.

Just wanted to get another opinion.

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Yep if the tub is banging around and you error out with dC or Uc unbalance codes it’s time to drop the clutch out and maybe get you will get away with clutch One-Way Roller clutches bearing maintenance.

I have a process not the best for sure but maybe it will help see this post.  I thought the process was posted on this site some where.

Maybe the One-Way Roller clutches can be cleaned up with a wash of WD-40  and re-lube with Slick50-One Lube or your favorite bearing grease. 

If the One-Way Roller Clutches are severely rusted up replace the Clutch.  What are the first two digits of your serial number?  It will be 10 through 17.   From what I have learned the series 10 and 11 machines use the Upper One-Way roller clutches bearing ring.    All use the Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way roller clutches bearing.   If your machine doesn’t use the upper bearing ring don’t install if you replace the clutch pulley.

When you drop out the clutch pulley and before you clean up anything try this little test.

Holding what I call the Spinner Shaft coupler first picture. Insert that coupler into the Clutch One-Way Roller bearing plate. Now while holding the Spinner Shaft Coupler with one hand as I show in the second pic with your other hand rotate the white bearing plate in the CW direction around the Spinner Shaft Coupler.

The One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate should rotate freely in the CW direction this is the wash/agitate direction. Now rotate the One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate in the CCW direction it should lock up solid. 

Most times the One-Way Roller clutches will slip did it slip for you?   This will cause the agitator shaft to move slightly causing slight tumbler rotation while the wash basket begins to spin up unbalancing the wash load causing big time wash tub swings and those pesky unbalance error codes.

The Control Board sees the TDS analog voltage swings out of design limit and shuts down the spin cycle.   If the TDS was not working as designed the machine would walk across the room and unplug itself or self-destruct.   The Control Board programming will try several attempts to redistribute the wash load and when the magic number of wash load redistribution attempts has been reached the Control Board signals a dC or uC error code to the display.   I believe the FAV9800A signals a text error to the display i.e. “unbalance condition” or something like that…..Good Luck Dick

1st pic

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post-43385-129045116132_thumb.jpg

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