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Maytag Neptune Washer


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30 replies to this topic

#21 anytire

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Posted 03 January 2008 - 11:51 AM

OK now my problem has had 540 views but still not fixed. The wife said honey I do not think the washer finished spinning today. I checked it out and it had a dc code again. Never had a code for three years 1/1/05-12/29/07. I lifted the top (not the lid) and peered in to find a giant ball of clothes. There was 10 minutes left and it was on the spin cycle. There was 2" water in the bottom and the clothes were twisted and bunched altogether. I untwisted 3 times and restarted each time. The tumblers would wad it up some more, start to spin and turn less than one turn and stop. It would spin a couple terms violently and then stop.

If I call A&E they will charge me again because I declined the original estimate of a bad sensor. If I let him put that on I am convinced it will not help. $84.00 plus tax, labor, and service call.

Please Help! My wife is eyeing a Samsung Front Load set at Sears.


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#22 anytire

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Posted 03 January 2008 - 12:22 PM

[user=29975]anytire[/user] wrote:

OK now my problem has had 540 views but still not fixed. The wife said honey I do not think the washer finished spinning today. I checked it out and it had a dc code again. Never had a code for three years 1/1/05-12/29/07. I lifted the top (not the lid) and peered in to find a giant ball of clothes. There was 10 minutes left and it was on the spin cycle. There was 2" water in the bottom and the clothes were twisted and bunched altogether. I untwisted 3 times and restarted each time. The tumblers would wad it up some more, start to spin and turn less than one turn and stop. It would spin a couple terms violently and then stop.

If I call A&E they will charge me again because I declined the original estimate of a bad sensor. If I let him put that on I am convinced it will not help. $84.00 plus tax, labor, and service call.

Please Help! My wife is eyeing a Samsung Front Load set at Sears.



#23 Volkemon

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 11:53 AM

 

:moon:

Sure... double post in red... That will endear you to the Dojo....Hows the Samsung set working?

 

 

Same problem. Lifting the TOP to watch the spin cycle begin, the agitators spin one way to pull the load off center, then spin 1/2 turn the other way to center the load.

As the machine begins the spin, it does appear that the wheels keep turning, moving the load off center. Causes tub to wobble until shut down, then cycle repeats. I can reach in the raised top at the last moment, re-center the clothes and it will work.  

It can be tough to focus on the wheels turning during spin :coocoo: but I am pretty sure they are moving after the drum begins. 2004 model, and I am inches away from ordering a clutch for it.


Just wanted to get another opinion.

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#24 dh1200s

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Posted 04 February 2010 - 11:16 PM

Yep if the tub is banging around and you error out with dC or Uc unbalance codes it’s time to drop the clutch out and maybe get you will get away with clutch One-Way Roller clutches bearing maintenance.

I have a process not the best for sure but maybe it will help see this post.  I thought the process was posted on this site some where.

Maybe the One-Way Roller clutches can be cleaned up with a wash of WD-40  and re-lube with Slick50-One Lube or your favorite bearing grease. 

If the One-Way Roller Clutches are severely rusted up replace the Clutch.  What are the first two digits of your serial number?  It will be 10 through 17.   From what I have learned the series 10 and 11 machines use the Upper One-Way roller clutches bearing ring.    All use the Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way roller clutches bearing.   If your machine doesn’t use the upper bearing ring don’t install if you replace the clutch pulley.

When you drop out the clutch pulley and before you clean up anything try this little test.

Holding what I call the Spinner Shaft coupler first picture. Insert that coupler into the Clutch One-Way Roller bearing plate. Now while holding the Spinner Shaft Coupler with one hand as I show in the second pic with your other hand rotate the white bearing plate in the CW direction around the Spinner Shaft Coupler.

The One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate should rotate freely in the CW direction this is the wash/agitate direction. Now rotate the One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate in the CCW direction it should lock up solid. 

Most times the One-Way Roller clutches will slip did it slip for you?   This will cause the agitator shaft to move slightly causing slight tumbler rotation while the wash basket begins to spin up unbalancing the wash load causing big time wash tub swings and those pesky unbalance error codes.

The Control Board sees the TDS analog voltage swings out of design limit and shuts down the spin cycle.   If the TDS was not working as designed the machine would walk across the room and unplug itself or self-destruct.   The Control Board programming will try several attempts to redistribute the wash load and when the magic number of wash load redistribution attempts has been reached the Control Board signals a dC or uC error code to the display.   I believe the FAV9800A signals a text error to the display i.e. “unbalance condition” or something like that…..Good Luck Dick

1st pic

Attached Files



#25 dh1200s

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Posted 04 February 2010 - 11:17 PM

2nd Pic

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#26 Volkemon

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Posted 05 February 2010 - 12:14 AM

WoooHoo!

:party:****THANKS****

 

I was just about to order the $150+ clutch ass'y today...I will review all material in this and the linked post...on my first pre-coffee look it contains much wisdom!!!

 

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#27 Volkemon

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Posted 27 May 2010 - 04:46 AM

Cleaning up unfinished posts...  Took the clutch out, cleaned it, lubed it... no change. Still messing up. It looked fine, however.

Bought a new clutch, installed it...all better. And A&E was telling her it needed a control panel assy, for $300+...NOT!

Onward and Upward!

#28 dh1200s

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Posted 29 May 2010 - 04:32 PM

Volkemon

Just curious before you did the WD-40 clean up of the One-Way Roller Clutches in the Clutch pulley and the upper bearing ring if used.  Did you try the little test I show in the pics to check if the One-Way Roller Clutches lock up solid in the CCW direction?  Those One-Way Roller Clutches slipping as you enter spin cycle cause  agitator shaft rotation causing tumbler rotation and the unbalance errors.

 
At least you did not have to go thru the cost of the A&E parts swap to fix a very common problem with the FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines…….Good job and thanks for the follow up.

 
Watch out for a leaky tub seal down the road.   If you need to replace the Outer Tub bearings you can use 6207-2RS for the series 10 &11 machines. 

If your machine did not use the upper bearing ring the machine will use a One-Way Roller Clutch bearing as part of the Outer Tub bearing assembly but you can replace with standard 6207-2RS bearings and some shims. 

You can make this machine last a very long time with a little effort.  On my 1st Outer Tub bearing replacement a series 10 Outer Tub I also replaced the bearings in the Spinner Assembly.  They did not need it I just wanted the hands on.   Good Luck……..Dick



#29 Volkemon

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Posted 29 May 2010 - 05:51 PM

Thanks dh1200s! 

 

I did follow your excellent suggestions, and thought I had it fixed. It still failed under test. I used WD, then carb and choke cleaner to clean. Then a light coat of waterproof grease.

The new clutch came with similar grease installed. But it worked. :)

Onward and Upward!

#30 outofink

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Posted 05 February 2011 - 01:59 AM

I tried the pdf link but it didn't work.
I need a manual too.
pomegranite

#31 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 05 February 2011 - 07:02 AM

16022808 TL NEPTUNE.pdf
link PM'd
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw




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