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Whirlpool frontloader, water keeps running


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9 replies to this topic

#1 TechnicianBrian

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Posted 08 July 2005 - 05:14 AM

Hello all.  Recently I was called out to a Whirlpool frontloader (GHW9100LW0) on a call back from another tech.  The customer insists after running a load, water will continue to enter the drum and resoak the clothes that just went through the spin.  It doesn't do it all the time, and has not done it while I sat and watched.  The previous tech replaced the control board and charged her $134 for his efforts.  I am trying to solve her problem without chucking parts at this thing.  Here are some details -

No visible problem during the diagnostic test cycles.

Customer indicates a slow stream running down the boot from the fill tube.

If she catches it running, it stops when she unplugs the machine, and restarts when plugged in.

It has been known to half fill the tub if left for several days.

It doesn't do it all the time, and sometimes just enough to get the clothes wet again.

Water valves ohm out perfect. 

Water pressure seems fine, and no other leaking has occured.

No fault codes have occured during the whole process.

The drain motor was replaced 5 weeks ago due to a failed impeller according to the tech.

I am leaning toward replacement of the fill valves, but she is parts shy at this point (afterall, I am the fourth person out there) and doesn't want to keep throwing money at it.  I am returning next week after she has a chance to do some more loads and make sure she is clear in her mind what she is seeing.

Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

Brian

 

 


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#2 Pegi

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Posted 08 July 2005 - 05:25 AM

We have seen this in the Duets and replacing the fill valve solved the problem, the plunger was not seating all of the way, sometimes.  Do not imagine this washer would be much different.  However, it stopping when she unplugged the machine makes one pause about the valve.  Sounds like something could be feeding low voltage to the valve sometimes also.  Take your volt stick to see if there is any feeding the valve when the washer is off, if so trace it back to the source. 
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#3 Mad Mac

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Posted 08 July 2005 - 05:34 AM

http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Whirlpool/NDOHQFPJ.gif

 

Which board was replaced previously? User interface (item 2) or control board (item 15). Strikes me that the valves are getting some kind of power when they shouldn't be (stops water flow when unplugged). Like you say, we need a better handle on what's going on here. I'd have been inclined to go down the same road as you, go back in a few days and get more info on what's happening.

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#4 The Seven

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Posted 08 July 2005 - 06:04 AM

From circuit diagram of the control unit of Duet, they use "triac" to switch the inlet valves. "Triac" is a power electronic switch that has a small amount of leakage current when it is in OFF-state. The higher the ambient temperature, the higher is the leakage current. At a "high" ambient temperature, some poor "triac" could have a "high" leakage current that could "hold" the valve OPEN.

When user unplugs the washer, the leakage current will be zero and the valve will return to CLOSE. When she plugs it back again, the valve will remain CLOSE because the leakage current is not enough to OPEN it.

The only remedy is
a) to replace the control unit, hoping the unit have better "triac" and/or
b) to replace the inlet valve, hoping the leakage current of the "triac" will not hold the valve OPEN.

The Seven

#5 Pegi

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Posted 08 July 2005 - 06:16 AM

"and restarts when plugged in." States the water starts running in again when plugged back in.

" the valve will remain CLOSE because the leakage current is not enough to OPEN it."  Could this still be enough voltage to re-open it when it is plugged back in at the same rate???



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#6 The Seven

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Posted 08 July 2005 - 12:45 PM

Triac could sometimes turn ON momentarily by voltage spikes during plug-in or switch on. This momentary ON could in-turn energize the valve at a full voltage for that short period and then the valve is held OPEN by the "high leakage current" of that poor triac.

If the triac is "poor", this may happen intermittently because the leakage current increases with ambient temperature.
The Seven

#7 Mad Mac

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Posted 08 July 2005 - 12:50 PM

Yet again..

"Electronics and water don't mix"

Wally Anderson (1947 - 2005)

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#8 TechnicianBrian

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Posted 08 July 2005 - 06:35 PM

It was the control board that was replaced by the previous tech.  I am still inclined to replace the valves as they are the constant in this eqation.  I thought about the triac idea, but figured the chances of both boards being bad was slim.  And the customer said it stoped running when the machine was unplugged, but I am leaning toward her being mistaken in her observations.  That is part of the reason we are waiting a few more days, so she can get a better handle on what she is seeing.  Thanks for all the input.

Brian


#9 nickfixit

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Posted 09 July 2005 - 05:18 AM

I would go for the water valve too. Replacing that valve has ended many repeat service call problems, and the part isn't too expensive.
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#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 09 July 2005 - 07:00 PM

Replace the water inlet valve. Slam dunk.




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