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Very Warm Beer (+Turkey) with very cold Freezer - GE Profile PDS22SBRALSS


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102 replies to this topic

#41 Bob-tech

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Posted 11 April 2009 - 02:20 PM

Hey all,

I'm trying to figure out the GE part number for the shelf. #311 in the photo

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#42 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 11 April 2009 - 03:01 PM

http://www.repaircli...2X11666/1063651
.

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#43 Bob-tech

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Posted 11 April 2009 - 03:36 PM

WR02X11666 - Thats it. Thanks!

#44 Bob-tech

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Posted 11 April 2009 - 05:22 PM

I forgot to ask!
What can I use as a lubricant in the fridge for these plastic vegtable drawers?
Silicone spray?

On the track where the bin and track slide together... all plastic parts.

The glide action now is fairly rough... need to smoothen it up ;)

 

#45 Bob-tech

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 10:30 PM

It's been almost two years, and I think I may have another issue. I was home from work (and was in the fridge), but I don't recall what the temps were. I then left for two hours and came back to find the freezer at -7 and the fridge 55. Should be 0 & 35. I don't recall if the fridge or freezer was shut right... I can only assume they were???
I unplugged the fridge for 2 minutes and then plugged it back in. Numbers read the same. -7/55. In posts back on pages 2&3, you can read how I got the latest board, and changed out the thermistsors.
I'm hoping all that is good.
At one point I did hear the compressor run. And every so often I hear it make this noise that I always hear. It's kind of a "Grrrrrrrr" sound, for about 5 to 8 seconds.... and then you hear plop-plop-plo-plop sound that eventually fades away. I can't describe the sound. It's a sound that has been there since day one. It also sounds like a motorized diverter... or something???
Does anyone know what this sound is?

What is the main reason for the reason to cold and fridge warm?
Thanks,
BD

#46 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 10:50 PM

one reason... if someone left the Fridge open ...
.

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#47 Bob-tech

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 11:07 PM

Hmmm.....
I was reading all my old posts. It almost sounds like I'm running into the same old problem, (Dead Board??)
Defrost isn't working, it's all iced up. With it iced up.... I get no cold air flow blowing up into the fridge section.
It's been a few hous... -6 & 55

I'll bet if I pull the back of the freezer open... it's all iced up.

#48 Bob-tech

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 11:11 PM

My old notes say that the last board I got was a: WR55X10552
In doing searching, I see that might be old now? Latest: WR55X10942

#49 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 11:44 PM

how's the Thermistors ?
http://fixitnow.com/...ed-thermistors/
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

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#50 Bob-tech

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 09:24 AM

I replaced all three with the new version.
Found the fridge at -1 & 34. I'm hoping we just left the fridge or freezer door open.

#51 Bob-tech

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 09:32 PM

Temps back to normal, 0 & 37. I've got a feeling we left a door ajar.
If I don't report back here.... assume that was the issue.
Arigatou

#52 Bob-tech

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Posted 14 January 2012 - 10:09 PM

Alright I'm back. I'm finding the temps wonky again. I make it a habit to confirm doors are shut before I go to bed.
In the morning, I check to see the doors are shut tight before I open. That way I'll know the state of the fridge
if I open the door to find bad temps. So yes, I'm finding temps out again.
The freezer tends be a bit colder at -3 or -4 while the fridge is floating up to 48 or even 57.
I kick the fridge... slam the door. I usually hear the fridge gurgle and start running.
And within 1.5 hrs... the fridge is back to 37. This has been happenng randomly for the past few months.

I have the upgraded circuit board.
Thoughts?

#53 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 06:13 AM

Sounds to me like a faulty cold control, from you description of it seems to work again after kicking it and slaming the door.

The t-stat/cold control can start to get flaky and after the temp is satisfied and the control opens the temp starts to raise and the control should close to start cooling again but the points are either pitted and don't make a good contact or the snap control and bellow that activate it is getting weak and doesn't snap the points closed correctly on call for cooling.

If when in warm not cooling state give the control itself a good wack and if it starts up you can be assured it's a bad cold control.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, 15 January 2012 - 06:13 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
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#54 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 07:50 AM

.. I've been through 3 main boards, and with each board I seem to have a different issue.

what does that suggest ?
.

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#55 Bob-tech

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 09:37 AM

Sounds to me like a faulty cold control, from you description of it seems to work again after kicking it and slaming the door........


Is this part of the freezer or fridge? Could be gunged up or something..???

what does that suggest ?

The fact that I've been through 3 boards... the first 2 don't count.... well. atleast I"m ignoring them... only because Sears
kept bringing the same board. The final board was the newer version with the ground wire mods.

Also, when the boards would blow, Fridge and freezer temps were way up. In this case freezer seems fine.

#56 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 03:55 PM

This unit doesn't have a cold control, per se. It uses NTC sensors. More details here ==> GE Refrigerator Appliantology: Dampers and Thermistors

Each time you've replaced the board, how long before the new problems appears?

When you replaced the thermistors, did you also replace the one on the evaporator? That one is the most troublesome. Also, how did you treat the connections where you spliced in the new thermistors?

#57 Bob-tech

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 08:07 AM

It's been sometime since I changed the board. Over a year?
I'm familiar with your posts about the thermistors and if you go to page 2 of this topic you will see detailed photos of me changing 3 of them.
2 in the freezer, and one in the fridge. When they were replaced they were soldered in. Connections have to layers of heatshrink, and the final
connections were covered in RTV.

Is there a damper in my unit? Or just that fan in the freezer blowing cold air up? My assumptions are:
1. The fan blowing cold air up into the fridge is intermittent. (Or if there is a damper.... it's faulty.)
2. The evap is over frosted (defrost not happening), and with an over frosted evap, no air can move up into the fridge.

#58 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 10:40 AM

I'm familiar with your posts about the thermistors and if you go to page 2 of this topic you will see detailed photos of me changing 3 of them.
2 in the freezer, and one in the fridge.


Indeed, you are familiar! I dunno how I missed these photos before but they are most excellent! You are obviously sublime in your skill and have earned a promotion to Sublime Master of Appliantology.

Kanpai! :samurai:

#59 Bob-tech

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 11:19 AM

Arigato :thumbsup:

#60 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 01:18 PM

do you need the 31-9072 service manual ?
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

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