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Very Warm Beer (+Turkey) with very cold Freezer - GE Profile PDS22SBRALSS


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102 replies to this topic

#81 Bob-tech

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 08:53 PM

Aargh!!!!!
I just got home, and no has been here since this morning. Freezer is -1, and fridge is 48. Settings are 0/37.
What is going on??
Is my new board dead already..... or is it the fan on the evaporator?

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#82 Bob-tech

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 08:58 PM

I'm looking at the fridge... compressor is off, and so are the fans, (Condensor & Evap)
But the fridge is making defrost noises.... so I'm assuming it's in defrost mode.
Even if it is.... my fridge should not be at 48. Right?

#83 Bob-tech

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 09:32 PM

Well... Compressor turned on... and now cold air is blasting into the fridge portion through the "Damper assembly".
All the vents have a good stream of cold air billowing through them now. Driving me nuts. :yucky:

#84 Dr Freeze 40

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Posted 18 February 2012 - 12:27 AM

how old is your fridge and when did someone just start replacing boards? has the dts , heater evaporator thermistor all been checked before 1st board?
"A Problem is just a Solution waiting to happen"

#85 Bob-tech

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Posted 18 February 2012 - 09:13 AM

8 years old. First board got replaced when it was like 3 or 4 years old. Sears did it all under warranty. They also performed a GE Engineering ECO where they had to cut wire(s) at one of the boards white connectors, and reroute the earth ground connections to a different point. Rather than at the board. When the fridge died the first time, the freezer and and fridge both got warm. For the last two boards, only the fridge gets warm. I did replace all 3 thermistors with the newly Engineered model. Original GE equipment. See page 2 of this thread. I took some photos of the thermistors I changed along with my connection method. Whats the DTS? I'm drawing a blank here.

#86 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 08:21 PM

Well, we have a 5-page topic going here jam-packed with historical repair info. It would be helpful if you would take a moment and list the actions taken and parts replaced so far in a tight, succinct format so anyone can come along and catch up to speed at a glance. Something like this format would be most expeditious:

ACTIONS:
- blippety blop
- flippety flop
- etc.

PARTS REPLACED:
- thingamabob
- whatchahoozit
- etc.

=============

Separate question: Have you replaced already the temperature control board in the control panel? ==> http://www.repaircli...5X10340/1092847

#87 Bob-tech

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Posted 07 March 2012 - 09:13 PM

2007. Fridge and freezer were found warm. I could not get the fridge to fire up. Sears came in and replaced the board. Wiring changes occured as per GE as well.
April - May 2008 - Fridge found warm, freezer frosted up. Forced defrost a few times.
June 2008 - Got a new board, and replaced thermistors (x3). New style thermistors.
Nov 2011 to Jan 2012 - Fridge randomly found warm. Freezer not frosted up. Freezer temps good.
Feb 4th 2012 - Got a new board (WR55X10942). Fridge fired up, and is running.
Feb 17 2012 - Found Fridge at 48F (set 37). Freezer cold... Fridge sat still for an hour... and then compressor kicked on.
March 7/12. Fridge has been fine since. (Still nervous)

#88 Bob-tech

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 03:59 PM

Separate question: Have you replaced already the temperature control board in the control panel? ==> http://www.repaircli...5X10340/1092847


I've now seen it twice, since my last post, March 7th/12. Freezer cold, -5 or -8, and fridge sitting at 55F. I've tried unplugging the fridge for 5 minutes. No diff.

As for the question about the "temperature control board"... No, I have not changed this. Does this board peform logic?
I thought it was just for display purposes... and read keypad settings. And then serial info back to main board.
**What is the purpose of this board?

#89 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 06:21 PM

Has the Evaporator Fan ever been changed ?
A bad Fan can cause the MotherBoard to fail.

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#90 Bob-tech

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 09:06 PM

Has the Evaporator Fan ever been changed ?


No. Original fan.
The fridge kicked on. Temp was 59F, Freezer was at -8. It's been running for 4 hours. Temp almost normal again.
I should have pulled the fridge out and seen if there was power to the evap fan.

Does the temp board up in the control panel make any logical decisions?
Or is it just a display... and input for temp settings?

#91 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 10:22 PM

just for display and temp settings,
although if it's not sending the serial data correctly, or intermittently ...
If everything else has been replaced .. . (but hasn't been)

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#92 Bob-tech

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Posted 10 April 2012 - 06:56 AM

Last night while I was checking on the fridge, the evap fan was blasting cold air into the fridge. When I opened the fridge, the evap fan shut off.
This is new with the control board I now have. (Feb 4th 2012 - Got a new board (WR55X10942). )
I would press the door switch, and let the fan come back on. After 5 seconds, I would let go of the door switch ("Door open"), and then the fan would shut off.
Wait 5 seconds, and close the switch.... fan back on... etc... I repeated this about 10 times.
Then my fridge beeped at me! Thats the first time I've heard that.
I think my plan is to purchase an evap fan.

When my freezer is reading -8, and the fridge is 55F.... I'm thinking simple logic would say... Open Damper.. Turn on Evap fan.

#93 Bob-tech

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 08:18 AM

Last night Fridge was warm (54F), evap fan not running. I metered J2, pin 3 to 4. Got 0.25V.
According to the GE notes I have, evap fan should be between 4v and 8v, or 12V on high speed.
I pulled apart the freezer, and thats when I noticed the freezer was in defrost. Which could explain why the
evap fan was not running. Later... defrost ends, and everything turns back on. I watch the voltage at the evap connector climb from
0.25v to 12v, and the fan increased with speed. It appears the fan is working. (but for now?). Note: The fridge is intermittent.

I have ordered a new fan.
I'll put that in and see how it goes. For the record, that is a new board, thermistors, and now the fan.
I hope this works.

#94 Bob-tech

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 08:19 PM

On April 17th 2012. I installed a new evaporator fan. It's been one month since I installed that fan, and the temps have been solid.
The temps always stay within +/-1 degree from the set point. The fridge is definetly running better. At this point, I would say my fridge is back to normal.

What I might do is, put the last circuit board back in and see if the fridge continues to run. I'm thinking that the last board didn't fail.... it was the fan.

#95 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 09:03 PM

worth a try..
If the old MB is bad, it won't ruin the Fan
bui a bad Fan can ruin the MB ...

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#96 Bob-tech

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 05:19 PM

Well, here we are..again..... May 23-2013... and the fridge has messed up again. Just got home, and the fridge is at -4 & 62.

Both doors shut tight.   I am at a loss.

I've been through new boards, thermistors, fans (evap & condensor).

Every once and a while this fridge gets warm... but then fires up and runs fine for weeks.

 

I can't believe it's this hard to design a fridge that works????

Year after year new fridges enter the market... and still we have issues.

 

If my freezer is at -4, and the fridge is at 62... then why doesn't it run the fan and blow cold air up into the fridge???

 

How about an LED on the board that blinks error/fault codes????



#97 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 07:30 PM

Well it's been a year and what was ruled out then can't be ruled out now but I would start  with the fan, as it was your problem last time, then ff thermistors and check damper motor.

 

With regards to error and fault codes, the ge diagnostic aid was designed to do that for many ge models that don't have 5 button displays.  Here is a thread where we talk about using the aid on  a similar model http://appliantology...aid#entry253070


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#98 Bob-tech

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 09:14 PM

When it comes to fans and the control board, I always swapped the parts back in 2 to 3 months later to see if the issue returns.

And it doesn't.

I always seem to have an issue with the fridge at this time of year. When the heat and humidity returns.

The problem has to be simple... it has to be!   I'm wondering if the evap thermistor is not sitting in the right spot.

Or if it's not reading right? I wonder if the evap thermistor starts to drift in value because of the constant temp changes.

Usually it's frozen right?... but then it periodically gets hit with heat during a defrost.

 

I was looking at some photos I took of the freezer, last year, looking at the evap. The thermistor was sitting in large cloud of frost at the top of the evap.

When the freezer goes into defrost mode... what triggers it to shut off?

Is it timed?... or is it reading from the thermistor?

If the frost around the thermistor never melts... then the control board might think it hasn't totally defrosted yet?

If so, does it just wait for the thermistor to read low enough before it does anything?

 

When ever my fridge screws up... and I start tinkering... the fridge always seems to goes into defrost mode.

Which is what it did tonight. I could hear things melting and hunks of ice breaking off.

Then, the fridge kicked in, and temps were back to normal about an hour later.

 

Thoughts?



#99 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 09:18 PM

When it comes to fans and the control board,

I always swapped the parts back in 2 to 3 months later to see if the issue returns.

don't put a bad Fan back in ... It can ruin the MotherBoard


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#100 Bob-tech

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 09:23 PM

don't put a bad Fan back in ... It can ruin the MotherBoard

 

I didn't... I verified it worked first. External power supply, and scoped the tach signal.






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