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DCS range Model RGS-305


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30 replies to this topic

#1 CaptRD

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Posted 22 March 2008 - 04:26 AM

I have cleaned till I'm blue in the face but it is still firing. Good solid sparks at all burners but they just won't stop. Does anyone know where the ignition module is located on this model (DCS  RGS-305) and how to get to it? Or could it be a different part that's bad?


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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 22 March 2008 - 04:54 AM

I couldn't find a diagram for your unit, yet, but this one may be similar:


SPARK MODULE is
#2 in diagram

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#3 Trying to help

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Posted 22 March 2008 - 07:41 AM

Has the unit ever worked correctly prior?  Has it been moved or plugged into a different outlet?

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#4 CaptRD

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Posted 22 March 2008 - 08:06 AM

 It has worked great for the last four years. It did this once before but cleaning fixed the problem. It has not been moved or anything since I installed it.


#5 Trying to help

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Posted 22 March 2008 - 08:24 AM

Cool my Bud drinking friend.  Just checking because an outlet with reversed polarity will do exactly what you are experiencing as well.  

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#6 CaptRD

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Posted 22 March 2008 - 11:37 AM

After further checking, the model number is RGS-305-SS-L if it makes any difference. Also, does the return path from the spark go thru the different parts of the burner assembly. Would it be helpful to sand these parts to make better contact? I sure could use a schematic for this thing.


#7 asteysn2

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Posted 22 March 2008 - 01:46 PM

If all the igniters are sparking "AND" it makes NO DIFFERENCE which burner has been selected AND the polarity is correct, you have a failed REIG module.
The DCS burners (along with a few other brands) have two burners integrated into one burner head; the main burner and the simmer ring. This simmer ring is the annular circumferential groove below the main burner ports.
Remove the large brass nut to gain access below the main burner head, look down into one of the holes that are not in the center, and you will see a small simmer jet or calibrated oriface.
Be sure this oriface is clear. I alway have an oriface cleaning tool (available at a welder's supply)to check these.
The last piece of info however, is pertainent to a condition where the sprking continues with "ONLY" that particular one- of the burners selected.
You will want to see a clean annular flame coming from the simmer ring, where the flame is licking the sparking electrode.
Other possible causes are cracked ceramic on the electrode (allowing the spark to short to the ground), or loose connectors.

Bob
coastalappliances.com
Robert Sankey
Coastal Appliance, Heating & Air
Website: www.coastalappliances.com
email: coastalserve@gmail.com

#8 CaptRD

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Posted 22 March 2008 - 06:09 PM

Bob,

OK, I went to your web site and after reading a bit it seems to me that it is either the
re-ignition module, or a failed spark module. Do you know where I can purchase one or both of these items?

Living in Alaska does have it's drawbacks like the closest DCS repair place is about 550 miles from here.

Thanks for the help,

CaptRD


#9 certified tech group 51

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Posted 23 March 2008 - 02:06 AM

Check item # 9.....switch, has not moved out of location. If switch slipped away from front of panel it could be slightly rotated , in "on" position. Small tabs on switch,  stops rotation when gas valve is rotated to on.


#10 CaptRD

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Posted 23 March 2008 - 05:05 AM

They all spark continously, but only when ANY one of the  control knobs are in the on position.


#11 asteysn2

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Posted 25 March 2008 - 01:39 PM

"They all spark continously, but only when ANY one of the control knobs are in the on position."...

Ok that rules out a knob switch. If one switch had gotten loose (unlikely) or was stuck in the closed position, the unit would be sparking day and night. Since this occurs ONLY when a burner has been selected, AND it makes ABSOLUTELY NO DIFFERENCE which burner is selected, It IS the REIG module. The REIG is AKA the spark module. Difference is that the REIG will start sparking on its own if the flame should go out.
To gain access to it you will need to remove the front control panel (knobs--be careful you dont loose the little "D" clips left on the stem.) There are 4 torx screws at the corners... remove them. There "may" be some push buttons that will need to come off. Im assuming this is a Range and not a Cooktop...
Once the panel is loose, gently lay it down in front of you. If the grease tray slides out, its a good place to rest it.

You have disconnected power before you started all this, haven't you???

Look inside. You will see the REIG module slightly to the left of center (blue plastic case) Remove the 2-3 mounting screws holding it there and slide the module out by going OVER the gas manifold. BE ABSOLUTLY SURE you mark and identify the wires on the RH side so they will go back in the EXACT SAME LOCATION!
Pry the flat molex connector loose on the LH side and remove the module.
If the label on the module is WHITE you have an older inferior part. The new upgraded modules have a YELLOW label.

Replace in reverse

You can get the part here.
Robert Sankey
Coastal Appliance, Heating & Air
Website: www.coastalappliances.com
email: coastalserve@gmail.com

#12 CaptRD

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Posted 30 March 2008 - 01:23 PM

Well I finally got around to working on this thing and the first thing I run into is the knobs won't come off. I pulled and pried but they don't want to slide off. Is there a trick  to getting them off?  Maybe I am not using enough pressure but I don't want to break anything.

Thanks,

CaptRD


#13 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 30 March 2008 - 01:31 PM

it may be similar to this one:

Attached Files


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#14 asteysn2

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Posted 30 March 2008 - 05:20 PM

 The knobs can be hard to remove. They will come off  but you have to be insistant about it.  I usually resort to taking two thin blade screwdrivers under either side of the knob and gently prying it off the stem. You wont need to remove the oven control knob... only the top burners. Be sure that you dont lose the tiny d shaped spring retainers that usually stay on the shaft as the knob is pried away.

Bob
coastalappliances.com

Robert Sankey
Coastal Appliance, Heating & Air
Website: www.coastalappliances.com
email: coastalserve@gmail.com

#15 CaptRD

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Posted 07 April 2008 - 02:41 PM

I did it! No more spark noise. Thanks so much for all the help. It was the re-ignitor module, and for $90.51 and about 10 minutes time, it's fixed.

Thanks again,

CaptRD


#16 dijon

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Posted 06 November 2008 - 03:29 AM

hi, my first post and I have the exact same problem as described above - constant clicking no matter which burner is on. (i've cleaned and swabbed to no avail) Where can I purchase this  replacement REIG module?

Also, my broiler igniter needs replacing as well and I can't find anyone that stocks DCS parts. (oven works fine, broiler no longer turns on, apparently I need the ignite part)

I have the same DCS RGS-305 Gas Range as above.

thanks!


#17 dijon

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Posted 06 November 2008 - 12:07 PM

sorry to reply to my own post but I just discovered the bright yellow un-missable "find parts fast" link at the top of the page! UNFORTUNATELY - they don't seem to carry DCS parts :?. I really need to get a REIG module and a broiler igniter part. Any clue as to where I might get those online?


#18 Pegi

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Posted 06 November 2008 - 12:10 PM

http://www.searspart...ct/index.action

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#19 cyblood

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Posted 08 November 2008 - 04:51 AM

These guys carry DCS parts - just call the toll free number, tell them your model #, and they will help identify the part # for you::

http://www.fisherpaykel.com/customer/


#20 dijon

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Posted 08 November 2008 - 04:55 AM

thanks for that link! now, if I can just be sure, for the DCS RGS-305 gas range - is this the reigniter module that solves this particular problem? (Re-igniter 5-circuit Part#211840) it looks bigger than the one in the diagram shown previously.

Also, if I could trouble you all, could you let me know the part# for the igniter for the broiler? (oven works fine fine but broiler doesn't light up any more)

I'd like to DIY this as it's just out of warranty and I shudder to think at the cost of having someone come in, tell me they need to order parts and then come back...times is tough you know!:)

thanks again.

edit: this reply was in reference to the sears parts direct link - would prices be about the same as the fisher paykal link?







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