12 replies to this topic

[BAKINS50]

My JENN AIR JCD2389GES has been in storage for about a year. I finely got it out and plugged it in and it will not cool. I can hear the fans run, but nothing else; no comp. etc. is there a reset somewhere or is this comp. bad?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

I'd start at the cold control (item 3). These old-style controls use a gas-filled tube sense temperature and are famous for leaking verrrry slowly, eventually becoming stuck open. Unplug, disassemble, and use your meter to check continuity as you rotate the knob shaft on the control.

[RegUS_PatOff]

If the fans are running, the cold control is probably OK.

See if the fans stop when the control is turned to OFF

similar wiring diagram:

Attached Files

•  Page from 16010154 MSD.pdf   69.83K   9 downloads
•  Page from 16010154 MSD.pdf   69.83K   9 downloads

[BAKINS50]

If you are talking about the temp control in the frig., if i slide them to the warm side as far as they will go the fans stay on. I am thinking maybe it might be the relay or the  Run capacitor on the comp.is there a way to check it?

 

[RegUS_PatOff]

Although the warmest setting on the temperature control is still colder that the fridge (room teperature) ...

If you could do some voltage checks on the compressor as shown in the wiring diagram above.

ORANGE = neutral

BLUE = 120v supply

There should be 120v between BLUE and one of the connections on the RUN CAPACITOR (on certain models only)


With the fridge un-plugged:

You could check the resistance of the overload.

You could make sure niether of the compressor's 3 terminals is shorted to it's case.

You could also check the resistance of the compressor windings.



         Common
      /             \

1 - 5 Ω          3 - 11 Ω

  /                      \

Start                   Run



 

Check the resistance across the (removed) PTC device (should be between 3 - 20 OHMS)


 

[BAKINS50]

Thanks I will check it tomorrow[/b]

[BAKINS50]

Although the warmest setting on the temperature control is still colder that the fridge (room teperature) ...

If you could do some voltage checks on the compressor as shown in the wiring diagram above.

ORANGE = neutral

BLUE = 120v supply

There should be 120v between BLUE and one of the connections on the RUN CAPACITOR (on certain models only) THERE IS


With the fridge un-plugged:

You could check the resistance of the overload.

You could make sure niether of the compressor's 3 terminals is shorted to it's case. ARE NOT

You could also check the resistance of the compressor windings.



         Common
      /             \

1 - 5 Ω          3 - 11 Ω

  /                      \

Start                   Run
GOOD                 GOOD


 

Check the resistance across the (removed) PTC device (should be between 3 - 20 OHMS)
GOOD


What next ?

[RegUS_PatOff]

Is the overload switch OK  0 ohms ?

120v is supplied through the overload switch to the Common terminal of the compressor.

The capcitor is connected across the Start & Run terminals.

Neutral is connected to the Run terminal.

During starting, the PTC relay applies the neutral (through it's low internal resistance) to the Start terminal of the compressor.

As the resistance inside the PTC rises, it reduces the neutral connection to the Start terminal.

[BAKINS50]

On the side of my comp. there is a sq. tan box with the blue wire on the bottom,and the orange and white on top. with this removed from the comp. what points should read 0 ohms? If this is the overload switch .

[RegUS_PatOff]

that could be it.

should be only 2 connections 0 ohms...

[BAKINS50]

i'm getting about .5 ohms, this most be the
Problem. thanks for your help.

[RegUS_PatOff]

.5 ohms should be OK

  

[RegUS_PatOff]

One voltmeter lead on Blue (one side of overload)

Other voltmeter lead:

Orange/white (?)  other side of overload  0v

Capacitor Orange 120v

Capacitor White 120v during start