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    • 27 April 2024 02:00 PM Until 03:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in this workshop on all things Appliantological. 
      We have a special session planned for this one. Instead of the usual Show 'n Tell on a technical topic, we're going to post tech sheets in the comments to this Calendar Event (scroll down to see what's posted so far) and ask specific questions that can only be answered by reading the tech sheet. If you at least try to answer the questions beforehand, you'll get a lot more out of it. The tech sheet and the questions are posted in the comments section below.
      Your mission, if you should choose to accept it, is to check out the questions for each one and try to answer them ahead of time. Then come to the Dojo to see how well you did! 
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, April 27 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

New Brivis Wombat Topic


adamjr

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:D

OK so I will start a new thread for my problem

I have a Brivis Wombat 92 it had a faulty controller. 

Being a little experienced, I found a dry joint and fixed it,  But there must be more to it.

Being short of time, and worn out from my cold wife's complaining had decided to procure a replacement controller.

This is a copy from the other Brivis Wombat thread.

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OK I bought a new controller the next day.

The Brivis approved spares distributor is TOTALINE!

They seem to have quite a lot of outlets, one was near work.

They had a replacement controller in stock.

It's a lot more expensive than reflowing dry joints, or even replacing all the transistors.  But a lot quicker and easier.

The controller that came out was a TEK301 by TEKELEK, about 10 years old.

The replacement is a TEK321.

TEKELEK still seem to be trading out of Adelaide, as Tytronics.

They also seem to have outlets and offices in Europe, but I could not find much about the controller anyway.

I will do another post for the replacement process.

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I already had the old controller out.  It is about 4 screws and 8 or so connections.

The replacement controller comes with a cable adapter for the overtemp sensors, they seem to have changed connector type in the later models.

It also comes with a new Mains and Fan cable, but I have a policy of not fixing what ain't broke (unless I can tell it's abuot to).  So they are spare.

It worked out of the box, but some pot twiddling adjustments are recommended in the instructions, especially if it is a cooling / heating system.  Ours is only heating.

This is where I realized my multimeter is really to cheap for this job.

The instructions say to set all the speed pots to min, and adjust the motor voltage.

My meter doesn't respond well if the voltage is not stable.

Also I found with the speed set to min the fan voltage was about 40.  I presume it was not running.  I had to adjust up both the ECON and FAN SPEED pots a little to get any serious voltage on the fan motor.

While doing this I highly recommend turning the gas knob to pilot.  If the fan is stalled or running slow for some time you will likely end up overheating.  Thinking about what you're doing can really pay off.  You may need to leave the gas on until the fan starts, then turn it to pilot.

Well I hope someone finds this useful, and if anyone has an idea about fixing my dead controller let me know.  Otherwise it will sit on the shelf in the garage until I need the space.

Monteiths' celtic is on my shopping list.

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