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Fisher & Paykel GWL10 error code 50


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18 replies to this topic

#1 Bean

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Posted 10 July 2008 - 02:56 AM

Hi. I'm having an issue with my Fisher & Paykel GWL10. I'm getting an error code of 50 for the water valves. I tried the diagnostic procedure listed in the post entitled
When I go into diagnostic mode and push the Wash Temp Up or Wash Temp Down it beeps at me but nothing happens. No water flow at all. The diverter valve test worked and the pump test seemed to work. I've inspected the wiring around the valves and everything seems ok. Could someone please provide any suggestions as to what I can do to fix this? It seems odd that neither the hot nor the cold water is coming through the valves which leads me to believe that the computer is for some reason telling them not to open. Could there be something I need to reset?

Thanks!


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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 10 July 2008 - 04:10 AM

If you had a volt-meter you could check a few things..

or try swaping the Hot & Cold hoses and run the washer...

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#3 Bean

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Posted 10 July 2008 - 04:49 AM

Thanks.  We tried swapping the hot and cold hoses to no avail.    We will try to get a hold of a volt meter today.  Do you have any suggestions on what we should be checking for with the meter?   Thanks for your help.  

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 10 July 2008 - 05:03 AM

24v DC

or

64 OHMS (valve disconected)

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#5 Bean

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Posted 11 July 2008 - 12:39 AM

Ok, here's what I did. Removed the cold water valve, disconnected it from the wiring, touched the probes of the multimeter to where the wires came from. It fluctuated a bit and then settled on about 50. I did the same thing for the hot water valve and it read about 47ish...so, either I'm doing it wrong (the likely possibility) or both are quite low.

I also checked out the DC Voltage. Hot had 24V and Cold had about 9. Not good, I guess.

Thanks.


#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 11 July 2008 - 02:29 AM

are you using an analog OHM meter ?
(if not adjusted correctly before each use)  those OHM readings could be OK

The 24v reading of the Hot Water Valve is good,

the 9v reading of the Cold Valve could be good,

it uses a Digital Proportional Water Valve, and depending on the Selected Wash Water Temperature,
those readings could be OK.

Check the voltage at the Cold Water Valve when set to COLD Wash


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#7 Bean

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Posted 12 July 2008 - 05:11 AM

[user=3641]RegUS_PatOff[/user] - Good call on the Cold Water.    Tried again with it set to Cold wash and got a reading of 24v.

So, its seems that we maybe just need to order new vavles?

Thanks.

 


#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 July 2008 - 06:05 AM

looks like it...

you could try disconnecting the hose output of the Water Valves to see if any water comes out when energozed...

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#9 Bean

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Posted 14 July 2008 - 03:43 AM

We actually had a Repair Guy look at it this morning (since he was already there to look at the microwave which stopped working the day before the washing machine).   He believes the pump blew out which caused the control board to fry which then shorted out the valves.

Does that seem plausible?  I was actually wondering if there were a bad pump, or pump problem if it would automatically shut off the valves.  But then, why wouldn't the error codes indicate a pump problem?

He's talking about ordering a new pump, control board and valves.   Seems like a lot.    Any suggestions?       Thanks!

 

 


#10 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 14 July 2008 - 04:58 AM

On a F&P, a bad pump usually takes out the Board.

I'm not sure of the Valves...

You could try filling the washer up with a hose and see if it'll run, (wash & pump, ect)

 

 

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#11 Bean

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Posted 14 July 2008 - 03:09 PM

To clarify my previous post, he is talking about ordering a pump, a control board and a Diverter valve.  I had assumed he was talking about the hot/cold water valves but he was actually talking about the Diverter valve, according to his work order.  Almost seems like he might be thinking he should order all 3 and see which works?

I'm somewhat stumped by the original error code of 50 (hot/cold water valves) when it may be something else entirely.   

Will try the manual fill-up and see what happens while we wait for our quote.

Thanks.


#12 AccApp

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Posted 14 July 2008 - 03:59 PM

I have seen the GWL 10 boards fail in some pretty crazy ways. If the pump shorts out the board usually goes dead and becomes completely unresponsive. If you are replacing the board it is good insurance to replace the pump as well as the diverter valve. If you are doing all this and paying the repairman his markup you may as well get a new washer.
"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.


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#13 Bean

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 12:28 AM

Thanks.  We're waiting for the quote but we're already researching washers as we suspect we'll end up getting a new one.   Sigh.......

I've read that the pump and the diverter valve aren't too difficult to install, if we were to try and do it ourselves.  What about the control board?


#14 Bean

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 12:53 AM

Sorry for the successive posts but one thing that I'm still confused about is the "blown" control board.    The control panel works (lights up) and the machine tries to run if we start it.    When I hear "blown" control board, I'm under the impression that the machine would be completely unresponsive????    Thanks.

#15 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 02:36 AM

[user=37220]Bean[/user] wrote:

... I'm still confused about is the "blown" control board...

It's sometimes just "blown" in the Pump circuit or the Water Valve circuit (or both), and isn't normally repaired.

Control Board (#2 in diagram) isn't hard to replace, but may be expensive:

GWL10 TOP DECK AND ELECTRONICS Diagram
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#16 Bean

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 05:52 AM

Just got the quote.  $400.   Ouch.

#17 Bean

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Posted 16 July 2008 - 12:43 AM

Sorry, I just can't let this go......  Here's what I did.  Added water until it was about 4 - 5 inches deep in the washer.  Turned on the machine and advanced the cycle all the way to the last stage (spin) and started it up.  There was lots of groaning and slurping for about 5 minutes or so, and eventually it threw that error code 50 (why it needed the water valves for the spin cycle, I don't know), but when I opened the washer up, the water was mostly gone, there was just a thin layer left in the washer itself.  Could this whole mess be caused by a clogged pump, is it worth it to try to remove the pump and see what's in there, or are we just grasping at straws here?   I hate to junk the entire machine and fork over $800 for a new one if its something stupid like that.   Thanks.


#18 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 16 July 2008 - 03:09 AM

so... did the Pump work OK, maybe it's just the Cpld Water Valve.

 

 

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#19 Bean

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Posted 18 July 2008 - 01:48 AM

Thanks for all of your help and suggestions.    With a quote of $400 to fix it and our uncertaintly about the root problem (water valves?  pump?  control board?  diverter valves?), we've finally given up and purchased a new washing machine last night.   Didn't want to sink any more money into this machine at this point.  Thanks again.




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