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patv

Kenmore Washer Spins When It Wants To

18 posts in this topic

Okay, so I've looked through a lot of posts and can't quite find my exact problem.  So, here goes.

I have a Kenmore Elite washer - model #110.22032100 - that's about 2.5 years old. 

It doesn't always spin properly.  Sometimes it spins okay.  Other times it sounds like it's spinning, but when I open the lid there's no movement.  If I manually give the tub a quarter turn in a counterclock-wise direction and then close the lid, it will usually spin again.  (BTW, that manual quarter turn can be very difficult at times.  Sometimes I need to start a manual turn in the clock-wise direction and then quickly reverse to a counterclock-wise direction.)

The other thing I've noticed is that if the spin cycle does work, when it ends (and I'm assuming the brake is being kicked in), there is a huge clunking sound that lasts several seconds until the tub stops spinning.

I checked a few days ago, but I can't remember if there was any issues with agitation.  I'll have to run a couple of loads and check it out again.

Last thing is it seems like this is more of an issue when the tub is more heavily loaded - i.e. a medium or large load of towels or jeans.  A load with a couple of shirts seems to be okay.

Just a WAG, but it seems like something is getting jammed up and I'm freeing it up when I do the manual turn (especially with the c-w turn prior to the cc-w turn) since that's in the opposite direction of the spin cycle.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Pat

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

I should have also noted the following:

1.  It pumps water out fine.

2.  If it doesn't spin, clothes can end up fairly wet.

3.  It runs through the entire wash cycle.

4.  If it does spin properly, the spinning will stop when I lift the lid.

5.  Even if it doesn't spin, when I lift the lid any action that might make you believe it's spinning stops as well.

Pat

 

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See "Whirlpool Chain of Problems", this may be your problem.

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Okay, so I followed the link and ordered the part.  I just finished replacing it and putting everything back together. 

However, when I put it on drain and rinse, the agitator starts to spin in a clockwise motion, but the tub won't spin in that direction.  I can't even hand spin the tub c/w which I could do before the repair.  (It will hand spin counter-c/w.)

So, either it should turn c/w and I put it back together wrong.  Or, it shoud NOT turn c/w and the fact that it did before the repair was an indicator of the original problem.

1.  Should the tub hand spin c-c/w and c/w? 

2.  Did I put it together incorrectly? 

- There are 2 ways the drive block could be put on.  Does it matter which way?

- Did I overtighten the spanner nut?

3.  Any other ideas?

Thanks,

Pat

 

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Well, I ripped it apart again and loosened and then retightened the spanner nut so that it wouldn't be so tight.  I could then move the tub c/w by hand.

I ran a few rinse cycles with no clothes, but increasing amounts of water each time and the machine operated fine.  But then, I put a half load of shirts in and guess what happened.  I opened the lid half way through the first rinse cycle and it wasn't spinning.  (It did agitate okay though.)

I closed the lid to let it start up again.  I waited a few seconds and opened the lid again to find a spinning tub.

I did the same thing during the last rinse cycle and again found that it wasn't spinning, but after I closed the lid the final rinse completed properly and the clothes had no excess wetness.

So, it doesn't appear that the drive block has resolved my problems.  Although the banging when the tub ends a spin cycle seems to have gone away (although I haven't run a full load yet.)

I guess I'm not sure how tight the spanner nut needs to be.  When I took it off the first time, I had to use a hammer on the wrench to loosen it up.  Should it be retightened like that or should I just hand tighten it with the wrench?  Or maybe just hand tighten it without the wrench?

Is it possible that the spanner nut was just too tight to begin with and wasn't allowing the tub to spin properly (and still isn't) because of how tight the nut is?

While I was replacing the drive block, I noticed that the right side of the two tabs sticking up were bend inward a little.  Could this be the issue?  How do I fix it?

What else could the problem be - trans, drive coupler, etc?

Thanks again.

Pat

 

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Hello, my ripped friend.  Please, kick off your sandals and get comfortable while you wait to hear from Master Appliantologist Willie, our resident expert in such mechanical matters.  He usually visits this institution of higher learning in the early hours of your Ameedican morning. 

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[user=229]patv[/user] wrote:

Okay, so I followed the link and ordered the part. I just finished replacing it and putting everything back together.

It would seem obvious that you really didn't carefully read what was in that link or you wouldn't be asking the question about that bent tab.

Is it possible that the spanner nut was just too tight to begin with and wasn't allowing the tub to spin properly (and still isn't) because of how tight the nut is?

While I was replacing the drive block, I noticed that the right side of the two tabs sticking up were bend inward a little. Could this be the issue? How do I fix it?

When you installed the new drive block, did you make sure it was seated down all the way and the tabs sticking up were in the notches in the drive block?

You do need to make sure the spanner nut is good and tight, using the spanner wrench and a large hammer just like you had to do to get it off. If you don't get it tight enough the spin basket will just spin freely on the drive block.

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Yes, when I installed the drive block I did make sure it sat all the way down with the tabs just slightly higher than the top of the block.

Yes, you're right.  I missed the bit about straightening the tabs. 

So, are you saying that if I do that, this should fix the problem? 

Or is it more preventative so that the new drive block doesn't get damaged over time?

If I fix the tabs and the problem still exists, what else might be causing it?

Thanks,

Pat

 

 

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Yes, you're right. I missed the bit about straightening the tabs.

So, are you saying that if I do that, this should fix the problem?

Or is it more preventative so that the new drive block doesn't get damaged over time?

This is preventative so as new drive block doesn't strip out right away again, I thought I explained that in the post I linked you to.

If I fix the tabs and the problem still exists, what else might be causing it?

Don't know if it will fix your problem, It sounds like you have some other problem also, did you find the old drive block stripped out or did you change it just assuming it was bad from that link we sent you to read?

You could have bad spin bearings binding up, or bad clutch or worn brake release cam.

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I definitely got that it was a preventative this to fix the tabs.  I guess I just wasn't sure if it could continue to cause my problem or now.  I did see some damage to the drive block and some metal savings. So, even if it wasn't the problem, it's a good swapout anyway.  Okay.

Well, I agree with you that there's something else going on.  I ran a few loads yesterday and saw something interesting.  As noted before everytime the spin cycle starts, I hear the motor and other internals going, but when I lifted the lid the basket would not be spinning.

The interesting thing is that right after I would lift the lid, I'd hear something mechanical sounding underneath release the basket and it would advance clockwise about 1-2 inches.  I'd then close the lid, wait a few seconds and reopen it.  Everytime I reopened it, the basker would be spinning.

So, it seems like something underneath is definitely binding as you say.

Now, the question is where do I cut my losses.  The mech/elec parts are no longer under warranty, but the gearcase still is for another 30 months (labor at my charge through). 

So, do I try to replace the brake release cam and spin bearings to see if that does it and if not call Sears?  Or do I just call Sears and be done with it?

The spin bearings and brake release cam are probably considered mechanical.  Is that right? 

What kind of time is involved (for a pro not a DIYer like me) in any of these repairs? 

Thanks for all the help.

Pat

 

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NOOOOOOO!!!!!, Don't do anything else. Your machine is now fixed and operating as it should.

What you are describing is the "Neutral Drain" process.

After the machine has been in agitate for about 10 minutes at least, then the motor stops, timer advances to spin, neutral drain is engaged, tub will not spin until the motor stops/pauses for a second or two.

The machine will be in neutral drain/pump out only for about 2 minutes. All the water, even at the highest water level setting should be drained out in 2 minutes.

If you lift the lid before the timer cuts power to the motor for a second or two then this has the same effect as the timer pause and when you close the lid the machine will start the tub spinning.

You've just never noticed this before because you had no reason to set and babyset your machine though a complete cycle and see it do every little process. When that drive block stipped out then you started watching everything and are now noticing this normal operation of the machine and thinking there is still something wrong.

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Well Willie, as much as I wanted you to be right, it didn't work out.  I ran a load and didn't touch the machine until after the finished.  Not one lid lift.  When I finally checked it, the clothes were soaking wet which tells me that it didn't spin during the spin cycle.

So, there's definitely still something going on.  Any ideas?

Thanks,

Pat

 

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The timer should stop after draining the water to engage spin (the "thump"). It sounds like your timer's carrying right on, so you never get out of neutral. Run a cycle, what should happen at "spin" is two minutes of draining, stop with "thump", then start spinning.

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Mac,

I agree that this is what should happen, but it's not what is happening.  I don't think it's a back timer switch because this machine has an electronic panel and no mechanical time.

Any other ideas based on the symptoms described above?

Pat

 

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The only way we're going to get an answer to this is for you to open the console, bypass the lid switch (three pin connector on the right hand side of the top, black/green-yellow and white wires) and run a cycle with the lid up, observing everything that happens. You have a "Catalyst" model which at various times recirculates water into the tub rather than pumping it out - there may be something going on there. Write down everything that happens and report back to us.

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[user=229]patv[/user] wrote:

Mac,

I agree that this is what should happen, but it's not what is happening. I don't think it's a back timer switch because this machine has an electronic panel and no mechanical time.

Any other ideas based on the symptoms described above?

Pat

Obviously it can't be a bad timer switch, it all electronics.

The problem, it's all electronices and you can't push it thru it's cycles faster. If the electronic control isn't giving the pause after the first 2 minutes of pump out then it would seem you have a problem with the electronic controler.

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You probably need a new spin clutch assembly. It sits atop your tranny. The cluch pads get worn out and the spring in the clutch assembly can't exert enough pressure on the little clutch pads to get your load to spin. A temporary fix is to use side cutters and to squeeze between the springs coils in two or three places to expand the springs length a LITTLE bit. Just enough to put pressure on the pads and get your wash load to spin and to get you some clean clothes for work. Don't forget to replace the clutch assembly ASAP though.

John S.

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