GE Profile Performance Refrigerator
Posted 14 April 2005 - 06:25 PM
It looks like the solenoid valve is leaking. (I found this other thread for http://applianceguru...forum1/180.html that had this picture of a solenoid valve).
(I don't know if this is the exact same model, but it looks the same)
I took the back panel off, and the water seems to be coming from this valve. It is really hard to get a good look at, since it is low and tucked pretty well. It didn't appear that it was a specific connection that was leaking, but the valve it self. I may be wrong, it was pretty hard to tell for sure.
Any help would be appreciated. I'm wondering if I need to get a new solenoid valve, and if they are difficult to install. Also, all the water lines are plastic, which I know is bad. Is changing to copper advisable or is that just more work to fix something that isn't broken (the plastic tubes don't seem to be the problem right now).
Posted 14 April 2005 - 06:33 PM
Posted 14 April 2005 - 06:44 PM
Is this valve a real difficult thing to replace?
Thanks again for your help.
Posted 15 April 2005 - 05:14 AM
Posted 16 April 2005 - 12:09 PM
Posted 20 April 2005 - 03:59 PM
Your advice... "All you have to do is push down on the coloured part and the tube will pull out. Similarly, push this part down while re-inserting the tubing, it is designed to hold it once you let it go."
... will be very helpful. THANKS !!!! Back to the suds!
Posted 22 April 2005 - 08:08 AM
Question1: Does the angle of the valves matter? There seemed to be a slight angle to the old bracket.
Question 2: I am only getting 5 out of 8 cubes per cycle... I am assuming I need more water per cycle. Right? How do I adjust?
Question 3: What's the best suds brand for this kind of job... or will any suds do?
Posted 13 May 2005 - 07:51 AM
[size=Jeffrey Immelt,][/size][size=Chairman CEO,][/size][size=G.E. Company,][/size][size=5135 ][/size][size=Easton][/size][size= Turnpike,][/size][size=Fairfield][/size][size=, ][/size][size=CT][/size][size= ][/size][size=06431][/size][size=][/size]
Last week the refrigerator was leaking again. I contacted GE customer service however this time I was only allowed to get a replacement valve at a discounted price. Now that I am fixing the problem myselt, I found that the valve is leaking and the cheap plastic tubing has become brittle and broken. Obviously the repairman a year ago put it too close to the hot condensor. I am planning on splicing in a new tubing since I don't know how to replace the whole tubing.
I am sharing because I believe this is a common problem and GE is aware of all these refrigerator leaks. A class action suit would teach them to design their products better (or perhaps they just don't care and want this "built-in" breakage so people will buy new refrigerators). My last Whirlpool lasted 15 years and the only reason we replaced it was for the kitchen remodel and better efficiency.
Posted 14 May 2005 - 10:40 AM
Jeffrey Immelt, Chairman CEO,GE Company
5135 Easton Turnpike, Fairfield CT 06431
The plastic tubing that runs into the solenoid was so brittle that by simply bending it with your fingers, it just snaps in two. I ended up replacing the whole valve set because the tubing snapped and the end remained inside the valve and it is very difficult to remove the remaining end without ruining the inner gaskets on the valve.
As far as I'm concerned the design is flawed because the plastic tubing runs alongside the hot condensor. My refrigerator was only 5 years old and the plastic tubing was all yellow and burnt.
It probably was done by the last GE repairman about 14 months ago, when he shoved the solenoid assembly back into the refrigerator.
I was wondering if there is a similar electrical problem, (i.e. heat causing the wires to fail) because many of the wires that run into this solenoid, and even the main 110 volt power cord runs awful close to the big hot condesor?
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