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Kenmore 30" Radiant Range .95291992


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14 replies to this topic

#1 clightle

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Posted 18 July 2005 - 02:40 PM

While walking through the house today I notice a glow in the glass door of this Kenmore range.  I looked twice thinking it was a reflection in the glass.  It ended up being the lower heating element glowing red about 3" from the inlet 1" long.  I checked to see if the oven had been on and it hadn't for a few hours.  I turned on to 175 and a beeped in less than 20 seconds saying that it was already pre-heated.  I pulled off the back covers and tested to see if the lower element was getting power when the oven was off.  I used an on/off light bulb meter because my multi-meter is broke.  It was showing power.  Does this mean I am going to have to replace the entire electrical/computer panel?  or should I just take a week long vacation with towels on top the stove after checking my insurance policies?

I checked through 7 pages worth of postings and didn't see a problem like this, so I am sorry if wasting peoples time

Thanks for the help

 

 


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#2 Pegi

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Posted 18 July 2005 - 05:32 PM

Hummmm, I would check to see if the element is grounded, seems like if it had full power to the element the whole thing would be lit up.
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#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 19 July 2005 - 03:33 AM

Verrrrry weird.  Unplug the range, pull out the bake element enough to clip your volt meter leads to its terminals and plug the range back in, see what kind of voltage you're getting there.

#4 clightle

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Posted 19 July 2005 - 05:54 AM

My multimeter is currently broke.  I'll pick up a new one and check the voltage.  Regardless of the voltage though, with the oven turned off there shouldn't be any power should there?  I was getting some voltage when plugged in measured by my cheap light (on/off via bulb) meter.  If it is a grounding issue, what is the fix?  A new element? 

 

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#5 clightle

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Posted 19 July 2005 - 11:44 AM

Still haven't got the multimeter(heading to the store to get one shortly).  I did unplug the heating element from its leads and measured the voltage across these wires.  It showed a light (voltage potential) across these two wires.

#6 clightle

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Posted 19 July 2005 - 02:59 PM

Got the multi meter ...read between the two wires....no voltage.  When plugged it read 90 volts.  It looks like the heating element may have a burn't spot on it.  Would this cause the element to short to ground and cause this problem?  I am at the conclusion that I may need a new element.???

#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 19 July 2005 - 03:36 PM

Ver goot, grasshopper,  you are progressing well.  Now repeat the voltage measurement but with at least one of the leads to the element disconnected.  Report your findings here.

#8 clightle

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Posted 19 July 2005 - 03:50 PM

alrighty master...

 

With yellow lead on and red (connects to power in) off element....yellow (on element) to red wire(off element) = 82 volts, red(off element) to red side of element = 121 volts

With red lead on and yellow lead off ...red to yellow side element = 82 volts, red to yellow wire = 0 volts


#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 21 July 2005 - 02:47 AM

Doesn't matter which lead is connected to the element or not, pick one and stay with it. 

Report the voltage reading from each wire with respect to neutral, that means one of your meter probes is attached to a known neutral point.  Note:  Neutral is not ground-- since we don't know what kind of squirrelly wiring problem you have, make your measurements wrt to neutral and then make a separate pair of measurements wrt ground.  Report them separately.

To summarize: I'm looking for exactly four voltage measurements from you.  One pair wrt neutral, another pair wrt ground.


 

edited for typos


#10 clightle

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Posted 21 July 2005 - 12:49 PM

yellow connection to the element voltage potential to ground is  2 volts

yellow connection to the element voltage potential to incoming black is 118

red connection to the element voltage potential to ground is 120

red connection to the element voltage potential to incoming black is 240


#11 clightle

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Posted 23 July 2005 - 04:23 AM

I would assume that from these numbers I have a 2 volt grounding potential which may have been the cause of the heating element heating when the oven is off.  If this is the case, what is the best way to find and eliminate this ground?  I am thinking of unplugging all of the terminals from the computer and systematically checking each point to each of the different grounds with a continuity meter.  Is there any better method?

#12 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 24 July 2005 - 03:08 AM

Not quite the measurements I was asking for-- you went to the hot wire (black) instead of neutral (white). No matter. Repeat those measurements with the oven turned off, circuit breaker still on, just oven not set to bake.

#13 clightle

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Posted 24 July 2005 - 12:54 PM

Those measurements were with the oven not set to bake.

#14 clightle

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Posted 24 July 2005 - 03:28 PM

I put in the new heating element and it seems to have fixed the problem.  Maybe the burnt through heating element was causing the ground.

#15 Pegi

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Posted 24 July 2005 - 04:52 PM

That is what I suspected from the first, glad it is repaired....;)
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