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Viking VGIC Oven Problems - VGIC3054BSS


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15 replies to this topic

#1 shmonkey

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 07:18 AM

Our free-standing Viking oven purchased new 5 years ago (model VGIC3054BSS) decided to not heat up as well as normal (will cook food, but just takes a lot longer and those fishsticks just won't get crispy).  Additionally there is a slight hint of gas smell in the house when only when we run the oven.  Problem started about a week ago.

Also we've had another longer-term problem with our convection fan.  When I flip the on switch, I can see the fan start to turn (minor deflection only, not spinning), but it just stops - like not enough current in the motor windings or something.

I can make separate threads for each of these problems, but in case they could be related, I grouped them here.

 

Shmonkey

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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 01:50 PM

The gas smell and slow cooking complaints are probably caused by a bad ignitor. You can measure the current draw on the ignitor to tell if it's bad or borderline. More info here:

http://fixitnow.com/...ictorial-guide/


On the convection fan motor, put your volt meter on the power leads to the motor (may be easier to get it from the other end of the power wires) and see if it's losing voltage. If the voltage remains steady but the fan motor stops, the replace the fan motor.

#3 shmonkey

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 07:01 PM

Thanks, I'll try those things.  Before I get going on the ignitor, I just wanted to clarify that the oven "heats", but we just have to turn it up pretty high to get the food to cook "right".  Could this still be an ignitor problem if the burner ignites enough to cook (albeit inefficiently)?

 

Shmonkey

#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 02:02 PM

How long does it take for the oven to fire the burner tube?

Have you measured the current draw on the ignitor?

#5 shmonkey

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 04:04 PM

I accessed the burners to see exactly what was going on and when the burners did not ignite after a few seconds I got nervous and shut the oven off thinking that I did not want the oven to fill with gas and then go "boom".

My thinking was that the oven volume with the burners uncovered is much greater than the smaller volume below the burner access cover and therefore more risky to try igniting.

Am I being paranoid?

I have a multimeter, but not a clamp-on ammeter as shown in your photos.  So I have not yet taken any measurements. 

Shmonkey

#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 04:33 PM

The Oven Gas Safety Valve is designed to open only when the Oven Ignitor reaches a certain Amperage which, because of the Neagtive Temperature Coefficient of the Ignitor,  happens only when the Ignitor reaches a certain Temperature.

This may take 30 - 60 seconds, and another 20 seconds or so for the Gas to reach the now hot Ignitor.


 

 




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#7 shmonkey

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Posted 25 August 2008 - 02:32 PM

Excellent.  That's why I needs me a samurai repair man.  I'll go do my checking now.
Shmonkey

#8 shmonkey

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Posted 30 August 2008 - 07:42 AM

I just tested the ignition timing.  Turned the oven to 350 F and watched for 5 minutes as the dual ignitors both got red hot and the burners did not light.  After 5 minutes of watching nothing happen I shutdown the oven.

I do not have a clamp-on amp meter, but I have a multimeter with probes.  Will it work to disconnect a wire at one end and insert the meter in series to get the reading I need?

I have a post in the enrolled students forum requesting the manuals for this oven which would be most helpful to identify how to get access to the ignitor wires.

Thanks.

Shmonkey

#9 AccApp

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Posted 30 August 2008 - 11:53 PM

Don't bother testing the ignitors, just replace them. Just below the door on the front frame of the unit will be two screws which attach the front access panel to the unit. Remove them and swing the front panel down and out/off. You will then see the wiring to the ignitors and the screws which attach the burners to the front. Some of the older ones had screws attaching the rear of the burner to the back and you will need to remove the oven floor to access those. Remove the burner/ignitor assemblies and replace the ignitors. Be sure to have a calibrated test batch of either Toll House cookie dough or brownie batter ready to go.
"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.


http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm

#10 shmonkey

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Posted 31 August 2008 - 04:14 AM

One more thing...I'm questioning replacement of both ignitors.  Is there some other upstream problem I can test before I do this?  Seems odd that both ignitors would go bad at the same time (or are they in series so if one goes bad, the other appears to be bad as well?).

I'm inclined to want to test something before buying parts.

Shmonkey

#11 Pegi

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Posted 31 August 2008 - 04:32 AM

Igniters are not in series but if one goes bad need to replace both, especially on a viking, one is replaced the other will not work in about two weeks, sounds like yours have gotten weak both at the same time.....if you do not want to buy parts you are not sure you need then you need to obtain a clamp on amp meter and see what each of the igniters are drawing when they are glowing, the amp draw must match the amps printed on the side of the gas valve itself, if it is too low the gas valve will open slowly giving you the gas smell you told about or the valves will not open at all.....you need to do what is suggested by the techs in here after asking for repair suggestions, don"t you think....?? ;)
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#12 shmonkey

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Posted 31 August 2008 - 05:59 AM

Thanks very much (the gas smell was another lingering question that now I don't have to ask about:))

Apologies to all if my additional questions were annoying. 

I have my marching orders now.

Shmonkey

#13 Pegi

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Posted 31 August 2008 - 06:03 AM

:cool:   Great, please keep us updated...;)
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#14 shmonkey

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Posted 06 September 2008 - 04:14 AM

I've been looking on the parts page for the exact Viking ignitors to order. Can anyone advise? All I can tell by looking at the ones I need to replace is that they are a square shape, not round.
Shmonkey

#15 shmonkey

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Posted 06 September 2008 - 05:10 AM

Nevermind.  I reread the article in the initial response and have ordered the universal square ignitor kit.

Thanks!!

Shmonkey

#16 shmonkey

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Posted 13 September 2008 - 08:11 AM

Just wanted to say thanks to all the fine folks who chimed in and got me on the right path (despite all my annoying questions - it's what I do, unfortunately).  The oven is now up and running after replacing both ignitors.  I did hold out until I got my new clamp-on amp meter and measured current in both below 3 amps

If anyone has a copy of the Viking repair manual for this model  - for future reference - I'd appreciate it. 

Thanks again!!!:):):)

Shmonkey




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