Jenn-Air Refrigerator Defrost Assistance
Posted 19 July 2005 - 06:08 PM
I measured the defrost thermostat at 240K ohms both warm and cold. There was no difference if it was placed on a frozen pipe or a warm pipe. Should I read a short when it is placed on a frozen pipe?
I placed some test jumpers to the defrost heater and the heater began to glow with 120VAC on it.
I went to measure voltages on the wires going to the adaptive defrost module and I do not have detailed info on the function of each wire. I measured 120VAC on the yellow wire and around 50VAC on the white/black wire. It is not clear if there should be a neutral wire going to the defrost heater.
I am trying to determine if my defrost thermostat or adaptive defrost module is bad. Any help would be appreciative.
Posted 19 July 2005 - 06:14 PM
Posted 20 July 2005 - 03:18 AM
The first problem is that the defrost thermostat does not close when placed on a frozen pipe.
The second problem is when I jumpered the defrost thermostat the defrost heater did not come on since neither of the two wires from the adaptive defrost module to the defrost heater went to neutral.
I will force the adaptive defrost module into test mode tonight and see if the defrost heater powers up.
Is the defrost thermostat available as a seperate part or does it come with the defrost heater? When I put 120V to the defrost heater direct it glowed so I don't need to replace the heater just the thermostat.
Posted 20 July 2005 - 04:31 AM
I will be able to determine if the adaptive defrost module is working by putting a jumper across my defective defrost thermostat and forcing the adaptive defrost module in the test mode. The defrost heater should fire up and the compressor should power down during the defrost cycle.
The question remains can I purchase just the defrost thermostat without the defrost heater?
Posted 20 July 2005 - 03:38 PM
Maytag part # 61006199
Posted 21 July 2005 - 01:30 AM
But, it makes it kind of difficult to help when no model numbers are supplied......
If you bypass the defrost terminator as you mentioned that you are going to try, then if the ADC is working correctly then all should work when put into test mode.
You say you put the defrost terminator against a frozen pipe to check, maybe this wasn't enough to close the terminator. It would be best to put the terminator in a known working freezer to make sure it is cold enough, (not hooked up just leave in freezer long enough to be sure it colder then 5-10degrees). The 240K ohms you are reading on the terminator is a resistor built into the terminator so as when it opens it can still supply the lower voltage to the ADC - I believe that is where the 50volts is coming from on the white/black wire to the ADC.
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
Posted 21 July 2005 - 03:40 AM
The defrost thermostat apperently comes with the heater on my model because they did not include spade terminals to seperate the two. I would consider splicing in a seperate terminator if I knew the open & close temperatures.
As it turns out when I put everything back together recently, I secured the terminator to the copper pipe by squeezing the pipe clamp together a bit. When I got home from work the defrost cycle was working properly.
As you suggested William, I may of not had the terminator against a cold enough pipe or not on a cold pipe long enough.
Another note when I went to measure voltages on the ADC, I was getting inconsistant results. When I remove the ADC module I noticed that the board is coated to protect it from moisture. The coating is also present on the pins from the connector to the circuit board. I did confirm that the ADC is switching the neutral wire between the defrost heater and the compressor to allow only one or the other to be powered. Both the ADC and defrost thermostat must occur to initiate the defrost cycle since the defrost thermostat provides the 120V to the heater and the ADC provides the connection to the neutral.
Thanks for all the helpful suggestions.
Posted 21 July 2005 - 04:27 AM
Posted 22 July 2005 - 12:09 AM
This is the first time I've found the defrost terminator not listed as a seperate available part.
Although a very reasonalbe price for both parts together
Defrost heater & thermostat assembly $33.40 CLICK HERE
It sounds like maybe you just had a bad connection somewhere and by taking it all apart and cleaning connections you've solved your problem.
As far as I am aware of you will have problems if you could find the open and close temps and replaced the terminator with a generic one. The standard generic defrost terminators don't have the resistor in them to give the circuit through the terminator when it opens. I believe without the terminator with a resistor in it the first time the unit went into defrost when the terminator opened then the box would be dead and never go back into run mode because the ADC would not be getting the low voltage feedback through the defrost terminator.
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
Posted 13 August 2005 - 08:54 AM
Save yourself some grief. I had a similar issue with my Maytag. I tested voltages, OHMs, etc, eventually I said why am I doing this? The family is complaining that the fridge doesn't work, my wife actually moved the groceries into my beer fridge! It was too stressful. I ended up replacing the ADC the defrost terminator and heater (one unit). Only had to endure the week shipping time. Now I'm back to enjoying worry free cold beers after a hards day work.
After several weeks of a trouble free cold fridge, it went out. I ordered the defrost terminator/heater from repairclinic, several days later it arrived and took me only 10 minutes to install. Hopefully my warm beer days are over for awhile.
I was also tired of moving the food to the beer fridge however in my case I can subsitute Jack Daniels for cold beer.
Many thanks for all the helpfull advice, it was very much appreciated.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users