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5 replies to this topic

#1 poily

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Posted 05 September 2008 - 08:00 AM

:? bought a new erc for range, not the same wiring configuration as the old one, breads arisen need help fast


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#2 jambatt

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Posted 05 September 2008 - 01:16 PM

Can you post wiring diagram?
Don't take life too seriously, none of us get out alive !

#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 05 September 2008 - 03:28 PM

Where did you get that Part Number as a replacement Number ?

Sears & RepairClinic (and other places) don't show WB27T10174 ERC3, but rather WB27T10190 ERC IIIB,

but another place does show WB27T10174 .....


Didn't the new board come with instructions ?

"*Wiring could differ from original, will possibly need to be installed by an appliance repairperson."

That's GE .......


Here's some blogs:  GOOD READING

http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/archive/index.php/t-5673.html

http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/archive/index.php/t-11950.html

http://forums.partse...board-3889.html

 


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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 05 September 2008 - 04:05 PM

from another blog...

Ron Johnson wrote
( from http://www.bobvila.c...T4940.html#4940 )

Take the instructions and the GE 6 pin wiring harness that is provided with the purchase of the Oven/Clock controller and throw them directly into the nearest garbage can!

Unplug the 6 pin plug from the old controller.

Move the white pin from it's END position into the OPEN pin position next to it. (Break off the plastic retainer covering the pins, use a very small screwdriver to release the pin. And simply plug it back into the proper hole. It will just snap into place. This is very easy so don't force it).

Reverse the positions of the Blue and Orange pins on this same 6 pin plug.

Plug it into the new controller. (This reverses the polarity on the door lock motor. If you don't do this you can't open the door to your oven until it reaches 250 degrees inside. Ha! but true!)

The Purple wire from the old controller connects to the top of the relay nearest the transformer. It had a purple dot on my new unit making it obvious.

The lone Yellow wire from the old controller attaches to the top of the only other relay. Mine had a yellow dot.

There are 3 connectors on these two relays. These two wires connect to the two connectors that are parallel to each other.

That third male plug on top of the relay closest the transformer and perpendicular to those last two connectors is your main power IN !

Plug the other multi-lead wiring harness that was provided with the controller into it. Doesn't matter which one. Just pick one that fits.

This harness has one connector that can ONLY connect to the controller.

The other black connectors go onto either of the two remaining connectors on this harness.

Remember if it don't fit don't force it!

Your almost finished!

Take the only remaining white lead and connect it to the last remaining open contact on the new controller.

This is neutral and attaches to the contact next to the 6 pin connector.

Finally you'll be left with two green wires terminating into a female plug.

This attaches to NOTHING.

It is unnecessary for the controller to work but cannot be removed.

You should simply tape the plug over so it can't make contact with anything it shouldn't.

Green is ground but should be treated respectfully.

If you cut and or spliced any wire you will be WRONG.

Just don't do it even though the only part of the instructions that comes with the controller says to cut and splice the sensor wires.

DON'T DO IT!

BINGO...you should be good to go!

Ron Johnson...

(now, was that so hard ?)  :headbang:


Remember from my directions above that the polarity needed to be reversed on the door latch motor! This picture was taken PRIOR to that action therefore the Blue & Orange connections are wrong. Simply reverse them from what's in the picture.

Attached Files


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one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#5 poily

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Posted 06 September 2008 - 01:11 AM

Hi y'all,
I am the supposed parts expert, trying to obtain a new control board for the GE range in question.  When looking up the model number, JSP40WW3WW, I find that the research calls for WB27T10190.  When it came, I dispatched service tech to house to replace it.  The GE part number on "old" control was WB27T10174.  I assumed when told by technician that he had the wrong part, that there was an error in research of the replacement part.  I re-ordered WB27T10174.  When that part came, The service tech told me that that part had the same wiring issues as the WB27T10190.  HERE IS WHAT I DISCOVERED.

WB27T10174, WB27T10190, AND WB27T10417 ARE ALL THE SAME CONTROL!  THE ONLY DIFFERENCES ARE WHAT IS INCLUDED WITH THOSE PARTS IN THE FORM OF "KITS".  Please refer to any Armstrong appliance parts catalog in the GE ERC section.  It is explained there.

c


#6 poily

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Posted 14 September 2008 - 01:44 AM

thanks for the help with hooking up the new clock, works like a champ, poily:D





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