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Fisher Paykel Dish Drawer DD206


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11 replies to this topic

#1 Babo

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Posted 20 July 2005 - 03:10 PM

For the second time in its three year life, our Fisher Paykel DD206 needs a new top drawer gasket.

The first time it became punctured, I believe that the replacemnt cost us something like $ 250.00 to get installed.


"Someone" in our house did it again!

I was able to patch the puncture with some superglue and an inflatable raft patch. It held for about six months, but just recently failed.

How do I replace the gasket?




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#2 APPLIANCE-ASSASSIN

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Posted 20 July 2005 - 03:39 PM

The easiest way is to remove the drawer.  You would have to remove the front panel, disconnect wiring to the board, release the bottom cover of the drawer, then remove drawer slightly to the side. The hose fits right up at the top in a little channel. That part is easy. It just pulls right out and pushes right back in. The part you remove the drawer for is the connection for the tubing. Just remove the hose at connector and plug new one in

#3 ethicalfix

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Posted 20 July 2005 - 08:39 PM

if it is the top drawer that has the problem you can do it without disconnecting the drawer.Take the front panel off then with the drawer open lift the front and push the rails underneat back so the front of the drawer drops down. You can then remove the lid assembly by disconnecting the air tube at the rear left of the cavity and unclipping the lid at the front. Once removed it is very easy to replace the lid seal. Reassembly is simply reversing the process. The part number for the lid seal in NZ is 525878 so I expect it is probably the same elsewhere.

 

If it is the bottom drawer then sadly you will find it takes longer but is best to remove the drawer and then take the lid out.

Remember the simple things.

#4 Kiwi-nadian

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Posted 21 July 2005 - 10:45 AM

Try this thread http://applianceguru...orum1/1208.html , It explains drawer switch replacement, but shows how to take both drawers out.
please help us to help you, http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm

#5 Babo

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Posted 01 August 2005 - 11:59 AM

Excellent! I have now became a master at removing the top drawer. I've replaced the gasket and it now pumps-up quickly and with vigor!

:party:

Now my next issue:

I keep getting U2 (drawer limit switch)errors on this drawer. Ive inspected the switch and it appears fine.

Any suggestions?

#6 ApplianceTerminator

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Posted 01 August 2005 - 03:40 PM

Dont blame the F&p   crew   you know ya sliced it LOL     .....    F&P did make a better model the dd603 ...   just be very careful with what sticks up and put the cutlery face down .... It saves MONEY !!!   Good Luck

#7 ethicalfix

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Posted 01 August 2005 - 10:56 PM

U2 indicates the drawer is being opened during operation. Number of things you can check here. Firstly is the drawer going home fully when you close it. If not check that the harness/hose linkage has not separated in the middle. Next remove the front cover again and locate the right hand harness plug fitting to the bottom of the grey controller R/H front of drawer. On the drawer it will tell you which wires go where. Check the rail or tub switch with the drawer closed to see if you have a circut. If not first place to go is the switch . You say you checked this so next place is to check the wires for a possible break at the base of the link arm. Have seen a lot of the wires break there with the flexing. We also had an issue with the actual switch as well. Lot of the metal levers breaking off.

Try these first and let us know how you get on.

 

Remember the simple things.

#8 Moostafa

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Posted 02 August 2005 - 03:47 AM

Hello, my dyslexic friend. I am not familiar with the DD206... perhaps you meant to type DD602? Ah, yes, in that case, this enlightening tome from our nearly-sober leader, Samurai Appliance Repair Man, will enlighten you on the issue of which our dear friend, Ethicalfix, speaks.

Allahu Akbar!


#9 Babo

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Posted 02 August 2005 - 09:11 AM

[user=45]Moostafa[/user] wrote:

Hello, my dyslexic friend. I am not familiar with the DD206... perhaps you meant to type DD602? Ah, yes, in that case, this enlightening tome from our nearly-sober leader, Samurai Appliance Repair Man, will enlighten you on the issue of which our dear friend, Ethicalfix, speaks.


Yes, I meant DD602!
I'm dyslexic very:P

#10 Babo

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Posted 02 August 2005 - 09:25 AM

[user=2277]ethicalfix[/user] wrote:

U2 indicates the drawer is being opened during operation. Number of things you can check here. Firstly is the drawer going home fully when you close it. If not check that the harness/hose linkage has not separated in the middle. Next remove the front cover again and locate the right hand harness plug fitting to the bottom of the grey controller R/H front of drawer. On the drawer it will tell you which wires go where. Check the rail or tub switch with the drawer closed to see if you have a circut. If not first place to go is the switch . You say you checked this so next place is to check the wires for a possible break at the base of the link arm. Have seen a lot of the wires break there with the flexing. We also had an issue with the actual switch as well. Lot of the metal levers breaking off.


Try these first and let us know how you get on.



Excellent!

PS - If you can't help me I'm gonna start one of these in Boston!

http://www.appliancetoss.com/





#11 Babo

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Posted 03 August 2005 - 10:13 AM

I checked all of the above - curcuit, switch actuation, looked for frayed wires, and found no problems.

I did experiment some.

While the unit was running with the drawer cover off, I pulled the left rail out only about 1/8th", and the U2 error came on immediatly.

Does this indicate that the switch is bad?



#12 Kiwi-nadian

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Posted 03 August 2005 - 10:20 AM

Yes, they do corrode over time, and also the striker on the switch can warp.:cool:
please help us to help you, http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm




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