Jump to content
Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Contact


DISCLOSURE: We may earn a commission when you use one of our coupons/links to make a purchase.
  • Upcoming Events

    • 30 March 2024 02:00 PM Until 03:00 PM
      0  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in this workshop on all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This workshop is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      If you have a specific appliance problem you'd like us to talk about, post it here! We need a problem statement and a PDF of the tech sheet or schematic so we can all see it on screen share. If you have a PDF that isn't already in the File library here at Appliantology, send it to us by attaching it to the contact form. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, March 30 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Bryant split a/c leak


gabvoice2

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have cool air. But my Bryant air handler model FA4ANF042 is gushing water out of a port just above the drainage pipe connection (see photo). The hole, where the water is coming from, seems to be threaded as to connect with a water hose or something. But there are two such holes positioned vertically (see blue plastic cap in picture). Note that my drainage system involves a 30' PVC pipe embedded in the garage's concrete floor

I suppose that one of these two holes is intended to connect a garden hose and apply water pressure to unclog the drainage system. But which one is it? The bottom hole is mostly obstructed by the PVC drain pipe. I could not attach a hose to it without cuting off the PVC drain connector. I don't want to put the whole unit out of commission for the sake of a water leak.

Otherwise what is the standard procedure to flush the drainage system?

Can you help?

post-40372-129045105005_thumb.jpg

post-40372-129045105482_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 9
  • Created
  • Last Reply

THE  upper hole with the blue plug is only used if the air handler is installed upright  .   the other hole in the corner is for another drain pipe , some city codes require two drain pipes to be installed so if the first getys clogged the second one takes over ....... what you need to do is get a 3/4 pvc coulpling and with a lot of towls cut the pvc pipe in half a little way from the unit , you will have a gush if water A BUNCH OF IT !  thats what the towles are for ...... then you need to blow the lines with air , into the air handler and to the drain  , make sure you have flow before you glue the coulpling to the ends you cut to finish the job

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you know where I can get a diagram of the Bryant air handler?

I need to get access to the condensation pan to drop anti-algae tablets in.

I don't have an air compressor to blow the pipes, but

the folks at Home Depot said that these tablets can clear the algae from the drain.

The top door of the handler comes off easily.

However, the bottom door, where the pan should be, seems to be glued with corking paste.

Should  I just throw the tablets through the open drain hole?

What do you think?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you where lied to , the tablets will only prevent the alge and thats not your problem anyway . the coil collects dirt and dust this washed away with the water that collects on the coil , then it goes down the drain and clogges it up ......DIRT IS YOUR PROBLEM  dont get "SOLD" .......  if you can get to where the drain line ends you might try blowing into it with your mouth ? .... but if it works you need to jump back quick or you will have a mouth of full of muddy water . and please dont buy any magic pills !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

NO  dont mess with it . fix the problem you have , that is the clogged drain line .... cleaning the coil is tricky offten i need to drain the freon and disconect the coil to remove it to clean it , other times its just a matter of removeing the return duct , its real easy to mess things up and cost BIG $$$$$$ . just deal with the problem at hand , it should work out to be an easy fix

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Old school techs use dry nitrogen to blow out the drain but you can use  a shop vac. Go outside to where the drain is and use a shop vac on it.. Get a rag and wrap around the pipe and let er suck all that mess out and YES non rinse foaming cooling coil cleaner will work and YES pan pills do work to kill odors in the house and keep the vents from smelling because of that lousy drain.

post-4554-129045105073_thumb.gif

post-4554-129045105518_thumb.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...