Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

  • Announcements

    • Samurai Appliance Repair Man

      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

      Topics with the complete and accurate model number in the topic title will get priority attention. You can validate your model number by entering into the form on this page: http://www.repairclinic.com/?clearLs=true For more help on using Appliantology effectively, please see this page:  
pelletman

Whirlpool Duet Electric Drier PF Code Blows Breaker

27 posts in this topic

Good Evening Everyone,

I have a Whirlpool Duet Electric dryer that my wife informed me stopped working today. When I got home I reset the 30 amp breaker, came up and saw the PF code on the control, hit cancel and tried to start the drier, and it blew the breaker again. Did it one more time, same result. Unstacked the drier and took the top off, removed the back, the drier has a ton of lint in it, some of it looking pretty charred. We are cleaning it now and I will try to determine where the leak is as far as the lint goes, but can anyone tell me where to start to look for the cause of the short? I do have an ohm meter and am fairly handy... Thanks for your help!

OK, I just did the diagnostic testing, it went through all the primary tests OK. When I did the additional tests: Open dryer door the dryer DID NOT beep and nothing changed in the display, I can't locate a sensing keypad, just an LED light, close the door, hit start, it blows the breaker. Do I have a problem with the door switch shorting? Bad motor? Any way I can check this stuff? Thanks~!

I just checked the switch with an ohm meter, it checks fine. I do get continuity between the white wire and the blue wire even when I separate them at the plug, in other words, the switch is out of the equation, and it test between the white and the blue, and I get continuity. Is this normal or maybe a board problem?

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

turn it to no heat and see if it trips the breaker. problem could be in the heat circuit like the element shorted to ground

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just did that prior to reading your post.  It still popped the breaker.  ANy other ideas?  I appreciate the help...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You said some of the lint was charred. Take a close look at any wiring that may have been melted in the charred area.

If it is still tripping the breaker when the heating circuit is not energized then follow the motor circuit. Pull out the Multimeter and check parts of the circuit at a time disconnecting wiring and verify resistance to ground. Dead shorts can be difficult to find within wiring harnesses.

Good Luck

MrFixit

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply!   I don't think the charred lint has much to do with a shorted wire, but I'll check.  I think it is charred because of the heating element...  I would think the answer I am looking for is why does the door not beep when it is opened in the test mode..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check the wires going to the door switch, make sure they haven't rubbed on the drum anywhere and shorted, (I've seen many times when the clips that hold the wires away from the drum fall off, the wires can rub against the drum and wear thru).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have unplugged the wires totally and I still get the blown breaker..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

[user=1279]pelletman[/user] wrote:

I have unplugged the wires totally and I still get the blown breaker..

right away, or does the Motor turn at all, hum, ect ?

Try it with the Motor un-plugged.

GEW9200LW1 Tech Sheets

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it blows the breaker right away and I think it may hum a bit but I'm not totally sure.  Bad motor has crossed my mind though.  But then I thought, why would that cause the door not to beep when doing the tests?  Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does the Drum Light work  (only with the Door open) ?

Have you tried hitting Start with the Door open ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My wife tells me the light is burnt out, so I can't tell.  Hitting start with the door open blows the breaker.  Thanks for the reply!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try it with the Motor un-plugged ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks!  Is  there a trick to getting the plug off?  I have the front lower panel off and the plug didn't pull off easily.   Shouldn't the switch stop power from getting to the motor if the door is open?  In any event, my next response will be after work as I have to get outta here.  Thanks for the help!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"Shouldn't the switch stop power from getting to the motor if the door is open? "

no. the switch supplies the neutral.

there are two tabs that have to lifted up with a small screwdriver. you can really see the one on the bottom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

[user=1279]pelletman[/user] wrote:

... Shouldn't the switch stop power from getting to the motor if the door is open? ...

NCSU_laundry_tech is correct... The Door Switch disconnects the Neutral to the Motor.

The Motor should stop with the Door open, but the L1 & L2 lines are still connected and could be shorting to the Frame.

pelletman wrote:

 why does the door not beep when it is opened in the test mode..
pelletman wrote:
My wife tells me the light is burnt out, so I can't tell...   Hitting start with the door open blows the breaker. 
Maybe the Door Switch doesn't work correctly (separate problem), that's why the Light won't turn on, and the Dryer tries to start with the Door open ??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply!  I checked the switch according to the manual and it does seem to be working correctly.  I also left the switch unplugged and it still blew the breaker, and I don't think any of the wiring is even touching the frame, but I could chase the brown wire further down the line.  Anyone know where that goes?  Thanks!  Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It could be a bad Breaker.

or take a look at the Controller Board to see if anything is charred

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm kind of doubting the bad breaker theory.  Remember, the door doesn't chime in test mode when open, so I'm kind of thinking that wouldn't have to do with the breaker.  Correct me if I am mistaken please.  thanks!

Do you mean the control board on the left side of the machine where the door switch hooks in?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

as in my prior post, maybe the Door Switch has nothing to do with this new problem and hasn't been working for a long time... (no Drum Light, etc)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That makes sense.  I'll check the motor when I get home

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, I just unplugged the motor and hit the start button and nothing blew.  I am assuming I need a motor because it has a short?  I realize that my next move should be to check the motor.  Do I check it for resistance as in the manual posted above or should I check the windings looking for a short? 

Also the door is now beeping when it opens and closes, maybe I had a bad connection, the bulb is burnt out...

Thanks!  Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check the top of the blower housing,have seen coins shorted from thermal fuse to blower housing causing short

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can you easily turn the Motor manually ?

If OK, try plugging the Motor back in , but remove the Belt.

Also, the L2 Heater Circuit goes through the Motor Centrifugal Switch so it only connects the Heater when the Motor is turning ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can also try to check for a short in the off state by using your meter on the power cord prongs.  I'm not sure of your configuration but here in Canada the two straight flat prongs are the L1 and L2 - test each one to the ground prong and see if your getting resistance. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, here's the final post.  I took the belt off the motor, it turned fine and ran fine.  I put the belt back on and I hit the switch and got a big zap noise and the breaker blew immediately.  I looked in the back towards the front and lo and behold I saw some coins on top of the blower housing, they were shorting the thermal switch (I think - blue wires if I recall correctly)  Thanks for your help everyone! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites