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Frigidaire Icemaker not getting water


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11 replies to this topic

#1 commguy

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Posted 22 July 2005 - 02:35 PM

I have a Frigidaire side-by-side with water filter (model FRS26ZRF).  We moved 4 weeks ago and the icemaker started acting up.  First we had ice forming at the bottom of the freezer.  This led me to pull the drain tube, which was clogged.  I thought I was a genius and had conquered Mt Everest.  I figured the icemaker was slow for some unknown reason.

Now the icemaker cycles but we do not get any water nor do we hear the valve make any noises.  I am also not getting the quick ice buildup in the bottom of the fridge, which makes me think the water was moving but not anymore.  I am inclined to think the valve has busted.  But that is still a $60 part and may not be the problem.  Is there a good way to test the valve properly and ensure that is the culprit before I plunk down my Visa?  I already ensured the line is clear and not frozen.  Can I just switch the power wires from the side that dispenses water in the door and see if that triggers the valve?

Thanks,

Alan


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#2 APPLIANCE-ASSASSIN

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Posted 22 July 2005 - 02:47 PM

Yeah you can do it. Its a 120v valve. Switch them and hit the water dipensor and see if it brings water to the ice maker. If it does, valve is ok.

#3 commguy

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Posted 22 July 2005 - 06:22 PM

Well, I did the switch and the valve worked fine.  I am waiting for a couple cycles to see if I had a stuck valve or vanquished the demons with my mini-exorcism.

But if that turns out to be a bust and the valve is not getting activated, what are my options?  I figure the wiring could be bad or the control system could have failed.  The icemaker does cycle properly and push out ice (if manually seeded with water).  My manual is definitely for dummies and has no test info in it at all.  Are there any easy to moderate test points or indications on the control module?

Thanks,

Alan


#4 Pegi

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Posted 23 July 2005 - 04:55 AM

When you did the switch and the valve gave water, where did it come out, into the ice maker???  If so this would tell us the fill line is not frozen up.  Cycle the ice maker and see if there is 120 volts to the valve from the ice maker.  Could have a bad wire or broken ice maker.
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#5 commguy

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Posted 23 July 2005 - 12:21 PM

I cycled the system and got 120v.  So the wire is good and the control module is working.  I put everything back into the original configuration and manually seeded the mold.  The path is clear and water gets to the mold when I hook up the door dispenser and manually fill the mold.  I checked the metal connections on the valve and there is no corrosion.  I checked the plastic housing on the power leads and it is intact.  The wires seem to be fine.

So now I guess I have to see what the system does.  But I am out of ideas.  The only thing left to do is snip the power leads and re-terminate them to ensure a good connection.  Or switch the valves and water lines (between the door dispenser and the icemaker) and see if the connector is the problem.

How do I force the system to cycle?  I have been having to wait and that makes troubleshooting difficult.

Thanks,

Alan


#6 Pegi

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Posted 23 July 2005 - 04:03 PM

Grab the ice maker rake and gently but firmly pull it to the right until the ice maker starts running on its own, will go thru a harvest cycle, will take about 5 minutes, the fill cycle will be about 8 seconds right before it stalls for the feeze cycle.  If the fill valve hums but no water enters the valve is bad or the water line is clogged to the ice maker.
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#7 commguy

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Posted 24 July 2005 - 01:45 PM

I finally successfully tested all the scenarios.  The bottom line is that when the icemaker sends voltage to the valve, it is only pushing about 95 volts.  The door dispenser pushes 115.  So is this too low to push/pull the valve plunger out of the way and let water pass?  Can I adjust this or is this a fatal flaw that requires a new control module?

Thanks,

Alan


#8 Pegi

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Posted 24 July 2005 - 01:53 PM

I do not know any way of adjusting the voltage, as a test reverse the wires on the water valve and push on the disp lever to see if water enters the ice maker, this will tell you if the ice maker side of the valve will feed water or not, if it does you have to suspect the ice maker is defective.
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#9 commguy

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Posted 24 July 2005 - 02:40 PM

Pegi,

I have done that a couple times. The door dispenser will trigger the valve with no issues.  The water will flow thru to the icemaker and the thermostat will properly sense when the ice is ready and harvest the ice.  The only thing I can find is a low voltage.  In this day of pull and replace, am I stuck with replacing the entire unit?  Or are there sub-assemblies that I can replace?

Thanks,

Alan


#10 Pegi

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Posted 24 July 2005 - 03:52 PM

There are 3 micro switches in the head of the ice maker, one of them feed the fill valve, might see if this switch is bad..Rer. # 15 are the mocro switches, there are 3 of them

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#11 commguy

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Posted 24 July 2005 - 07:18 PM

Pegi,

Thanks for your help.  I replaced the water valve switch with one from another machine.  It did not fix the problem.  The old switch seems to be working fine, too.  I checked the voltage on the wiring harness and it is good (120v).  So somewhere in the icemaker the voltage is getting dropped.  It could be the thermostat or the motor.  They both appear to affect the voltage on the water valve switch. 

The thermostat seems to be working but could be eating more voltage that it should.  That might explain why it worked for a little while after the move and appeared to fail over the period of a couple weeks. 

Guess I will have to get a new ice maker. 

Alan


#12 FatMan

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Posted 24 July 2005 - 07:43 PM

Hmm Just moved the unit and now it dosn't work. Did you take off the doors to get it threw the doors? If so pop off that hinge cover on the freezer door and check the wiring harness, maybe a wire pulled loose




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