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Kenmore Dryer will not heat in drum


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28 replies to this topic

#1 Krootsie

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Posted 23 July 2005 - 10:15 AM

Hello;

Thanks for helping in advance...we appreciate it...been unemployed, so the funds are not there to hire someone, unless last resort.

Gas dryer, front load, about 6-7 years old. Average 6-8 loads a week for a family of 5.

Symptoms: Dryer runs fine, except that no heat is making it to the drum on all settings(hot to damp dry).

Okay...the dryer blows air out of the exhaust with the pipe connected or disconnected. Took the dryer apart(top and front, and rear vent). Cleaned all lint out of dryer after taking it apart...(there was alot of lint...? How does one guage lint amount? :) ) This problem happened once before a few years ago and it seemed after I cleaned lint out of the dryer case and motor\circuits, it worked.

When I turned the dryer on with the top off, I noticed the glow from the flame where I assume the heating takes place. When I shut the dryer off, took off the front, and felt in the pipe that the burner is, it was hot, so I assume a flame is taking place...but for some reason, the heat is not making it into the drum.

I also reset the circuit on the circuit breaker...read somewhere to try that...I dunno.

Now, last night when I was running it during the testing phase(empty drum), I did feel a bit of slight, slight warmth in the drum. However, as I am "attempting" to dry clothes today...no warmth at all.

I read somewhere that there was 1-2 common house fuses in these dryers, but I cannot seem to find them. Is this correct...that there are fuses? Wrong?

Anyway...PLEASE help and again, really appreciate your time in this matter.

Thanks so much!

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#2 Krootsie

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Posted 23 July 2005 - 10:17 AM

Also...I didn't see it in the post sub-title, but here is the model # and serial #...

M# 417.79042991, S# XD93443117

Thanks!:)

#3 ApplianceTerminator

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Posted 23 July 2005 - 11:31 AM

run it with the vent off   if you feel some heat for the first minute and the airflow  is strong you best bet is to change the valve coils first    not sure of the frigidaire #   but the FSP - whirlpool part is 279834  they sell em here on the site    and I think there like 20 parts     tne new valve coils fit in any model so dont worry that they are whirlpool   ...... just make sure that ya have a flame and test it with the vent OFF   ..... If ya get that flame    clear your vent cause thats most likely what cause the problem anyway  and change the valve coils

#4 Krootsie

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Posted 23 July 2005 - 11:46 AM

thanks for responding...

"newbie" here though...how do i turn the vent off?

i looked for a breakdown or assembly\dissembly manual or parts diagram(what parts go where) for the dryer and cannot seem to find one...is there one online that you can point me to?

i did notice one thing...there was huge amount of lint still remaining inside the drum behind the drumwall that attaches to the rear...it looks like the lint builds up going through the holes after a period of time.

one more thing i wanted to add...we had a few storms through here early last week...but i *think* we used the dryer since then, and none of the computer's, tv's, etc. were affected by lightening...could an electricla surge affect this problem. sounds like it may just a coicidence because the solutions you are "prescribing" may not firt that scenario, yes?

thanks for the input and timely response! people like you and anyone helping people do a great service to mankind...what goes around, comes around, and if you have any computer questions(my area of expertise)...by all means, email me.
:)

#5 Krootsie

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Posted 23 July 2005 - 11:49 AM

duh...you mean run it with the hose ("vent") off the back, yes?...okay...my head was somewhere else when i read your post...not thinking...

yes, before & after i cleaned it, i did that last night & today...very strong air, but no heat...i ran it for 10 minutes and no heat. i ran it wit the vent on also, and the same thing.

does this help?

#6 ApplianceTerminator

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Posted 23 July 2005 - 11:50 AM

No the vent is not a part in the dryer the vent is was connects to the back of the dryer    pull the vent off and run the dryer to test     I made a typo im my last answer    its says    20 parts     thats 20 bucks  .....  sorry 

#7 Krootsie

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Posted 23 July 2005 - 12:05 PM

10-4...

yep...i disconnected the vent and nothing...even checked outside when it was connected and the air blew very stong also.

yeah...when you mentioned 20 parts...i got worried.:)

okay...where would the coils be in the dryer? actually, this has been interesting seeing how it works.

thanks!

#8 ApplianceTerminator

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Posted 23 July 2005 - 12:16 PM

Assuming that the ignitor glows  ....... cause you said earlier that  you felt heat on the chamber when ya took it apart..........Here is a simple test   I believe that you have a temp selector switch on the dryer .......   Okay   so put the temp select switch on AIR DRY and set the timer on Time dry like 45 minutes or so.....   start the dryer   ..... once the dryer is running for like 5 seconds or more  switch the temp select switch from AIR  to Heat   If you hear a click that means that ya have power to the coils   .... so most likely the coils went bad  and just wont open the valve......  Like I said just make sure the ignitor glows bright ..... If you were to actaully see what was happening the ignitor would glow really bright and then you would hear  a click noise and the gas would come out and a nice flame      .... if the gas doesnt come out and that ignitor just fades to dark it most likely About 98%   that the coils are bad   as long as its not something stupid .... like ya turned the gas off ......   its very rare a gas dryer valve is bad   ......

#9 Pegi

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Posted 23 July 2005 - 01:41 PM

The coils are on the top of the gas valve.
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#10 Krootsie

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Posted 24 July 2005 - 04:59 PM

Hello;

Okay...i did exactly like you said, and did not hear a "click".

What i did see is this...with the lights out so it is dark.

I start the dryer with the top off...and in about 3-5 seconds, the flame looks like starts and turns to a bright orange fairly quickly(I cannot see the flame directly, the drum is in the way). The flame continues to burn, until i turn the dryer off...then the flame(glow) takes about 3-5 seconds to disappear.

Does this help?

Thanks.


#11 Pegi

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Posted 24 July 2005 - 06:05 PM

Sounds like the coils on the gas valve need replacing...
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#12 ApplianceTerminator

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Posted 25 July 2005 - 12:47 PM

yeah   coils  gotta second that

#13 Pegi

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Posted 25 July 2005 - 01:22 PM

;)
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#14 Krootsie

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Posted 26 July 2005 - 08:06 AM

Hi folks...

Well...here is the answer to the problem...heat sensor. 

I had a local repairman come out.  I did accomplish quite a bit on the dryer anyway cleaned it & learned how it worked, so all was not lost.  It's just that I HAD to get this fixed that day...per the wife. :)

What he first did is test the coils with a meter, and they all looked fine.  Then he started the dryer with the front off so he could see the flame ignite, it did, then he pulled two wire apart to kill the flame, and had me pull the plug right away.  He said bad sensor and he had one in his truck.

It took him literally 1 minute to find the problem...but he did say that all the stuff I mentioned to him I got from you guys on this discussion board made the diagnosis easier.  And he gave the dryer the once over, and tightened everything, checked the belt, etc...thorough inspection.

He only charged $45(trip charge) + $25 for the part...

Yeah...I would have liked to finish the job, but again, being a "newbie", I did not know how to test & don't even own a volt-meter. 

Thanks for all that helped...I DID learn alot!!!!

Have a great day!

 


#15 Pegi

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Posted 26 July 2005 - 08:51 AM

Cool, thanks for letting us know what the problem was!!!  ;)  Sounds like the heat and glow you saw was the ignitor glowing, however if the flame sensor is welded, cannot cut out to let the ignitor go off you will never get ignition because the gas valve will not open till the ignitor shuts off via the flame switch.  What I was going by is I understood the burner was coming on, which would have indicated bad coils.  
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#16 Lurker_Gordo_*

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Posted 18 December 2005 - 06:43 AM

Hi everyone.  I found this thread searching on my model number.  I am trying to diagnose a very similar problem with the same exact model as the original poster.  Only in my case, the ignighter is definitely working (I see a nice bright orange glow) but it is not igniting anything (i.e. no gas coming out).  I checked all the obvious, made sure gas valve is open, cleaned out the entire machine and vents, and as per some instructions I found, I checked continuity on the sensor and it has continuity (so my problem must not be the same as original poster).

I naievely assumed since the sensor had continuity, the problem must be a bad thermostat, so I spent the $30 for the part and replaced that, which did absolutely nothing to help me  :)

Now that I've found this discussion, I'm thinking my problem must be this "coil" thing a couple experts here mentioned.  Is there some way I can do a test to make sure this is it?  I don't want to keep replacing things that aren't broken  :)

Also - the parts "REPAIR PARTS LIST" manual that came with it lists two items that seem relevant:

5303307291 Coil-secondary

5303307292 Coil Booster

Do I need both of these?  And someone mentioned a different part number here for the coil?  WIll that work for me and which of the above two does that replace? 

Thanks!!  You guys rock!

Gordo

 p.s.  Just to reiterate, the dryer drum is spinning, igniter appears to be working, but no heat is getting to the drum and I took the top and front off and tried running it with the front off and there is no flame in the tube burner.



#17 Lurker_Gordo_*

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Posted 18 December 2005 - 07:02 AM

When it typed in the item numbers I mentioned into repair clinic, it said they replaced that with item: 5303931775  (its now a single part order even though it has both things in it).  Its like $31.  Then I typed in the part number mentioned in this thread, it looks ITENTICAL (also two pieces) but its only $17.  Anyone know if they are interchangeable?  Sure looks like it. 

 


#18 Pegi

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Posted 18 December 2005 - 10:03 AM

Gordo, if the igniter is glowing then cycling back off with no igintion you have 3 possible problems.  First is someone turned the gas off to the dryer, second the coils on top of the gas valve have gotten weak, third you have a bad gas valve.  If you have gas to the dryer the first thing you would hope are weak coils.  These are electro/mechanical parts and are very hard to test.  While we do not ever like to suggest replacing parts untill proved defective this is one time this might be the suggested place to start.
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#19 Lurker_Gordo_*

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Posted 19 December 2005 - 05:07 AM

OK - I ordered new coils.  In the meantime - do you happen to know if its possible that the high temp sensor (same part the original poster in this thread had problems with) could be bad but at the same time have conductivity across it's leads? 

I didn't think the igniter would work/glow if that sensor was bad, but apparently it does (based on original poster).  In fact his igniter not only worked but he was even getting the gas flame - so how would one even test that sensor?

 


#20 Lurker_Gordo_*

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Posted 22 December 2005 - 12:55 PM

Got the new coils today, it was very fast and easy to change them out, and that did the trick.  Working fine now!

 

Thanks.

p.s.  The cheaper ones worked just fine and looked pretty much exactly like the originals.





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