Need tech sheet for GE tfx26kpda
Posted 31 October 2008 - 10:23 AM
Posted 31 October 2008 - 10:50 PM
While the back of the freezer looks okay for now, I was planning on pulling the rear panels today anyway to see if I have a bad defroster. (My last GE fridge needed three defroster repairs inside of two years and that was the only thing that ever went wrong with it.)
I figured a tech sheet might help with the electrical bits of the defroster if it does turn out I have frost buildup.
I hate the durn thing: the defroster has always melted the ice just enough that it fuses together in the rear of the dispenser every couple of weeks, the dispenser flap doesn't seal great, the produce drawers suck, etc... but I hate spending $900+ for a new one even more.
Posted 31 October 2008 - 11:03 PM
Posted 01 November 2008 - 12:03 AM
It has no more frost buildup than usual. It has always had some, but never enough to cause problems (I thought.) Also, it is pretty dry right now here in sunny North Carolina, and I would have thought such a problem would strike during the muggy summer.
You say the dispenser flap isn't sealing "great". Is there frost buildup on the chute? I've seen this many times and it could be bad enough to clog the supply to the FF side.
However, now that I think about it, I supposed that if it had completely stuck open for a little while at one time, that maybe caused too much buildup? I'll just have to see what I can see when I get the back panels off of the freezer compartment.
Approx. where is the duct to the beer compartment on a GE SxS? (No electronic doo-dads... this is an old-style one.) (edit: never mind... found it.)
Posted 01 November 2008 - 02:02 AM
The tips of the tinsel-like coil things were covered with an even, light, sheen of frost, top to bottom. No chill-clogging nasty frost buildup. I pulled the panel behind the icemaker and the duct to the fridge has not a speck of frost on it, so that isn't it.
The coil underneath is fairly clean, so that isn't it either.
The evap fan works.
This is a no-muthaboard GE fridge, so no go there.
Could it be the tstat? If so, do I just pull the access panel, remove the connections and do a continuity check? (closed = chill, open = not-so-chill) The parts diagram shows it connected to a male and female "capilliary locator." I have no idea what those parts do, they are throwing doubt on my idea of just a simple continuity check to verify the tstat.
I humbly beg the masters of appliancetology for advice.
Posted 02 November 2008 - 03:59 AM
If you're having a problem with the thermostat, you will notice that as the box becomes more warm, the unit is not turning on. If in fact you see this occurring, wap the thermostat with the rubber end of your screwdriver. If it kicks on, you know that the thermostat is sticking in the off position.
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