Shorted dishwasher thermostat?
Posted 24 July 2005 - 07:45 PM
Powering back up got a fat spark on left side of the pan and tripped the breaker again. Pulled wires from thermostat and powered up again, and was able cancel cycle and drain machine.
Before I order a new theremostat, is there anything else that could be the problem instead? How hard is it to remove without pulling the unit?
And was it the door seal leaking? Sometimes got a small puddle and sometimes didn't. Never could see where the water was coming from.
Posted 24 July 2005 - 08:01 PM
Google says that's also a Whirlpool dishwasher ... does one OEM the other?
Posted 25 July 2005 - 08:52 AM
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Posted 25 July 2005 - 09:15 AM
... The Samurai Law states, "all leaks are visable" Remove the toe panel, get you a flashlight, run the unit, and it will reveal itself.
Even leaks in the past? Problem is that I can't run the unit with the thermostat/heater element connected because it trips the breaker, and I don't think it'll run past the heat cycle with the thermostat disconnected.
Are thermostat leaks common?
Posted 26 July 2005 - 05:54 PM
Are thermostat leaks common?[/quote]
OK, 5/8 open end wrench gets the thermostat out without having to disconnect and remove the washer. It's got three posts, one of which has a copper cap nut that extends into the basin, and had the white, black, and green leads, and a second post had red and orange leads, and tyhe third post has no connectors. There's lots of mineral buildup around the base of all the posts, and the red electrode has a nice fat arc burn with some molten metal globs obscuring the end of a number stamped in the base of that post: 1NT02F-053. The post with the copper capnut says Malasia and ... L78-25 9131 ... which trails off under some mineral buildup.
I've got a meter handy -- what should I see for resistance across the various leads and across the thermostat terminals? The white-black contacts are closed, and the red-orange contacts are open with respect to each other and ground. The red-orange and black-white leads are open-circuit with respect to each other and to ground. The heater element measure 9.0 and 9.2 ohms single end to double end, and 18.3 ohms across the double-lead end, so I assume the one-lead end is a center-tap.
So here's the question: Did leaking and mineralization on the thermostat cause it to fail, or did a short elsewhere cause the arcing on the thermostat? In other words, if I order the $50 replacement theremostat and install it, with the new one fail because of some other fault?
Posted 27 July 2005 - 01:47 PM
Posted 27 July 2005 - 06:44 PM
... To prove you are worthy of further illumination ... post photographs of your handiwork...
Not by way of proof, but so that others might be illuminated ... I was able to find illumination for my camera:
Posted 29 July 2005 - 07:06 AM
Posted 02 August 2005 - 09:22 AM
Whirlpool makes Whirlpool, KitchenAid, ...
Whirlpool bought out Hobart and the KitchenAid brand, but Whirlpool doesn't seem too interested in supporting pre-Whirlpool KitchenAid washers. All of the onlineline parts sources I've tried list the part (4163588 thermostat) as no longer available or not in stock. The one site that Google found searching on the KUDS220T3 model number actually took my order and sent email confirmation of credit card approval, but then the web order status showed as canceled with no further email notification or answer to my query. A call to the service number got me the parts warehouse that serviced that order site, and the clerk there said out-of-stock, and quoted 2-3 weeks without knowing the part number.
So unless I can adapt a more modern part, or find a warehouse that hasn't been picked clean by online buyers, it looks like I'm screwed.
If I have to replace the dishwasher, I'm inclined to get a GE because I can get an employee purchase deal from them and I had success getting a gas range by that route. Any GE models to avoid?
Posted 03 August 2005 - 03:04 PM
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