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GaiusBlack

JennAir JDS98660AAP slow to heat up

24 posts in this topic

Two months ago I succumbed to the notion that I should let manufacturer's qualified techs fix my range in time for thanksgiving. Well that did not work. So now I am ready to deal with it my self.

The initial problem was the dereaded F1 code on the ERC. After two no shows with appointments with one repair company, I called the repair arm of a national chain. On their first attempt the tech installed an ERC which I later learned was missing the L1 PIN on the board and a two wire connector to the D.L.B. relay. He declared it a "bad part" and ordered a second one. The second tech declared it the wrong part and reordered. On the third attempt, the third tech showed me the difference betwen the parts that had been shipped and the original. While that company arranged for a fourth shipment of "the" part. I contacted Jenn Air, obtained the correct part and replaced it myself. That done, the oven took an hour to reach 350 degrees on bake. With one day to thanksgiving I decided to replace the oven temp sensor. That did not do it. Now that I've learned a couple of lessons, I humbly seek the wisdom of the master. 

By the way the units serial number is 21892985GC. The "incorrect ERC" shipped was part number 7400826. (JennAir said that is the clock for a series 10, and I needed a clock for a "series 17"). The ERC now installed is part number 7400827. 

I suspect an open circuit somewhere. I've checked all connectionn from the pigtaill on, everything "looks good" but clearly that's not enough. 

 

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The previous case seems to have ended well with the installation of the correct ERC. I've got the correct part installed, plus I think I've unnecessarily replaced the temperature sensor. I think you’re telling me to dive in and start testing components with the aid of the tech sheet for the appliance accessible through the hyperlink, right? I'm going to shovel some snow and get a hair cut before tackling this So, if you have a chance to offer a more detailed testing strategy it'd be much appreciated. .

 

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does the bake element glow red during preheat? im assuming not because it takes so long. set the oven for bake and check for 240 volts at the bake element. if you have full voltage bad element, if not you will need to trace the voltage drop.

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So far I haven't received the correct part yet. I'll let you know if it works, but it looks like I'm in the same boat with this Jenn-air stove. I'd appreciate it if you leave a post if you figure out your problem. Does your stove make a tick sound at the clock (assuming it's a relay) while its heating? It's not constant. More like a tick every minute or so.

Thanks. Jim (bootsiebrower)

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Okay. Here is this weekend's progress report. I checked resistance on the bake and broiler elements. The bake element checks at 21 ohms, the broiler at 12ohms. Then I moved to check voltage. Following the trouble-shooting guide I disconnected one side of each element, and checked for voltage at each side. Since I have not seen either element glow red in weeks I expected 120 volts on one side, and nothing on the other. Well, I think I must have misunderstood something.

With the groundside of my meter clipped on the back of the stove I probed for voltage on the "disconnected leads". Each loose lead, one side of the bake element (yellow), and one side of the broiler element (blue), tested at 240 volts. The other side of each did not move the needle.

I traced the two red leads from each, the bake and broiler elements to the DLB switch. I fould power on the other side (the black leads). 

Was my testing proceudre flawed? Is the DLB switch suspect? What did I miss? 

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Check / inspect / tighten the Wires / Nuts at the Main Power Terminal Strip (Dryer unplugged).

There should be 120v between each of the outer terminals to the Center.

With the Element disconnected (and turned ON), you should see 120v on each side to chassis (ground) (and 240v across the Element wires).

Also, there should be 120v from each side (Red / Red) of the DLB Relay Contacts to chassis (ground).

Check the voltage across the DLB Relay Coil (Black / Black).

 

 

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Thanks for the added guidance. Here are the results.

1. Checked / inspected / tried to tighten the Wires / Nuts at the Main Power Terminal Strip.

2. Then checked the voltages.

 - Found 120v between each of the outer terminals to the Center.

 - With the Element disconnected (and turned ON), found 120v on one side of each element to chassis (ground), (blue and yellow wire to chasis ground), and 120v across the Element wires, (yellow to red, and blue to red).

 - Found no voltage from each side (Red / Red) of the DLB Relay Contacts to chassis (ground).

 - Found no voltage across the DLB Relay Coil (Black / Black). Tried each separately to ground and one to the other.

Also, I noticed a slight humming sound from the DLB relay which diminished as I probed   the terminals on it. 

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[user=43114]GaiusBlack[/user] wrote:

... Found no voltage from each side (Red / Red) of the DLB Relay Contacts to chassis (ground).

 - Found no voltage across the DLB Relay Coil (Black / Black). Tried each separately to ground and one to the other...

ahh..., the voltage across the Relay Coil must be DC ... :oops:

If the Wiring Diagram is correct:

The Relay (COM) double Red wires (each) go to the Elements

> The single Red wire on the Relay (N.O.) connects directly to the main Power Teminal Strip (by itself). <

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I can confirm that the wiring diagram is correct, the double Red wires (each) go to the Elements ".  When I test for voltage from the terminal to ground, (with wires connected) I find no voltage there.  

I can also confirm that the single Red wire on the Relay (N.O.) connects directly to the main Power Terminal Strip (by itself)." The connector is shielded so I can only test for voltage after disconnecting it from the relay pin. There I find 120v (wire to ground).  With this single Red wire from the relay pin still disconnected, I find no voltage (Pin to ground), this seems correct since I've disconnected the feed from the Power Terminal Strip. Right?

Finally, I do not know what to do about the voltage across the Relay Coil being DC...

 Do I need to retest these? If so can you detail how?

 

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[user=43114]GaiusBlack[/user] wrote:

... I find no voltage (Pin to ground), this seems correct since I've disconnected the feed from the Power Terminal Strip. Right?

Finally, I do not know what to do about the voltage across the Relay Coil being DC...

 Do I need to retest these? If so can you detail how? 

correct...

set your meter for DC volts and read the voltage across the Coil Black Wires (while the Oven should be on)

probably 24v DC

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Okay, back in town, thanks for sticking with me.

So, volts DC across coil in DLB, (black to black). With oven on and set at 350 degrees, I read 18 VDC with a spike to 24 VDC or so, when a relay in the clock clicks, and almost instantly back to 18 VDC.

12/14/08: One more thought. It seems as if there is some sort of blown fuse somewhere. Is that the role of a "Hi-limit-switch"? In looking at the schematic, it seems like that’s' the one component I have not checked or replaced. I don't see anything "in line" on any of the black wires connected to the L1 feed that (at least on the back) where all other circuits connect so I'm guessing it’s in the run between the clock and the back of the range. Any merit in checking it out? If so, how do I get to it and how do I check it?

12/15/08: After I posted the above last night, I kept on researching, and testing. I've concluded that the "Hi-Limit-Swicth is a thermostat. I don't know how it is tested, but I disconnected it on one side and tested it for continuity. It checked okay.

 

 

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Disconnect both Red Wires from the Relay.

With the Oven ON, check for continuity across the (2) (empty) Relay Terminals (should read 0 OHMS)

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Thanks for getting back to me. To make sure I did this correctly, here is what I did. I disconnected the red wire to the power strip and the double red to the heating elements. With the meter on Ohms, and the oven on bake at 400 degrees I checked for continuity across the terminals, Nothing. "To infinity and beyond . . .” By the way, it is still humming. It's fried isn't it?

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sounds like it...

The Relay could be replaced, but would require soldering,

and finding the correct relay from the part numbers on the Relay ...

When ordering the new Controller Board, make sure you tell them your series number (series 17)

to get the right board.

 

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The "clock" or what I think as the control board has been replaced. The part I think of as fried is the DLB Switch aka the "relay - aux",Part # 74003482.

This appears to connect the L2 power line (single red wire from power strip) to the BR and BA elements (double red), wires feeding the BR and BA elements when actuated by the signal from the control board through the DC circuit. The DLB relay is the one humming. Your thoughts?

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that would be the one... lucky you, cheap fix...

on some models, it's built onto the Controller Board...

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Hello.

Could you tell me where I can find this DLB relay? I just replaced my control board (clock) and unfortunately I still have the same problem. Stove slow to heat.

Thanks,

Jim

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do you have the same model number ?

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oh.. yes...  I remember

I think it's in the Control Panel, near the Electronic Controller

Relay Coil controlled by the (optional) 2-pin Connector on the ERC

click on picture

00150264.jpg

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Thanks for your help. Just ordered it. Guess I'll be grilling this Christmas!

Jim

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Success,

I had some difficulty locating a supplier with the relay in stock. Once I did, they would not ship overnight. Ordered it on December 29th, received it on January 2nd. Not bad considering they would not promise shipping in less than 10 days. (I wonder whether they really had it in stock) Anyway, I installed it about an hour ago, set the oven to 350 degrees, and was there in 10 minutes flat. 

To see if the original "F1" error would reoccur as it had at the 400 degree mark, I raised the temperature to 450 degrees.

Half an hour later all is well. 

Thanks for the help.

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