Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

LG LDS 5811st E1 error code help, and test mode info


  • Please log in to reply
40 replies to this topic

#1 chazman05

chazman05

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 36 posts

Posted 20 December 2008 - 04:04 PM

Okay I have replaced the wash pump already and it did not fix the e1 problem.  I have the drain hose with a high loop in it as noted in service manual.  I ran the test mode but not sure how to utilize it or really get information from it.  What can i do to get this thing working correctly?  I can run the quick wash but it makes a funny sound when the wash pump is running.  Not a mechanical sound but like the motor is spinning too fast and there isnt enough water to move.

Thanks,

Merry Christmas.


Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 grey shrek

grey shrek

    Kohai

  • Sublime Master of Appliantology
  • PipPipPip
  • 411 posts

Posted 20 December 2008 - 04:34 PM

The only info I have says  e1 means not enough water getting into the washer.  I presume from your note that you have water in washer but it doesn't drain?


#3 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 20 December 2008 - 05:33 PM

may not be enough water...

is it an E1 or a 1E error ?

LDS5811 Service Manual


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#4 certified tech group 51

certified tech group 51

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,512 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 22 December 2008 - 01:14 AM

L.G. dishwasher code E1  'leakage error' You will need to remove the d/w from the counter. did you download the manual that Reg US provided? go to page 40, you will see an item called, 'guide assembly'... do you see some gookus ( tech. speak ) in the bottom of the assy,? Now go to page 22 for removal.   You will want to remove the float assy from the rest of the guide assy. Remove the switches, do not try to remove the wires...(they break easy, trust me).  REMEMBER which switch goes where, use your Sharpie that you carry in your tool bag, Same as the two floats, mark which location they come from. Clean out all of that black jello looking stuff (gookus).The floats need to be clean, same as the float assy housing.....Now look down the large hose, clean that out also. This guide assy. is where the water enters the  d/w..The float assy maintains water level.. So all that gookus in the float assy, the water flows across the stuff.........If the float assy is clean, reassemble, plug the lower holes with your thumbs, fill with water slowly, do the floats activate the switch levers? If o.k. reassemble, See note on page 22...  test unit......... I carry a digital camera in the tool bag, this assy with gookus is worth a thousand words ( I forgot to take the picture ).......good luck..keep us posted......... "Merry Christmas to all"                


#5 chazman05

chazman05

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 36 posts

Posted 22 December 2008 - 02:26 AM

I did have some gookus in the float assembly but i had cleaned it out already.  I also cleaned the large hose too.  I noticed from one of your other post that adding some water would help.  I tried this and sure enough it quiets everything down and finishes the cycle.  So the DW is either not getting enough water or pumping too much out.  What do you suggest?  I will double check the float assembly just to make sure its okay.  The switches worked kind of. sometimes they would seem to rise up but not activate switch right away.  Would it help to replace switches or the plastic float assembly?

Thanks, again.

CHaz

Merry Christmas
The last normal mode i ran i did not recieve any error codes.q  Just really noisty until i added extra water.


#6 BrntToast

BrntToast

    fellow,academy of sublime masters of appliantology

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,280 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:i quit drinking the day i woke up nude on the hood of my car with my keys up my butt

Posted 22 December 2008 - 02:02 PM

you say you have a high loop in the drain hose, where is the end of the drain hose? does it go to a sink or through the floor?

maybe the machine is syphoning?

 

The only stupid question is the one not asked

hope i've been helpfull, if you wish to buy Brnt beer kick here


http://brnttoast.googlepages.com/home


feel free to prvt msg frigidaire questions my way

(i dont log in every day)

#7 chazman05

chazman05

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 36 posts

Posted 23 December 2008 - 02:18 AM

The drain hose connect to my garbage disposal, how could i be sure that it wasnt siphoning?

thx again



#8 certified tech group 51

certified tech group 51

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,512 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 23 December 2008 - 03:16 AM

The diagnostic test, how much water is let into the machine. Run the test,  Soil Level at count 315, is the water near the top ridge in the bottom?  If it is, Run the d/w in regular/normal load.  Just as the unit stops filling, open the door, is it at the some level as in the diagnostic test? I also checked the fill valve intake filter, it was clear of debris.....The d/w I worked on, the cleaning of all that gookus and the free movement of the floats fixed my customers complaint. That was apx. 6 weeks ago, I had the customer call on mondays to let me know if the repair is still working, if not I would return and try some thing else...Possibly the micro-switches......  I called L.G. direct, and asked for a service technician and they started me off with a customer service person. I asked for more tecnical information and they connected me thru to the tech dept. I told the tech that I was an independent service provider and that there is no other service people around.. The tech told me where to look and what to do for that fault code, it worked for me..........


#9 certified tech group 51

certified tech group 51

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,512 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 25 December 2008 - 06:34 AM

I put in a new control board in an Asco D/W wednesday, and there was sheet of paper that was the new code for the modifiers.... (so you can modify the D/W to your specifications)...Then I got thinking, Bosch has a hidden modifier that you need to push some buttons to access them.. I wonder, do you think L.G. has one to increase the water level ?


#10 chazman05

chazman05

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 36 posts

Posted 30 December 2008 - 06:20 AM

Thats a good point if anybody else knows more about modifying LG D/W let me know.  As far as the DW i have not had time to pull it out and check floats but it will run fine if you add ~4 large glasses of water.  Not sure on amt ~ 3 qts or so.  When the DW kicks on you hear the water entering the unit but after it allows water in it kicks on the discharge pump.  THink its float related?

Thanks,

Chaz


#11 denrayr

denrayr

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,122 posts

Posted 30 December 2008 - 06:24 AM

As far as i know they dont have any modifiers. i would check the flow meter and the wiring at the bottom of the inner door panel. they have had issues with broken wires at this point.
RedRock Appliance Service

435-773-7838

www.redrockrepair.com

Serving St George and Southern Utah

#12 chazman05

chazman05

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 36 posts

Posted 30 December 2008 - 06:28 AM

No visible broken or burnt wires, Although they were stuck in the black tar like stuff. I have pulled them away and wrapped them in some tape for now.  I see the flow meter but how would you check it to make sure its working properly?  I can see it spinning and see the wire that im guessing detects its revolutions but dont know how to isolate it and test it.

thanks,
chaz


#13 denrayr

denrayr

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,122 posts

Posted 30 December 2008 - 07:07 AM

sorry i had the 1e code in my head, insufficient water fill detected while filling. code e1 is excessive motor rpms due to insufficient water after running. so either the water leaks out during the cycle or it didnt fill with enough from the start.  if you can add water and have the cycle finish correctly then it is not leaking out. certified is pointing you down the right path here. it sounds like the float is preventing proper water fill.
RedRock Appliance Service

435-773-7838

www.redrockrepair.com

Serving St George and Southern Utah

#14 chazman05

chazman05

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 36 posts

Posted 06 January 2009 - 01:07 PM

Wires look fine, i pulled it off but hard to check it out since one end is inclosed.  I could order the part since its only 10 bucks but would like to know if it will fix it since ive already thrown too much money at this DW.  When the unit begins to fill after a few mins the float fills up and kicks on the drain pump then it starts its cycle, but the DW needs more water as its not up to the 2nd rim in the stamped basin. 

Any more ideas would be appreciated.

Pulling my hair out on this one.:yikes:


#15 denrayr

denrayr

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,122 posts

Posted 06 January 2009 - 06:28 PM

did you take the float assembly apart to clean it? i havent had the pleasure of working on the float on one of these. according to the diagram there are two switches built into the float assembly. maybe one of the two is hanging up.
RedRock Appliance Service

435-773-7838

www.redrockrepair.com

Serving St George and Southern Utah

#16 chazman05

chazman05

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 36 posts

Posted 07 January 2009 - 01:18 AM

[user=8]denrayr[/user] wrote:

did you take the float assembly apart to clean it? i havent had the pleasure of working on the float on one of these. according to the diagram there are two switches built into the float assembly. maybe one of the two is hanging up.

yes i took it a part and cleaned  it.  Im wondering what each switch is for?  I know one switch is the drain pump but not sure what the first one is. Can someone help me out?


#17 chazman05

chazman05

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 36 posts

Posted 07 January 2009 - 01:49 AM

ONe more question, i have a pen size hole in the mesh filter.  IS that a big problem?


#18 denrayr

denrayr

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,122 posts

Posted 07 January 2009 - 09:31 AM

as far as i can tell, one switch is a safety switch so if the primary switch fails the second one will trigger the pump. it sounds like the secondary safety switch is triggering too soon.
RedRock Appliance Service

435-773-7838

www.redrockrepair.com

Serving St George and Southern Utah

#19 chazman05

chazman05

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 36 posts

Posted 07 January 2009 - 09:50 AM

Well im not too sure on the design unless there is a flaw in the assembly some how that i dont see.  Basically once the water starts entering the DW it overflows into the float side.  THe first float having a longer arm to activate the switch gets triggered quite quickly but not sure as to what it does. The second float which i think is the emergency drain pump will actiavate after the water begins but takes maybe  minute or so before it activates.  You can trigger the 2nd shorter one and the drain pump immediatly activates as for the other one i dont know what it does or how the logic is used.  More direction or info would be appreciated.

Thanks.


#20 denrayr

denrayr

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,122 posts

Posted 07 January 2009 - 02:21 PM

again i havent had the pleasure of working on the float assembly yet. when the second float activates is the machine still underfilled?
RedRock Appliance Service

435-773-7838

www.redrockrepair.com

Serving St George and Southern Utah




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics