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Removing blower wheel from Frigidaire dryer motor?


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16 replies to this topic

#1 humble flea

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 07:11 AM

Masters,

Is there any simple way to remove the blower wheel from the motor shaft in the FSEB39RGS0 model dryer?

Like spoilt child, blower resists all attempts to remove it from the motor. Even when turned in the correct direction for left hand threaded shaft...

There is something that looks suspicuously like thread locking compound visible at the blower end of the shaft :(

Any suggestions, oh venerable masters?


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#2 Pegi

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 07:16 AM

Hummmm, if it is like the Whirlpool blower wheels we sometimes have to destroy the blower wheel with sharp objects and big hammer to get them off when replacing the motor and then replace the blower wheel also....
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#3 humble flea

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 07:28 AM

I have been gathering my inner calm so as to avoid this temptation :)

Without a better idea I will
- cut the shaft (thanking the Yama Kings that the shaft is soft iron rather than steel)
- remove the blower wheel
- file flats onto the shaft
- wrench and hammer to provide encouragement of obedience


Though there is some risk of seperating the metal sleeve from the nylon blower :shock:

Thanks,
Flea

#4 Pegi

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 07:58 AM

Ok, let us see why we are removing the blower wheel in the first place, is the motor bad???  If so cutting the shaft would be a good idea and then use a vice to hold this shaft to help unscrew the blower wheel off. If the motor is good cutting the shaft would not work as the shaft would them be too short to attach another blower wheel and have it fit into the blower housing, would think??  Yes, the metal threaded thingie in the blower wheel could come loose, but would not be the norm.
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#5 humble flea

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 08:51 AM

Master Pegi,

The sleeve bearing at the back (belt) end of the motor shaft appears to have worn out and the motor will not rotate when the motor is hot and the belt is attached.

This was confirmed by removing the belt and turning the motor. If the shaft was lifted in the direction of the belt pull it becomes increasingly hard to turn.

The inside of the dryer was full of lint and the lint at the motor bearing was saturated in grease. I suspect the bearing dried out. Regreasing the bearing sleeve only had a temporary benefit.

The play at the rear pully was easily detectible and about 1mm

Running the motor briefly without the belt attached caused significant motor vibration.

Flea



#6 Pegi

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 08:58 AM

Well then have nothing to loose cutting the motor shaft to see if you can remove the blower wheel easier with the cut part of the shaft in a vice or something, however you might just have to replace the motor and blower wheel if all else fails.  :whipit:We have to do this in a about every 1 in 20 in the Whirlpool, Kenmore dryers, is why we save the used blower wheels when we strip out the dryers.
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#7 humble flea

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 09:33 AM

Thanks Pegi,


I'll give it a try. The blower assembly is fairly inexpensive ($50 on this site), but the 3 - 4 extra days to get one would be annoying.

At least I can work on this one, not worrying about breaking it.

Thanks,
Flea.


#8 Pegi

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 09:58 AM

Welcome....;)
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#9 APPLIANCE-ASSASSIN

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 02:07 PM

Try a 1 1/4"  socket. Should be the right size for that blower wheel.

#10 nickfixit

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 03:12 PM

and use a 6 point socket for better grip
" Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed"

#11 humble flea

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 03:49 PM

Thanks Masters,

I've cut the offending motor shaft, allowing me to remove the blower wheel(leaving 1 - 2" of shaft for grip).

I'll take it down to Sears (who have 6 point sockets in 1" and 1 1/4" sizes") to make sure I have the right size.

Thanks,
Flea.



#12 humble flea

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 03:50 PM

...Oh, and I'll be careful of monkeys with machine guns :)

#13 humble flea

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 07:48 PM

Yay! The shaft is finally out.

The solution was a 7/8" tall 6-point socket, t-bar and a vice.

It's sort of a hollow victory - by the time I brought the tools and a vice it cost more than a replacement blower.

I just got past the point where I could give in - still, at least I get to keep the tools :D

Thanks for all the help

Flea

#14 Pegi

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Posted 28 July 2005 - 06:31 AM

LOL, sorry it cost so much to get that blower free from that shaft.  We all fight stuff like that every day.  But the main thing is, YOU WON!!  Thanks for letting us know.   ;)
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#15 humble flea

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Posted 28 July 2005 - 07:18 AM

:D

I though it was worth reporting what happened just in case anybody else needs to do it again (especially the socket size)

I was an electronic technician for several years and learnt one very important thing:

If the products don't fear and respect your skills then you will have no end of problems - you can NEVER give in!

After a while they will often fix themselves with only the threat of a screwdriver waved in their direction...

Thanks again Masters,

Flea.

#16 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 29 July 2005 - 03:37 AM

Here's the technique that's used if all goes well:

Posted Image

If that fails, I'll use my versa-pak saws-all to cut through the motor shaft in about 57 seconds.

#17 upallnight

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Posted 09 May 2009 - 02:58 PM

I just use an impact wrench with a six point socket that fits really tight on the plastic blower fan and set the impact to forward since these are left hand threads. Use a pair of vise grip at the pulley end and a couple of quick burst of the impact wrench and the blower fan is off.




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