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Kenmore Washer not agitating Model 110.92380200


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#1 davida

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 08:24 AM

Hello all,

My 10 year old Kenmore Series 80 washer (model 110.92380200) died this morning with a nice loud "CLUNK" in the middle of a rinse cycle (still filled with water).  :(

It drains and fills the tub fine but will not agitate or spin at all.  When in the agitation mode, it makes a higher pitched, constant, whine but the tub sits still. 

I believe that maybe the transmission linkage or clutch may be broken.  Maybe the motor?  I believe that she's on her last leg and since she's been here since the house was built, i don't think it's worth fixing. 

Any opinions would be appreciated as well as any opinions on whether or not the front loading washers are any good compared to the top loading.   Any models recommended? 

Thanks very much.

David


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#2 davida

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 08:33 AM

"Dear Appliance Master,

My washing machine, kenmore model # 110.26912691 had been making a noise that sounds like stripped gears during the spin cycle for about a month before finally totally refusing to do anything except fill and drain.  Due to your expert knowledge, I was able to diagnose and replace a broken coupler.  HOWEVER, now everything is normal UNTIL the water begins to drain.  Previously, the water would drain from the tub before it would start spinning.  Now, it attempts to spin at the beginning of the drain cycle.  While it is doing this, the stripped gear noise is more pronounced and the agitator acts as if the brake is trying to kick in entermittantly.  When the real spin cycle kicks in, the tub spins as usual, with the gear noise even louder and the brake kicking in.  I am presently in the position of pulling my very short hair out.  HELP!"

Note:  the above note was posted by another user regarding a different Kenmore washing machine that exhibited the same "fill and drain only, no agitation" problem that my washer currently has.   I'm wondering if my washer has the same problem with the coupler that his machine had before he fixed it.  Any suggestions?  Thanks. 

David


#3 Pegi

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 08:52 AM

Looks like two different washer model posts here from the same person, might want to let us know what is going on here??/  The 110. 92380200 has a broken coupler and is an easy cheap repair, coupler replacement help here.  The second washer, 110.26912691 sounds like something was not put back together correctly  possibly, please tell us what all you took apart to replace this coupler.
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#4 davida

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 08:59 AM

"Looks like two different washer model posts here from the same person, might want to let us know what is going on here??/  The 110. 92380200 has a broken coupler and is an easy cheap repair, coupler replacement help here.  The second washer, 110.26912691 sounds like something was not put back together correctly  possibly, please tell us what all you took apart to replace this coupler. "

Thank you very much for the feedback.  Sorry about the confusion regarding the 2nd post.  I wanted to see if my machine had a coupler problem as described by another poster.

Dave


#5 Pegi

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 09:03 AM

Yes, this breaks if the washer is overloaded or it just gets worn and tired, like me...LOL   This is an easy repair, just get the coupler and follow the instructions for replacement. ;)
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#6 davida

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 09:33 AM

WOW!  I got the coupler out in about ten minutes flat (had the laptop next to me to confirm with the pictures provided) and now I'm off to the parts store to get my old lady running again!

CLEAN CLOTHES ARE COMING MY WAY AGAIN!!

If I could shake your hand in person, I would.  In the mean time, please accept my sincere thanks and if you're ever in need of anything in the central NJ area, you let me know!

Thanks!

David

:):D:):D:):D


#7 Pegi

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 10:03 AM

Thanks David, and you are very welcome.  :bananadance:
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#8 connjerr

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 10:22 AM

Since this was my first time to do any work to this machine, I attempted to take the back off as I had done to a previous washer, however, I found this was unnecessary after looking closely at the reference pictures.  All I removed was the pump and the motor to get to the coupling.  I reassembled it in the reverse order after giving everything a good cleaning.  The wash cycle works fine after the repair.  The problem starts with the drain and spin.

#9 Pegi

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 10:29 AM

Connjeer, what are you referring to, is this a new topic in this thread???  What problems??
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#10 connjerr

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 10:54 AM

No, not a new topic.  Just trying to clear up a previous question.  A response asked what was taken apart to replace the coupler.  Dave stated in his post that his problem was similar to mine and had asked what I hade done to replace the coupler.  You stated in a response to Dave that it sounded as if something was not put back together properly in my machine (110.26912691) because of the noise.

#11 davida

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 11:16 AM

OK, what the hell is wrong with these new couplers?  It'slike trying to squeeze a triangle thru a circle hole with these little buggers.   Why does it seem like they don't fit too easily?  Do I need to hammer them in? 

 


#12 Pegi

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 11:20 AM

Ok, let us start at the beginning, your washer ran fine, then it would not agitate nor spin, did  drain, but sounded fine.  You replaced the coupler and now you washer is doing what???  What did you take apart when you replaced the coupler. 
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#13 Pegi

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 11:30 AM

David, the new couplers are a tighter, better design, will go on a lot harder.  Take  a 5/8 socket and put in the middle of the coupler around the place where the shaft will come thru, and line it up straight with the shaft. then very gently but firmly tap the coupler on with a hammer itll it is even with the end of the shafts, yes it will be much tighter and be careful not to hit the prongs or get it uneven or off center, might break your new couplers.
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#14 davida

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 11:38 AM

Got it.  I used a 1/2" drive long extension where I could butt the female end of it squarely against the face of the coupler and gently tap the other end with my hammer.    They went on very smoothly and evenly.   I was hoping to get a chance to use my hammer today!  :D

Thanks again!

Dave


#15 Pegi

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 11:41 AM

Cool, got to hit something!!  LOL   Welcome.....:cool:
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#16 davida

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 03:02 PM

ARRGGGHHH!!!

Hey Pegi, something new has happened. 

It seems as if my washer doesn't stop at the correct water level now and continues to fill the tub regardless of the level selected.   When this happened, i noticed that I had forgotten to reinstall the previously disconnected the clear tube from the water level control module (don't ask...I still don't know why I disconnected it).    After I reconnected it, it still seems to fill to the top (and probably over) if I don't manually stop it even though the LOW level is selected.  Any suggestions?  I'm not really sure how that module works to detect the correct water level.

The positive thing is that the tub spins now on the drain cycle but since the water level never reaches the "correct" level, the washer will not agitate although I'm confident that it will.

Thanks again.

David


#17 davida

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 05:09 PM

OK, got it fixed. 

The initial problem was that i had the water level sensor tube from the tub disconnected when I ran the washer.  Obviously, without the tube attached in order for the sensor to detect the various water levels (and associated pressure changes), it just kept filling.

I thought that by reattaching the line, it would work fine right off the bat.  The problem was that I had an existing level of water in the tub when I reattached the tube which threw off the sensor.   I needed to completely empty the tub in order to purge any water to allow air back into the tube at the bottom of the tub.  When the tub empty, and I assume no pressure on the sensor except ambient pressure, the switch starting working again when I began filling it with water.  It stopped at each appropriate water level and the washer began to agitate again!

Thanks again for all the help! 


#18 Pegi

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Posted 27 July 2005 - 05:24 PM

Sorry I just now saw your posts about the overflowing washer, would have told you to re-connect the fill level switch tubing and empty the tub of water to reset the switch, glad you got it figured out.  I do have to get home, fix dinner and take care of the 3 dogs between leaving the shop till I can check the e-mails later in the evening, sorry I missed your problem. 
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#19 Daddy3

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Posted 29 July 2005 - 05:49 AM

I keep seeing on various posts how to repair my Kenmore series 80 washer.

Yet nowhere do I see exactly how to take the shell off and open it to begin with.

How is this done?:(

 


#20 Daddy3

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Posted 29 July 2005 - 06:45 AM

Oh. Nevermind. No wonder it was never posted  how to remove. It reeally was that simple. I even found my problem. The pump is cracked and leaking. Looks easy to replace though. Great site ! Keep it up.

 





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