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rrog

stove eye NOT turning off

7 posts in this topic

I have a rental house that is rented to a family who does not speak English very well.  They simply told me the eye of the stove top did not work.  Since I had fixed my own stove before, I thought I could fix this one as well.  I went to the parts store, bought the parts and installed them.  Once I got the stove eye working (feeling good about myself b/c of the money I had saved by doing it myself), the tenant came in and turned it off... only the eye did NOT turn off.  The switch was in the off position, but the thing was not turning off.  It stayed in the low/medium range of heat.

I then aked if that was the problem he was having and he said yes.  So I figured it must be the switch.  I went back to the parts store for a replacement switch.  I gave them the model number and they gave me the switch.  I replaced that and the thing still will not turn off.  By this time, I was tired and had already spent too much money/time, so I broke down and went and bought a new stove.  The family deserves to have a stove that works and I was a little concerned about the liability thing too.  But I'd really like to fix this one, as I have somewhat of an investment in it!  Has anyone else experienced something like this?

Just to give some information; it's a GE stove (very old), it's the right front burner and the switch (on the back of the stove) is the one on the far right, as I'm looking at the front of the stove.  The other three burners work fine, as does the oven.  Any adivce?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Also, I almost forgot the model number.  The model number for the above-mentioned stove is J BS03 ON1WH.

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Hummmm, usually when the burner will not shut off when the switch is turned off the inf. switch is welded together internally.  Or the knob is not the right one or is on wrong and the off is not really the off position. Check the knob and see if the burner will turn off when in a different position. Since you have replaced the switch would like to ask what else did you replace.  Perhaps something else is grounded like a bare wire to the burner or the burner itself. We do not know what else was replaced before the inf. switch.

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[user=533]Pegi[/user] wrote:

Hummmm, usually when the burner will not shut off when the switch is turned off the inf. switch is welded together internally.  Or the knob is not the right one or is on wrong and the off is not really the off position. Check the knob and see if the burner will turn off when in a different position. Since you have replaced the switch would like to ask what else did you replace.  Perhaps something else is grounded like a bare wire to the burner or the burner itself. We do not know what else was replaced before the inf. switch.

Pardon my ignorance, as I'm new to this site and to home repair in general, but what does "inf." mean?  Inferior?  I double-checked the knob and I think it's on right (both the old and new ones).  I also tried different positions to see if "off" was somewhere else on the knob.  Nothing worked.  And the knob was popping out when it reached the "off" marker.

As far as replacing, I replaced the wiring harness that runs from the switch to the burner and also the burner itself.  When I lifted up the stove lid, I saw that someone had cut the wires and sealed them with electrical tape and tucked them back behind the stove.  I was a little suspicious that they might have done that so it wouldn't work, just so they could get a new stove.  It was only after I got the new burner in place did I realize they cut the wire so it would turn off.  Other than that, I don't know what else has been done to the stove.

As far as the "inf. switch being welded together internally," how do I check this and is this something a novice can repair?  Thanks for the help.

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Inf  stands for infinite   .... Most Infinite switches are wired like this   L1 to H1   L2 To H2   and the fifth wire generally maked as P for pilot which in many cases piggy backs off each other depending if  there is one surface idicator light......    Like peggy said  it sounds like one welded together.... with the switches off and the power off check  that you dont complete a path in the switch as stated above  .... remember when doing continuity checks always remove the wires off the the switch or atleast one of the wires    .......   so on that burner  check between   L1 and H1   and   then   L2 to H2    .... If that switch is in the off position you should not get a path between those items...     Just double check your wiring first   you could have messed it up.......Good Luck please let us know how you make out

 

 

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If you put in a new switch, wiring, and burner, then the range must have a wiring error. Probably something done long before you got there. 

You'll need to check all the wire connections in comparison to the wiring diagram. The power is supplied from L1 and L2, and is "daisy chained" from burner to burner. Someone probably has some terminals switched. Possibly a "one size fits all" aftermarket switch was used and wired wrong.

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More background inf. on inf. switches here.

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Thanks for all the replies.  I haven't had a chance to work on it anymore yet, but I will try what you suggested.  By way of giving more information, there's something I left out of my original post.  When I hooked up the new switch and the burner still wouldn't turn off, I tried unplugging the wires from the new switch: first one, then put that one back, the another, then both, etc.  The burner still did not turn off.  I guess that's when I gave up and decided on a new one.  I'll post more results when I've had a chance to work on it more.

 

Again, Thanks.

Rick

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