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Viking Gas Range (VGSC3664GSS) Oven Doesn't Work


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7 replies to this topic

#1 Southern

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Posted 16 January 2009 - 01:59 PM

My Viking gas range oven quit working the other day.  I went to pre-heat the oven to 400Deg. and it only made it to 350 and died (no more gas out to the burner, cycle light stayed lit).  I tried the boiler and it didn't work either, the module sparked but I could not hear any gas going through the valve.  I even took the bottom plate off and tried to ignite the burner with a lighter.  The burners work fine as does the griddle.

I took off the back panel and had my meter handy.  With the oven control knobs on I measured 120VAC on the yellow wire going to the module which indicates that the selector switches, auto reset switch and thermostat are functioning.  I took off the wires to the solenoid for the gas valve and measured 10VDC.  I measured the solenoid coil resistance (220 Ohms).  The numbers on the coil state 10VDC, 5W, .05A.

I find it hard to believe that both my broiler and oven gas valves went bad.  Could the problem be that there is a plug in the gas line upstream of the oven gas valve maybe in the oven regulator?

Any suggestions are welcome.


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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 16 January 2009 - 02:20 PM

[user=2273]Southern[/user] wrote:

... I took off the wires to the solenoid for the gas valve and measured 10VDC. 

Any suggestions are welcome.

All voltage measurenments should be with the device connected ..
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#3 Southern

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Posted 16 January 2009 - 03:36 PM

[user=3641]RegUS_PatOff[/user] wrote:

All voltage measurenments should be with the device connected ..

In that case I measured around 3VDC with the solenoid connected. 

How many ohms should a new coil measure?


#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 16 January 2009 - 05:28 PM

R=E/I

10v/.05A = 200 OHMS

Coil looks OK...   the Controller can't put out enough current (A), so the voltage drops...

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#5 Southern

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 11:56 AM

Thanks for your help.

Took it back apart and measured the amps to the coil (15mA) which is way too low (as you suspected).

Took the circuit board off to have a look for any burnt components, from my visual inspection everything looks good.  Checked the ground connection to the circuit board.  Put the circuit board back in, plugged in the wires and tested it.  Now I can the solenoid clicks and was able to measure 10VDC with the coil connected.  Buttoned everything back up and now I'm back in business. 

I suspect that there was a bad connection, hopefully it will not reappear.


#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 12:03 PM

Good to know, Southern. Mucho domos for posting the outcome! :dude:

#7 Southern

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 01:20 PM

I made a donation to the Beer Fund for all the wisdom that the Experts have shared with me over the years.

Many thanks for all of the information that Fixitnow.com has to offer.


#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 02:13 PM

Domo for the brewskis, mah bruvah! :cheers:




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