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Kenmore Elite Freestanding Ice Maker


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14 replies to this topic

#1 error

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 10:50 AM

I have a Kenmore Elite freestanding Ice Maker that I can't find any model number tag anywhere(Front, back, kick panel, compressor area, etc.). I have only found a schematic paper in by the compressor.

Here is the issue that I see. When the unit is first powered up it runs through the cleaning cycle. Then it produces 1 block of ice. The ice slides out of the ice making unit on to the wire cutting system and falls into the bin. After that it produces no more.


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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 11:13 AM

Does the Schematic have a part number  ?
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#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 11:29 AM

Most of these are made by Whilrpool.

What happens after that first batch: Is water still circulating over the evaporator plate but not freezing? No water circulating?

#4 Pegi

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 11:32 AM

From the Sears site.

Let us help you find your model number. We'll use it to locate the right parts and it'll guarantee that the parts we find will work like they're supposed to.


Look at following areas for the model number
  • On Plate Of Interior Door

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#5 error

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 06:12 PM

After the first block the water still circulating across the plate, but it never spits out a second block.

Model number is nowhere to be found unless it is under one of the plastic skins. I can't even see anything like it was removed.

Attached is the compressor info.

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#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 10:38 PM

error wrote:

... RegUS_PatOff: DO YOU EVER SLEEP??

sometimes I can't sleep, so I check out this site ...

(KitchenAid Whirlpool) Kenmore model # 4689482993 Wiring Sheets 2217233

some info: 15 Inch Automatic Ice Maker

Service Manual 15" & 18" Automactic Ice Makers 58 MB  Posted Image
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#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 18 January 2009 - 02:12 AM

Make sure the condenser fan is running and vacuum out the condenser grill. These units are very sensitive to dirt on the condensers.

#8 denrayr

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Posted 18 January 2009 - 06:47 AM

after it makes the first batch drain the water from the reaervoir by removing the cap at the bottom. inspect the freeze plate for a frost patern.
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#9 error

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 07:52 AM

Condenser fan is running and grill is clean. It moves a lot of air and blows the napkins of the bar.

After first batch if I drain the water the plate freezes(don't put you tongue or fingers on plate...THEY STICK) then the plate seems to go warm. If I leave the water flowing over the plate the water gets warm over time.

Does this sound like an issue with the "hot gas" valve getting stuck? That could explain one block and then no more. I might try disconnecting the the hot valve solenoid and running it for a while.

#10 Trying to help

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 08:05 AM

Unhooking the Hot Gas diverter valve will not help you if it is leaking and not sealing.  Unhooking the wires will just keep it from not pulling in when it is time for harvest.  If the valve was being energized constantly, the water would start to heat up and your chiller plate would not get cold.  Let it run for a while, you should produce a harvest every 18-25 (on new style) 22-30 on the older ones.  If your first batch of ice drops, and your second does not, take a voltage test at the solenoid valve as it is in ice production, you should have no voltage there.  If you do not, drain the water out as it is running, you should get a frost pattern within 5 minutes or so on a correctly functioning unit with no water flowing over the plate.      
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#11 error

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 08:24 AM

At first power on the first block drops in about 20 mins(After Cleaning). If I drain the water and check for frost the plate freezes(Sticks fingers) but then goes warm.

#12 Trying to help

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 02:08 PM

Your coils normal position is refrigerate.  The coil on top is a separate part, but the functions and reversing action is an internal sealed system part.  You cold have a board that is putting power down to the reversing valve at wrong times, but it is unlikely.  When the plate turns warm, you can check for power at the solenoid.  There should only be voltage there (120VAC from one lead to the other) during harvest.  The neutral is there at all times and the L1 comes from your board.  I think you are going to have a system issue error.  Again, after it dumps the first slab, the only time you should have power there is during a harvest.  
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#13 error

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 06:16 PM

I have looked into the hot gas solenoid and it seems like it powers on and off in the correct time frame...power on ~20 minutes after system power for about a 1-2 minutes. The more testing I do stops producing ice all together. If I let it sit for a day or two and turn it back on I get the first block but no more. The freezer plate gets warmer the more it runs. Today when I tested it didn't produce any ice and when I drained the water and looked for frost it didn't even freeze the left over water.

Could I be stuck in refrigeration mode or is my hot gas valve stuck open or leaking? Is there anyway to test to be sure? Or should I look in another place?

I also need to add that the solenoid has the proper resistance...673Ohms.

#14 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 22 January 2009 - 02:54 AM

Most likely the hot gas valve is leaking; its problem is mechanical, not electrical. Replacing the HG valve is a sealed system repair.

#15 Bobice

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Posted 23 January 2009 - 08:06 AM

Making one block of ice, then no more. Plate cold, then warms up sounds like a restricted capillary tube (moisture freezing), or problem resulting from dirt build up on condenser causing the oil to break down and a white powder like substance clogging the capillary tube.
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