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Kenmore refrigerator model 10653606201 air diffuser


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11 replies to this topic

#1 paschal_old

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Posted 29 July 2005 - 11:45 AM

After a bad experience with Sears service on a dryer (the timer broke for a second time a month out of warranty and they flipped me off), I turned to doing my own repair work when possible and so far have been successful. After delivery of this new fridge (10653606201 S/N SM38275XX.) (I left out the last two digits for security), in my new house, I realized the plumber left out a bridge connection under the sink for an icemaker or the outdoor faucet. (I am on a slab...no room for stupid errors) I carefully replumbed my cold water side to take care of the problems myself. After all the hookups with the heavy duty hoses, the icemaker would not function properly. Sears put in a new control board and icemaker parts and everything was fine for about two years. Two weeks ago, I needed a lot of ice for two large coolers for meat and produce transport to a remote cabin. I used the rapid ice cycle. No problem there, about what seemed 20 to 30 pounds of ice in a couple of days. Wife called the cabin the next day and said that the fridge side was 58 degrees. When I got home the left upper vent was not producing air flow. Went thru several two or three hour power off cycles and the air flow would work for about 30 minutes and quit. Freezer was fine with air flow and icemaking and holding at zero degrees. The return vent seemed to be working, although barely able to hold a kleenex. (DO NOT KNOW IF THAT IS NORMAL) Repairclinic.com diagnosed the diffuser as the culprit, but out of stock and having to wait two weeks. Diagnosis sounded logical, however. If my research is correct the diffuser works with the electronic thermostat to open and close the diffuser vent to more closely regulate temperature (than a manual vent control) i.e. opening the door a lot, or not much at all. I do hear a winding up whirring type sound, as though a motor is trying to open the louvers and it recycles itself a lot, seemingly in failure, probably in my guess from either or both a component failure and freezing from the diffuser unit. This is information I only collected today, which seems to reinforce the initial diagnosis. It seems as though the control panel is OK but considering the wait time on components, I thought it in my best interest to post here for any additional opinions. To settle the household down a bit, yesterday I put a stick type pen in the louver so that we could use the fridge. Of course even with minimal air flow, this morning it was below freezing, until the door was opened several times. That is where I surmized that there is a scalable air flow linked to the control board thermostat and the diffuser interacting. Hopefully I have supplied enough information to the helpful moderators here to get additional opinions. So, right, wrong, or doing something stupid, have no problem with responses, but nevertheless, please respond.

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#2 Pegi

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Posted 29 July 2005 - 11:59 AM

Yes, this is a Whirlpool frig with the Kenmore name stuck on the front.  It does sound like your damper assy is defective.  Probably the door is broken off of the motor assy and will not open and close on its own.
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#3 paschal_old

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Posted 29 July 2005 - 12:06 PM

Is there potential harm by keeping it forced open with a stick pen or should I go back to living in ice chests? I have seen this temp fix in various web pages without opinion to a potential downside, but do not want to learn the hard way.

Thank you very, very much for quick initial response!!!

#4 Pegi

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Posted 29 July 2005 - 12:11 PM

I would keep it open till you can get the part, would be much better than living out of ice chests, just will not have even temps in the food compartment. Adjust your opening according to what the FF side is doing.  I would get the 2216112 Air Diffuser assy, and the 2216113=2188819 thermister also, just in case it has failed.

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#5 Pegi

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Posted 29 July 2005 - 12:15 PM

Reference #'s 13 and 23.

 

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#6 Mad Mac

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Posted 29 July 2005 - 12:22 PM

This is a common, long standing issue with these. I used to keep six of these on the truck to ensure I always had one to hand. I'd also keep the area around the diffuser well cleared until you get the new one, as excess airflow may well freeze anything in its path.
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#7 paschal_old

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Posted 29 July 2005 - 01:00 PM

Then, can I confirm, for the benefit of many other people, as well as myself, when this type diffuser is in place with a Kenmore/Whirlpool fridge, the airflow is variable by means of the diffuser? In other words, the cfm generated to the refrigerator side of the unit starts at the user controlled digital thermostat in the control panel? Assuming that this is correct and the fridge side is too warm, a command is sent to the diffuser to open up and send more cfm's to cool the fridge side? Once the thermostat is satisfied with the temperature drop, a reverse command is sent to the control panel module to activate the air diffuser to choke off the air flow so that the fridge side will not freeze and will stay within temperature limits prescribed by the control panel default settings? Assuming that there is no further user intervention, is this the correct loop procedure? I am an engineer, but not in refrigeration, and always want to learn more about other arenas.

#8 Pegi

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Posted 29 July 2005 - 01:04 PM

You explain this very well, and have the correct concept of how this works...;)
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#9 paschal_old

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Posted 29 July 2005 - 01:18 PM

And you do not get half the thank-you's you deserve, but here is mine....THANK YOU....you have helped greatly!!!

#10 Pegi

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Posted 29 July 2005 - 01:24 PM

Thank you from all of us and you are quite welcome....:cool:
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#11 raj5132

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Posted 26 November 2005 - 06:52 PM

I had a similar problem with similar model. Of course had to happen on Thanksgiving day and lost some good leftovers. I could open baffle manually and frig side would cool, but would then heat back up after baffle was driven closed. Looking at the wiring digram and baffle module diag test, realized I could modify test to check operation of baffle against other components and further isolate the fault. I turned off frig side and set freezer at warmest setting. Once compressor and freezer fan have stopped running, turn frig back on. If freezer fan starts to spin, you are getting voltage to baffle motor and thermostat is working, but the baffle door is not. Hopefully will help the next person who gets this problem.

#12 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 26 November 2005 - 06:56 PM

Hey, raj, good tip. Thanks for posting that! :dude:




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