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Joes Toy

GE Monogram Model ZISB42DYB warm beer cooler/cold freezer

40 posts in this topic

Hey guys, I know my problem seams to be no uncommon occurrence but I couldn't find any posts that diagnose my particular refrigerator plus I felt like donating to the good Samurai's beer fund was a worth while donation :D

THE PATIENT

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THE STORY

After reading up on the faqs and the "Warm Fridge Fire Drill" I began hoping that too many dust bunny had finally made their home in my kitchen and slowed down the cooling so I got to exterminating and blew the coils out with a compressor.

After reading the "Fire Drill",  choking on some dust and a 24 hour wait I opened the refrigerator in hopes so find icy cold milk but instead was hit with the same "food getting warm" odor and warm milk...

After closing the door in disappointment I waited and realized there was no sound of a fan or vacuum starting up but just a sad silence...  So I tried the freezer, after inspecting the nice cool temperature I closed the door and immediately the fan and vacuum kicked on.

One more strange occurrence to add to this would be after inspecting the freezer compartment (haven't removed and panels just yet) I noticed that the newer ice cubes (top of the ice box) had a lot less air trapped in them (possibly freezing slower?).  I don't know if that helps any with diagnosing a problem but I felt it worth mentioning.  (New ice on left)

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Please Samurai enlighten the poor grasshopper on why his milk is getting warm.

Thanks for your time everyone.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Is the Compressor running ?

Is the Condenser Fan (near Compressor) running ?

Is the Evaporator Fan (Freezer) running ?

If you could post a picture of the Evaporator Coils (behind wall in Freezer)

 

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Wow that was wicked fast Moderating!  I'll get some pics right now.

1. The compressor (black sphere in third picture?) is vibrating and warm so yes.

2. The fan right behind the Compressor is blowing out air (Sucking air threw the fins)

3. Haven't heard or seen the evaporator fan. I'll pull the panels to expose the coils right now and I'll look for the fan..

Looks like I'm not the only one who can't sleep. ;)

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[user=3641]RegUS_PatOff[/user] wrote:

Is the Compressor running ?

Is the Condenser Fan (near Compressor) running ?

Is the Evaporator Fan (Freezer) running ?

If you could post a picture of the Evaporator Coils (behind wall in Freezer)

 

Ok RegUs PatOff here's the results.

The Evap Fan is working.

And here is your picture of the Evap.

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Given that this thing is completely iced over what do you think it could be? I know generally the components will be working overtime to cool things down when the Evap. gets this frosty but will a simple thaw fix my problem (even though the freezer is staying plenty cold)?

Do you think I should be concerned that some of the Styrofoam (3rd pic) next to the exap. is looking slightly melted... :P

I managed to get the stupid baffle evap foam out in almost 1 piece, should I worry about the broken corner?

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I have to go to work at 7 but I'll be keeping an eye on the thread all day to answer any questions.  Thanks for taking a look.  I hope to become knowledgeable enough about this stuff that I don't have to call the serviceman out.

-Joe-

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Looks like a Defrost problem.

I don't have any info on the ZIS series.. but I'll do some more looking ...

Defrost Timer # 257

 

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Defrost Heater # 15

Defrost Thermostat (Teminator) # 12 (first thing to check)

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You obviously have a defrost problem. Find the timer somewhere close to the back near the condenser. Turn the one awy know till it goes into defrost. Should turn on the heater below the coil to defroest. Either you have a bad timer, thermostat or heater. Check the heater for burnt spots in the glass. Usually means its bad.

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Sorry this seems to be a metal defrost heater and they dont go bad too often.That would leave the defrost terminATor or the timer the culprit.

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Ok the defrost terminator or the defrost timer.  Great! Haha, how does one check these for failure?  I have a digital voltmeter, can I test the resistance on them?

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Ok I see:

Option 1 (Defrost Timer): http://www.repairclinic.com/Appliance-Parts?s=t-WR9X587%20-%3d%3d

Option 2 (Defrost Thermostat): http://www.repairclinic.com/Appliance-Parts?s=t-WR50X45%20-%3d%3d

Both in stock and under $100!!!  Party! :party:

So guys should I just think about ordering both or is there a way you would recommend I test one.  I'm completely ok with getting both parts if you all think this could fix the fridge.  I'll await further instructions :)

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OHM meter on the Defrost Thermostat (switch closed when COLD)

Voltmeter on the Defrost Timer ... OR OHM meter if power is disconnected...

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Ok I've just been googling to try and educate myself on how a OHM meter is supose to work.  I'm good with mechanical devices. Circuits confuse me... 

What resistance (I think that's the term) should I be looking for?

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Defrost Themostat is a switch...

0 OHMS when cold.

infinite OHMS when open (warm)

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I think the thermostat is here. melt the frost around it and inspect it. usually when they go bad the plastic cap bulges up

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I've never worked on one of these models but, what appears to me to be the defrost terminator is on the bottom of the picture, (I can't really tell the orientation of that picture).

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Hey guys I just got home so I haven't tested anything yet but I wanted to take a couple pictures of the defrosted coils and show them in a way that helps orient better. 

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Does this help?  I'll post up the OHM results in the morning.  I need some sleep :P

Thanks for the support so far!  Its a special thing to be able to get so much help from people all over the country.

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From the last picture, what I circled in the frozen evaporator picture was the defrost terminator.  It appears there are two of them, I only see one in the parts breakdown picture posted.

And, now that everything is defrosted, you aren't going to be able to test them unless the ends are all bulging out.  In the defrosted state they will show as open circuit.  You will need to let them freeze again to test to see if they close when they are cold, (below 20 degrees at least).

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[user=36]Budget Appliance Repair[/user] wrote:

From the last picture, what I circled in the frozen evaporator picture was the defrost terminator.  It appears there are two of them, I only see one in the parts breakdown picture posted.

And, now that everything is defrosted, you aren't going to be able to test them unless the ends are all bulging out.  In the defrosted state they will show as open circuit.  You will need to let them freeze again to test to see if they close when they are cold, (below 20 degrees at least).

I had planned on removing the defrost terminators and putting them in my chest freezer for a couple hours to test them.  I noticed that indeed there is two (?) should I pull them both off and test them?  Am I ok to cut the wire to take them off and splice it later?  I'll have to cut the wires to test them anyway correct?

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Here's some better pictures of the Terminators per some fancy mirror shots.

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Caps don't look bulged so I guess I'm going to have to test them... Now how to get those suckers out of there..?

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Yes, to get them out and test you will need to cut the wires and splice them or the new ones back in, using silcone on the splice connectors to keep moisture out, (follow the wiring from the terminators and see if maybe they have a plug on the other end so you don't have to to cut the wires -- they problably don't).

No obvious signs of frozen/bulging caps, to remove them for the plate they are attached to, I believe if you sqeeze the clamp that goes over the top it will pop the clips out of the plate they are attached to.

I don't know way they have two defrost terminators, like I said, I've never worked on one of these models before.

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Ok guys little update. I've cut out the terminators and tested them both warm and cold.  Both are open when cold and closed when warm so those check out.  So it sounds like it has to be the timer right? I'm a little confused When regUS_PatOff suggested I use a voltmeter to test the timer because there's four different lead coming off of the unit.  Could someone explain which terminals should show what?

In the pictures below you can see theres a darker area next to one of the terminals.  Is that a sign that the timer has maybe overheated?  I'm ready for cold drinks again :D  Whats the next step?

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[user=47187]Joes Toy[/user] wrote:

...  Both are open when cold and closed when warm so those check out.

:headscratch:   don't you mean the other way around ?

SW 3-2 10A = switch contacts 3-2 for the Defrost Heater

SW 3-4 1/3 HP = switch contacts 3-4 for the Compressor

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One of the defrost  thermostats should be a safety thermostat like the newer style Ge's have. Should open at a higher temp to shut the heater off should it become shorted. It should read on the side L140 ish. It should read closed at a warmer temperature as it will take higher temp to open it up.

The other is the actual defrost thermostat that controls the heater. It should read on the side of it L60 or L75 ish. It should read open when warmer than whatever is printed on the side of the stat. Should read closed when colder (below 20 degrees or so. If it still reads closed when warm change it. Also change that burnt defrost timer and you should be ok.  Good luck and check back...

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The 3 terminals closest together are the ones. The middle is line 1 and it switches to the other 2 one is compressor run and the other is defrost.The 4th terminal is netural or the other side of the timing motor that is wired to line 1 also. Take you ohm meter and check for meter movement when you turn the outside knob either in defrost a short 2or3 clicks, the rest is compressor run time. As far as the thermostats you can short them out or put the wires together to see if the heater comes on. I think one of them must be an overheat thermostat 140 degrees to open that circut. Do not leave the thermostats out of the loop as it could overheat the box

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[user=3641]RegUS_PatOff[/user] wrote:

[user=47187]Joes Toy[/user] wrote:
...  Both are open when cold and closed when warm so those check out.

:headscratch:   don't you mean the other way around ?

SW 3-2 10A = switch contacts 3-2 for the Defrost Heater

SW 3-4 1/3 HP = switch contacts 3-4 for the Compressor

Your right RegUS.  I'm still trying to get use to the OHM meter.  Thanks for straitening that out.

Does it matter that the part shown on RepairClinic's site only shows 3 prongs? I'm ready to order I was just worried about not getting the right part.

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