Kenmore frontload washer model 417.40412701
Posted 02 March 2009 - 09:30 AM
We’ve replaced that budget model with an even more basic model, the 417.40412201. This one doesn’t have an “eco-cycle” and doesn’t allow me to change the spin speed. (The only one who ever adjusted spin speed was the four-year-old, and it made me none too happy when I realized he had twisted the knob.)
Having perused the site, I want to list what I’ve learned and ask a couple of questions—because I’d like this new frontloader to last a little longer if I care for it a little better. I would greatly appreciate any constructive suggestions. J
When I noticed the mildewy smell that plagues frontloaders, I began leaving the door cracked after each load. Because of the soiled loads I wash—3 kids’ school uniforms, husband’s work jeans and t-shirts, and an aging parent’s icky sheets and clothes—I frequently run a hot wash with bleach to sanitize drum. We really didn’t have much of a problem with mildew (apart from the crud behind the detergent drawer, which I only recently dared to peek at). Again, counting my blessings because the laundry room doesn’t have ductwork (only venting outside) and we live in Louisiana.
I’ve never used liquid fabric softener (dryer sheets only, and then in only some loads). I will now use some vinegar occasionally.
So, at the end of the day, I will wipe out drum; gently dry gasket (boot), and dry between gasket and drum; wipe door; pull out detergent drawer to let dry out and wipe rubber area behind drawer.
I will be VERY frugal now with my He detergent. (I oversudsed a few times a year, even with He detergent.) In regularly soiled loads, I have added Chlorox 2. I will reduce the amount of that I use (maybe only filling up to cover bottom of bottle cap). I add Oxiclean as well as Chlorox 2 in the drum for the heavily soiled clothing. My guess is I should only add 1 oz. of that Oxiclean (you don’t want to know how much I was using before).
I see that I should periodically run “cleaning” wash cycle with additional gallon of hot water, bleach added to all dispensers, and between a capful and 3 tbsp. of Pinesol to drum.
I also see that I should add Cascade to drum. But I have soft water, so how much Cascade should I use? I saw a suggestion to use ½ cup in the drum. We have something called SpotFree powder for the dishwasher and I only use 1 tsp. of that in said DW. How do I know if that might work and how much I should use?
Any and all helpful suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Posted 02 March 2009 - 09:41 AM
no wiping of anything or empting the Dispenser ...
After about 12 moths, we did notice some black gookus under the Door lip.
We will be running a "Tub Clean" cycle (on this model) once a month.
LG "Tub Clean", more water, heated water.
Why would you buy another Frigidaire FL without first checking if the one you have, has the corroded Spider / Bearing ?
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Posted 02 March 2009 - 10:20 AM
From posts I read about the bearing problem, it seemed it could cost anywhere from 200-500 dollars w/o shipping, depending on how extensive the damage is. I didnt' look at just prices for spider arms (repair clinic's price for entire tub assembly scared me); without a visual, it didn't seem prudent to start throwing money at it. If fix is not as expensive as we feared, we'll fix, weatherize, and save old one as backup. BTW, S---s sales price pretax and extended warranty was less than the tub assembly.
We looked at other washers online and instore. Most now seem to have digital readouts and none seemed to be great choices. We prefer low-tech with ability to wash twin-size quilts/comforter safely.
We considered other frontloaders, but then wondered if our dryer could handle the potentially larger load. We didn't want to replace both at the same time.
Am I happy with this washer? Yes and no (wished it had lasted longer). But I feel like I know what I'm getting with it versus the unknown. If I can do more to make it last longer, then that will be good.
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