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Electron2002

Maytag MLG2000AWW Will not complete wash cycle

44 posts in this topic

Hello I have a Maytag MLG2000AWW which will not complete the wash cycle. Here is what I can tell you thus far.

Turn the timer to Heavy or light, press the start button. ON light illuminates. Washer begins to fill. After filling washer ON light remains on. Long pause with little to no activity. Motor will turn and rotate the drum for a brief period in one direction then stop. After another pause. drum will rotate in opposite direction. After doing this for a while unit will typically shut itself off before reaching a rinse cycle. If you manually turn the timer the unit will drain and refill properly, but will never reach the spin cycle. The door does lock in the proper stages and the lamp illuminates.

I'm sure there is more details you want so let me know.

Thanks guys!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

if i remember isn't that a main control that causes this condition??? I remember changing the main control for a random shut off condition.

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So... you guys think its the main control board?

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Check your water supply first.  The unit is designed to shut off after approximately 8-10 minutes if the pressure switch is not satisfied.  The long pauses between tumbles is usually the cycle that is selected.  Set the timer on the cotton sturdy section of the timer, this should give you a seven second tumble, 3 second pause pattern.  Sounds like you are running it on perm press or delicate.  This is a Thermistor controlled wash fill and straight temp rinse fill.  You could very well have clogged screens on your fill valve or inlet hoses.  Start the unit on the # 2 rinse and let it run till it shuts off.  A proper fill on rinse should be almost completely covering one of the large baffles if you rotate the drum so one is at the 6 o'clock position.  Try that first.

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I have been doing the majority of my testing on the regular section of the timer, I have at times checked function in the perm press and delicate section, but the washer has almost always reacted the same way.

Water pressure to the wall taps is good, but I will double check how well it fills in the washer its self. It has always seemed to sound like it was filling well, but I can't rule out that there might be some blockage in the valves, etc.

What is the best way to check the pressure in the unit?

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I checked how much it fills in the #2 rinse position, and it fills to the point you described.

I forgot to mention, that when I received this unit, it came with a new washer timer (the last owner thought that might have been the problem, but never bothered to install it). So, I went ahead and installed it, and nothing changed, so it would appear the timer itself is not the culprit.

I was looking at the service manual that you guys provided, and saw on page 3-1 a troubleshooting tip discussing a condition where the machine shuts off after 5 minutes. It leads you to look for a communication issue between the timer and main control board.

What do you guys think?

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post-48994-12904510972_thumb.jpg

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So does anyone have any more input to provide?

I am going to remove the top panel of the cabinet to take a look at the control board this evening. If there is anything additional you thing I should check let me know.

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There are a few things that will cause the unit to intermittently shut off in a cycle.  Unless you find something fried, I would do the preventive maintenance to eliminate them from the equation.

** Water fill- If the unit sees one fill take longer then 6 minutes, or combined fills taking longer then 12, it shuts off until the start is pressed.  Clean the screens at the end of the hose at both ends!  Faucet end should have a screen washer to catch the gunk.

** Timer motor must advance- If the timer does not advance to a new incriminate in any 5 minute time, the unit will shut off.  The timer motor receives a pulse of L1 for about 5-10 seconds from the board every couple of minutes.  It is not a constant feed.  This is what the quote you pasted from the Service Manual is referring too.  Usually, if this is the case, the unit will not advance in any location.

** Timer inputs- There are 4 timer inputs to the board that tell the board via L1, 24VDC or a combination of the two what cycle it is in (Fill, Rinse, Wash, Spin, Etc.).  If the board fails to see a input or combination of inputs it recognizes, it will shut off.  This can be caused by a bad timer (you tried one so throw that out) or loose connections at the board on these inputs (much more common).  Now not only will the unit stop if it does not see the correct input, it will not start until it does.  This does not sound like what you are describing.

** Motor inputs- Torque Tach return signal.  This will cause you unit to shut down if the upper board ever' fails to see the signals back from the motor control.  If it never sees the signal as in a bad board, it will only run in 5-20 second intervals.  This is not your case, but a loose connection can intermittently loose the signal causing the unit to shut down.

Before changing out a part if nothing is obvious, clean the water supply and tighten all the connections that keep the unit running.    

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Well, I pulled the control board, but could not find any obvious damaged or burned components. However what I did find that someone appears to have installed a makeshift jumper between two of the pins of P6. The jumper appears to be a slightly crimped female spade terminal. The jumper is between 2 pins that are labeled as "SLOW FILL". The other 4 pins, for DIAGNOSTICS and SPINNER SPEED are not jumpered at all. Should these pins be jumpered at all? Why would you want these jumpered? I can find any reference to these pins in the service manual, so I am not sure what their true function is.

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On original units, you were able to extend the time out fill default by jumping the pins together (New boards have the extended fill already programmed into the software).  The jumper will not harm the unit but it does point to a previous problem with slow fills. 

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Hmmm.... Well I'm kind of stuck. I will recheck my water lines this evening and check for any loose pin fit. If I can't find anything there, and do have to start putting parts in, where should I start? The control board seems to be the most likely culprit. Would you concur?

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Does the timer advance at all by itself form one cycle to another? 

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The timer does physically advance on its own (up until the unit shuts off completely), but its kind of hard for me to tell if it is doing it correctly. Since I have installed a new timer, my intuition is telling me the problem is in what is controlling the timer, which is of course the control board.

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Well I put the control board back in and tried it with the jumper removed and reinstalled, and it made no difference.

This time around I wasn't getting any action out of the motor, all i could get it to do was fill and drain. This is really starting to bug me, as it seems to be digressing.

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The motor control board in the bottom of the machine on the right hand side may have failed. Unplug the machine, disconnect your wiring (making sure you remember where the wires go) and check the board for burnt components or a blown fuse. If anything is failed or looks bad, you need to replace the motor and the motor control board as a kit.

Also check your tub displacement switch at the front bottom of the tub, the wires may have pulled out of the switch, if this switch doesn't close, the machine control board thinks the load is unbalanced, and will try a few times to redistribute the load before going into high speed spin. If it doesn't succeed, it will give up and shut the machine off.

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I have visually checked the motor control, and there are no signs of damaged components. Also, the wiring to the OOB switch looks good.

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Anyone else have any ideas?

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you can test the original motor control by removing the J4 connector on the mcu... As long as there is 120v on that black and white wire, that basket should rotate approx 60-90 rpms consistently until the power is removed or the J4 connect is returned onto the control...

Now I do this with the machine live... I DO NOT RECOMMEND it because if you touch the mcu you will go OUUUUCCHHHH!     if you do use extreme caution as to not touch any part of the MCU but the white connector.

assuming you have to replaced the conversion kit, your mcu should look like this:

motor_control_board.jpg

see dat derrr blue, red yella and whhhhite wire??? pull on dat... DONT TOUCH THE METAL! :)

if your board does not look like this, then it should like this:

MaytagRepairKit.jpg

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I will be a day or so before I can try what you are recommending, I currently have the whole front off of it so I can replace the door seal.

In the mean time, this is what my Motor Control looks like.

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there are 2 wiring blocks that connect the washer harness into the upper harness. this block is on the left and right side if i remember. make sure you dont have any loose wires at these connections.

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the bottom most connector is your JP4 connector.... with the unit on wash, pull that connector and it should rotate one direction approx 60 or so rpms

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[user=8]denrayr[/user] wrote:

there are 2 wiring blocks that connect the washer harness into the upper harness. this block is on the left and right side if i remember. make sure you dont have any loose wires at these connections.
I checked those out and everything appears good there, without removing the pins individually from the connectors and checking pin tension.

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[user=23009]Tronicsmasta[/user] wrote:

the bottom most connector is your JP4 connector.... with the unit on wash, pull that connector and it should rotate one direction approx 60 or so rpms

Thanks, once I get the unit back into enough of one piece that I can try to operate it once again, I will give this a shot.

If the motor doesn't begin to turn, would that indicate the motor control has failed?

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I'm a little confused about the whole motor and MCU conversion kit. After some point did these parts become standard in these units? Or did this kit come around only after these models had left the market? Is it at all possible for my unit to have already had the newer parts installed from the factory (if it is a newer built unit)?

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