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10yr Old Searsh Kenmore Advantage Dryer Won't Stop!!!


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15 replies to this topic

#1 Birdman

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Posted 04 August 2005 - 06:04 PM

Hello,

I have a Sears Kenmore Advantage Dryer:

Model NO:  110.97566200
Stock #:  75662
Serial #:  ME0505031

The dryer appears to be actually drying fine.  The odd thing is, the timer never stops!  I set the timer on 40 minutes, the dryer does it's thing and then hits the STOP cycle on the knob.  Instead of completely stopping, the dryer acts like it is on a "pause" cycle for the duration of the STOP setting on the knob.  Once the STOP cycle times out, the dryer simply starts up on the next cycle, which is NO HEAT drying.

It appears that the timer never completely stops...it continues to time.  Do I need a new timer for the dryer?

Thanks for any help you can provide,
Scott


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#2 Birdman

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Posted 04 August 2005 - 06:11 PM

One more thing, not sure if this matters or not, but for completeness' sake it is an LP Gas dryer.

#3 nickfixit

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Posted 05 August 2005 - 12:50 AM

The contacts on your start switch are welded together. Replace the "push to start" switch and you'll be back in the game.
" Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed"

#4 Birdman

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Posted 05 August 2005 - 03:03 AM

Thanks for the idea.  I did, however, think about that.  I will need to do a little more testing/investigation, but I think I still need to PUSH start the washer to "jump start it" .

I'm wondering if the ONLY cycle that is not stopping is the STOP cycle between the TIMED DRY and the AIR DRY.    I guess I gotta do more research, but I'm pretty sure I still have to press the start button in to initialize the dryer.....at SOME POINT, the dryer eventually stops.


#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 05 August 2005 - 03:44 AM

No need for guess-work: use your meter and do a continuity check on the start switch in both positions. If it switches between open and closed with pressing or not, then you know the switch is good and your problem is the timer.

#6 Birdman

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Posted 05 August 2005 - 03:52 AM

Got it...I can definitely do that.   Thanks for the advice.

#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 05 August 2005 - 03:59 AM

For your convenience, here're the parts:

Timer:
http://www.repaircli...sp?R=154&N=2030

Start Switch:
http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=526865


#8 Pegi

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Posted 05 August 2005 - 10:15 AM

Hummm, I would think even if the start switch was welded together or by-passed the timer would stop at the off and would not advance until someone turned it to a cycle and closed the door.  Sounds like either the timer is welded internally or something is grounded, feeding this timer motor when it should not.
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#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 05 August 2005 - 11:04 AM

[user=533]Pegi[/user] wrote:

Hummm, I would think even if the start switch was welded together or by-passed the timer would stop at the off and would not advance until someone turned it to a cycle and closed the door.


Good thinking, Pegi! :)

I'm pretty sure his start switch will test good but since I'm not right there at the dryer, I allow for surprises.

Another point related to the start switch contacts being welded shut is that the motor start windings would stay energized. This causes the motor to overheat and very quickly results a burned out start winding. Since the motor is still running normally, with no nuisance tripping on thermal overload, it seems less likely that the start switch would be the problem.

#10 Birdman

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Posted 05 August 2005 - 04:27 PM

Well, I checked the continuity between the On switch lead that went to the Red/White wire and the lead that went to the Black wire.  No matter whether the switch is pushed in or left in its outward resting position, there is always continuity between these two leads...I enclosed some pics of the schematic from my dryer and the leads on the switch itself.

Now, would a "fused" switch completely explain what is happening or is another component also suspect?

NOTE:  I did test another STOP point and, sure enough, once the "pause" was timed out, the next cycle began and the dryer turned on by itself.....

Posted Image

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#11 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 05 August 2005 - 04:48 PM

Looks like Nick nailed this one. Nice shootin', Nick! :armed:

#12 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 05 August 2005 - 05:01 PM

[user=1]Samurai Appliance Repair Man[/user] wrote:

Another point related to the start switch contacts being welded shut is that the motor start windings would stay energized.


Thinking about this some more-- that's incorrect because the motor's internal centrifugal switch would take the start winding out the circuit at 80% of rated RPM. So the motor would operate normally.

#13 Birdman

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Posted 07 August 2005 - 12:38 PM

Just wanted to finalize this discussion.  I went to the local Sears Repair shop and they had one switch in stock...cost $7.50.

Installation took like 5, maybe 10, minutes tops.  All appears to be working correctly now.

Just wanted to thank you guys for you insight and ideas...all is good now!

 

-Scott


#14 Pegi

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Posted 07 August 2005 - 03:31 PM

Good going Nick!!  Thanks for letting us know Scott.....;)
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#15 nickfixit

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Posted 07 August 2005 - 05:56 PM

Even a blind bird finds a worm once in a while  :D

I used to find the same problem all the time.

" Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed"

#16 Pegi

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Posted 07 August 2005 - 06:58 PM

Cool, I will be sure to remember this one....:P
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