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12 year old whirlpool washer locked up--- almost


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11 replies to this topic

#1 mlavelle3

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Posted 05 August 2005 - 06:45 AM

my whirlpool washer tub locked-up and broke the motor coupler,, after checking it again ,, i found out its not totally locked-up , just extremely hard to turn by hand,, is this worth fixing,, or should i just get a new one. its tore down in my pantry right now.  thanks guys

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#2 Pegi

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Posted 05 August 2005 - 07:01 AM

What is not totally locked up, the spin basket? Tranny? You should not be able to turn the spin basket by hand until the break is released.  The washer has to be running for this to release and the coupler intact.  The coupler can break because it just wore out, the washer was overloaded, the tranny locked up or something is holding the spin basket from spinning like something between the basket and the tub or the drive block is worn and the basket has dropped and is rubbing on the bottom of the tub.. Remove the case, pull the pump and motor and see if the tranny will turn both ways by turning the shaft.  MIght not be anything wrong with this fine washer except the coupler went ka-poot....
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#3 mlavelle3

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Posted 05 August 2005 - 07:33 AM

Thanks Pegi,  yes i was talking about the basket,,, yes the shaft will move,,, i thought that the basket could be turned by hand all the time,, now that i know it actually has to be on,, i guess all i need is a coupler. thank you very much

#4 Pegi

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Posted 05 August 2005 - 07:36 AM

Cool, you are very welcome!!  ;)
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#5 giacobe

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Posted 06 August 2005 - 03:22 PM

I have a similar problem. Here are the symptoms:

Washer fills, but does not drain or spin. During the drain/spin cycle, there is a buzzing sound like it WANTS to spin, but doesn't.

Pulled the motor and found the coupler in relatively good shape - but some pin holes in the middle gasket slightly distorted. Tub spins freely when motor not attached (I think).

Anyway, I'm wondering how to diagnose whether the motor is dead, the tranny is jammed, the drum is jammed or just the coupler needs to be replaced.

Also, if there is something between the basket and tub - how do I get to it? I can't seem to figure out how to get the agitator out.

Thx in advance!

-- Nick


#6 Pegi

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Posted 06 August 2005 - 04:17 PM

Nick, need the model number to see what type of agitator set up you have as far as the bolt that holds the base on, if it is single or double shaft.
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#7 giacobe

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Posted 06 August 2005 - 06:11 PM

Whirpool LSR8244EQ1

Thanks in advance!

#8 Pegi

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Posted 07 August 2005 - 07:23 AM

Looks like just pull the softner disp . out, remove the dome, if it has one, remove the bolt holding the agitator, then just pull the whole assy out as one unit.  Then remove the splashguard, un-screw the lock nut and lift the spin basket up and out.  Look at the drive block also, this might be worn down and slipping. Bolt Ref. #2, lock nut # 12, drive block # 17.

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#9 giacobe

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Posted 20 August 2005 - 04:31 PM

Well, after getting brave, I pulled the pump and motor as one unit - after disconnecting the pump from the supply/drain hoses and getting a bit wet :)

Lo and behold - there was a toddler sock in the pump. (I have a 7 year old, and twin 4-year olds) I pulled it out and now it works great... except one thing.

It leaks. I've checked the hose clamp connections and they seem fine. The problem seems to be at the pump/motor connection. As a matter of fact, the pump is rusted tight to the motor, like there was a slow leak there for a long time and now it's been made worse by the toddler sock incident or me "fixing" it. I could try to pry the pump off, but it seems like I would break the plastic pump if I did.

So, I'm considering whether I should get a replacement pump and just trash the old one getting it off. Any suggestions on how to get a rusted-on pump off the motor? I have a feeling that I could superglue a small crack back together long enough to get the laundry done this weekend if I could get the darn thing off.

Thanks in advance.


#10 Pegi

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Posted 20 August 2005 - 05:57 PM

You will need to smash the pump off as it has been leaking for months, hammer and big flat blade screwdriver works well,  as the motor shaft has rusted and swollen inside of the pump.  Then remove the pump bearing from the shaft if it got stuck on there.  You will need to sand the shaft of the motor smoothe to install the new pump if it is not too damaged to take a new pump.  If the pump will not come off you will need to replace the pump and motor.  Slide a cookie sheet with sides under the pump to get you going for the weekend.   Do not glue the pump as this could cause the plastic to melt and 28 gallons of water sure looks like a lot when it pours out of the washer....
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#11 giacobe

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Posted 27 August 2005 - 05:35 AM

Ah, Peggy, you are so wise and correct!

I got a replacement pump on Monday ($35!) and pried the old pump off. I had to re-shape the shaft with a rasp because the oxidation had penetrated into the metal and deformed it.

The old pump had a crack in the socket where the drive shaft goes... just enough to dump plenty of water in the catch pan.... good thing we have that.

I finally got the pump back on and in place. Everything works great now!

Thank you so much for your help.

-- Nick

#12 Pegi

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Posted 27 August 2005 - 06:39 AM

Thanks Nick for letting us know this is repaired....I am wise about these because have replaced plenty of them that people let leak too long, but usually they do not know it is leaking till they are welded onto the motor shaft....Have a good day.....:cool:
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