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ljmom24

Frosted coils on Maytag MSD2756GEW

26 posts in this topic

I have a maytag MSD2756GEW...probably purchased in 2002.   It has always made some strange noises here and there, but  I guess I have been lucky because it has not had any defrost problems.  Until now, that is!  My coils are definitely frosted over.  I have read all of the posts regarding this, but am confused.  I tried the test and L1 short circuit and I did come up with a continuous clicking sound from the board; however, when I move the board around the clicking decreases or stops.  I don't know if this is normal.  And the refrigerator did not go into a defrost cycle.  So, how do I know if it is the board or the defrost heater that is bad?  I don't have any of the electrical testing equipment.

Thanks! 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

I'd start by getting access to the freezer coils (which you've already done since you reported that the coils were frosted over) and testing the defrost tstat and defrost heaters for continuity. Note that the defrost tstat needs to be at freezer temps before testing it or it'll read open.

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[user=49769]ljmom24[/user] wrote:

...  I tried the test and L1 short circuit and I did come up with a continuous clicking sound ...

was it a "buzzing" ?  (bad ADC Board) 

The newer ones are re-designed ...

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You can play the jumpy-clicky game with the ADC board if you like, but all that futzing around with the ADC board is really not necessary.  The defrost circuit consists of:  the defrost heaters, defrost tstat, and ADC board.  If you verify that the defrost heaters and defrost tstat are OK, then that only leaves the ADC board-- go ahead and replace it and be done with it.  

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I don't have the equipment to test the defrost heater and thermostat. And yes, I would say it was more of a buzzing than a clicking on the ADC board.

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[user=49769]ljmom24[/user] wrote:

I am a super-amateur repair person.  I don't even know what that means!  Haha.

What, "super-amateur?"  :flappin:

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To force Defrost on the Maytag new style ADC's (2003+) 

the Cold Control has to be cycled ON & OFF three times in less than six seconds, and left in the ON position.

Newer style ADC Board (no L1 & TEST, cover looks the same)

click on picture

00334461.jpg

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To prove just how "super-amateur" I really am (and for your amusement) I will tell you that I forgot to put the water filter back on last night before bed and left the ice-maker running.  I woke up to a small pond on my kitchen floor this morning!:shock:

So the best advice is to replace the ADC, right? And that is a simple 'unplug the old one, plug in the new one'?

Thanks!

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[user=49769]ljmom24[/user] wrote:

... replace the ADC, right? And that is a simple 'unplug the old one, plug in the new one'?

yes, (Fridge unplugged)

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At least buy a "Multimeter", makes life easier. :)

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RegUS_PatOff wrote:

[user=49769]ljmom24[/user] wrote:
...  I tried the test and L1 short circuit and I did come up with a continuous clicking sound ...
was it a "buzzing" ? (bad ADC Board

from: http://applianceguru.com/forum1/119-3.html  page 3 of 5   2005

RegUS_PatOff wrote:

I have a Maytag MSD2756AEW and had the same defrost problem.

I drew a schematic of the ADC and found the cause and fix for the "buzzing relay"

It's a bad electrolytic capacitor, C2,  22uF @50v

Try jumpering in a good one across it. (there is a protective coating over the entire board)

Watch the polarity and also be careful, the minus (-) side of the cap is connected to L1 120v HOT side of the power line.

I drew the schematic with MS Paint, .... here. MAYTAG ADC.pdf 

also, neither the compressor nor the defrost heater will work when the temp control is turned down (but the relay will still energize)  try it at max cooling setting.

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Sounds simple, but I'm sure it's not.  What kind of tools would I need and where would I get that part?

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normally Radio Shack, but they don't have that part...

and you'd need to be able to solder ....

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I am going to replace the whole ADC. I have seen the board that you reccomend, but there are others that are about 1/2 the price--how do I know which one is the right one? There is one with the part number 61005988 that I can get for about $35, but it looks different from the pics I see.

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61005988 is the part number, but if it looks different, it may be the older style board ...

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Thanks all...new part is in, freezer is defrosting nicely. :) Now I have another problem with the ice cube maker. It has been acting up for quite a while--the "teeth" (or whatever they're called)would get chunks of ice on them and then not fit through the slots so I would have to break off the chunks to get the icemaker to keep going. Also had the hollow ice cube problem that I read about elsewhere. Now the icemaker is working fine, but only making 4 ice cubes at a time. I am thinking it is not getting enough water, but don't know what to do about this. Also the water dispenser dispenses very slowly, but it has done this for a long time.

Thanks for any help you can offer!

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this sounds like a water supply problem. how is your fridge hooked up to your house water supply?

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Actually, I replaced the water filter and pumped the refrigerator button a few times. Heard some weird noises for awhile, but then the water began coming out at a normal rate and the icecube maker is working fine. Must have been a clog somewhere in the line!

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So the refrigerator repairman just came due to a recall on some part of my fridge.  When he pulled the fridge out, water was leaking from where the line attaches to the fridge.  He put a new valve or something on it and attached the copper pipe to the back of the fridge so that it would be more secure.  Now I only have a trickle of water to the fridge.  I took the flilter out and pushed the water dispesnser button, but only a trickle came out there also.  What do I do?

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did he try it out before he left ?

 

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Call him back

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But that was not what he came for in the first place, he just fixed that part to be a nice guy...and to be honest, the water was running pretty slow before, so this just seems to be an exacerbation of whatever problem was already there...a clog somewhere in the line maybe?

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