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Whirlpool Ice Maker Question


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14 replies to this topic

#1 bankerjohn

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Posted 17 April 2005 - 10:31 AM

Got a problem with my ice maker ... Whirlpool ED25DQXAW01. Ice maker was producing three (3) solid cubes, and the rest were just "skeleton" ice cubes (nothing in the middle). I figured out it wasn't getting sufficient water, so I pulled the fridg out, unplugged it, and removed the water valve.

First, I disconnected the water line from the valve (4318046) ... checked for a good flow ... seemed OK. (Water line is not connected to a saddle value, but rather to a 1/2" valve at the top of the water heater.)

Then I re-connected the water line and rigged a "cheater" cord to the ice maker solenoid and, while holding it over a bucket, plugged and unplugged it several times. Seemed to dispense water at a fairly good pace. (I didn't actually measure the volume of water dispensed in 7-9 seconds ... which I probably should have done.)

Next I blew through the plastic line going to the ice maker ... seemed to be open, although the line is pretty small in diameter, so not a LOT of air went thru.

Finding nothing that seemed to be wrong, I re-assembled everything and plugged the fridg back in ... and waited.

After several hours, all I'm still getting is about 3 full cubes each cycle! I even turned the water level adjustment screw 1 full turn counter-clickwise ... didn't seem to make any difference.

What is this humble grasshopper missing?


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#2 Mad Mac

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Posted 17 April 2005 - 11:37 AM

Hmm...standard older style icemaker, you've carried out all the obvious checks.

Posted Image

Start with the icemaker empty (no water/ice). What you need to do is unhook the icemaker from the freezer wall, but leave it electrically connected. Now, GENTLY turn the main gear clockwise as you would look at it from the front. It'll start cycling, measure the amount of water that comes out of the spout (should be about 4 oz), I used to carry an old baby's bottle for this purpose. You should also be able to hear how long the valve opens for which should, as you correctly point out, be 7-9 seconds. I suspect something's come adrift inside the mechanism and is not operating the valve for long enough.
Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere.

#3 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 18 April 2005 - 04:43 AM

What are you trying to do MadMac, have him break the icemaker.

If that diagram you posted is the correct one that is a module style icemaker, which hopefully he will read on the front gear (DO NOT TURN BY HAND!!!!!).


You must initiate the harvest cycle by jumping T-H to cycle this icemaker. (I know you know this MadMac, I'm sure it was just an oversight and you where thinking this is a much older style icemaker, which you would turn the gear or push the harvest rack to initiate a harvest cycle).

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 18 April 2005 - 04:50 AM

[user=36]Budget Appliance Repair[/user] wrote:

You must initiate the harvest cycle by jumping T-H to cycle this icemaker.

Correctum.  The manual harvest technique is explained/shown here.


#5 bankerjohn

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Posted 18 April 2005 - 05:00 AM

Actually, I didn't tell the whole story in my original post!

The ice maker that was in the fridge before I started working on it was the "modular" style ... but after I checked out the water valve, I swapped it out for one of the older "non-modular" style that I had previously salvaged from a neighbor's discarded fridge.  However, with that said, I don't think that even the older style ice maker was designed to have the gear moved by hand ... as I gently tried to give it a turn and found it did NOT budge!

Is there a way to initiate the harvest cycle on the older "non-modular" style ice make? (If not, I can put the original one back in and try jumpering "T" and "H" ...

Can I jumper "N" and "V" to open the fill valve? I realize that won't test the length of time that the valve is staying open, but it would give me an idea of the flow rate coming from the valve.


#6 Mad Mac

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Posted 18 April 2005 - 05:48 AM

OOPS!!!!! Something in there led me down the path of thinking this was an older-style I/M (probably the reference to an adjustment screw). As it turns out, it was, even though it wasn't.....I need a drink:yikes:
Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere.

#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 18 April 2005 - 05:50 AM

[user=13]Mad Mac[/user] wrote:

I need a drink:yikes:

Here, this one's on me:  :pint:


#8 bankerjohn

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Posted 18 April 2005 - 05:52 AM

[user=255]bankerjohn[/user] wrote:

Is there a way to initiate the harvest cycle on the older "non-modular" style ice make? (If not, I can put the original one back in and try jumpering "T" and "H" ...

Can I jumper "N" and "V" to open the fill valve? I realize that won't test the length of time that the valve is staying open, but it would give me an idea of the flow rate coming from the valve.

So how about my latest questions?


#9 Mad Mac

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Posted 18 April 2005 - 07:48 AM

[user=1]Samurai Appliance Repair Man[/user] wrote:

[user=13]Mad Mac[/user] wrote:

I need a drink:yikes:

Here, this one's on me: :pint:


Even looks like a pint of Guinness.

John, simplest idea would be to put the modular back in and try to initiate a cycle by jumping T and H, then see how much water you get. You may need to tape the door switch closed to fool it into thinking the door is closed,
Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere.

#10 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 19 April 2005 - 01:14 AM

[user=255]bankerjohn[/user] wrote:

[user=255]bankerjohn[/user] wrote:

Is there a way to initiate the harvest cycle on the older "non-modular" style ice make? (If not, I can put the original one back in and try jumpering "T" and "H" ...

Can I jumper "N" and "V" to open the fill valve? I realize that won't test the length of time that the valve is staying open, but it would give me an idea of the flow rate coming from the valve.

So how about my latest questions?


The old non-module sytle you give the harvest rack fingers a good push and harvest will start.

On the module style to test fill valve, jump "L" and "V", I think??? Guys, correct me if I'm wrong please.......


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#11 bankerjohn

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Posted 19 April 2005 - 02:55 AM

After putting the original "modular" IM back in the freezer, and jumpering "L" and "H", I've discovered two things:

(1) the teflon(?) finish on the mold is coming off in places, leading me to think that was what was causing a leak (and subsequent icicle at the rear of the IM) that I hadn't mentioned before, and

(2) regardless of what I saw as far as flow is concerned when checking out the water valve, it's only allowing about 1/4 of the needed volume of water into the IM

So ... this humble grasshopper is yielding to the DIY repair gods, and has ordered a new IM and water valve ... but thanks to all the responders for trying to keep this from happening!

Case closed ... I hope.


#12 Lurker_Bill_*

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Posted 23 May 2005 - 07:52 PM

I'm having similar problems with my modular IM, no cubes are being produced.

In order to check out the water supply, I disconnected the supply line at the point it enters the frezeer after the fill valve and ran it into a bucket. I then removed the leads to the fill valve and applied 110V. The fill valve openned and water was produced. This makes me think it is not the fill valve.

I reconnected the fill valve but left the hose running to the bucket. I then and jumpered N to M and the IM makes a complete cycle but no water came out of the hose. I also jumpered L to V, but did not cycle the IM. Same result no water flow out of the hose. I let this configuration sit over night but nothing changed.

What's the purpose of the jumper holes? I've only read about connecting N and M. I thought the L to V should have opened the fill valve like the way it did when 110V was directly applied.

I don't mind replacing either the fill valve or the IM as long as I know which one needs to be replaced.

Thanks!!!!

#13 bankerjohn

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Posted 23 May 2005 - 08:42 PM

After screwing around with both the old IM and the newer IM ... and the fill valve ... with no success in diagnosing the problem, I decided to go with replacing both the IM and the fill valve. Problem solved ... I now have normal operation.

I found the IM and the double fill valve (for units with water in the door) for only $54 including shipping ... figured it was cheaper than losing my mind!


#14 Lurker_Sal_*

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Posted 05 October 2005 - 07:20 PM

Where did you find the IM and fill valve for 54 bucks if you don't mind me asking.

#15 Lurker_bankerjohnfl_*

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Posted 06 October 2005 - 02:37 AM

eBay seller!




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