Posted 12 May 2009 - 10:01 AM
Posted 12 May 2009 - 11:41 AM
Thanks for the service manual link!
Posted 13 May 2009 - 02:52 AM
Posted 13 May 2009 - 04:49 AM
Thanks again for the replies!
Posted 19 May 2009 - 11:32 AM
Did you test it before you replaced it? If they're bad, they'll read open even when actuated. The suggestions offered by the Masters are to point you in the direction of suspects to test and confirm, not just replace a part and hope to get lucky. Any monkey boy can do that-- but let it never be so with you, my intrepid apprentice!
well - it isn't the door switch.....
Posted 19 May 2009 - 01:13 PM
1 - L1 to L3 should read 120VAC - If no 120VAC we need to trace back to the door switch wiring.
2 - L1 to M (while pushing start switch) should read 0VAC - If 120VAC timer contact is bad
3 - M to L3 (while pushing start switch) should read 120VAC
post your results
Posted 20 May 2009 - 09:12 AM
Posted 20 May 2009 - 05:24 PM
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