4 replies to this topic

[abeavens]

Having an intermittent problem trying to start the dishwasher. Every couple of days it will not respond to the Power Button (no lites, although a couple of times a group of them have flashed on when pushing the button). I have checked the ON/OFF and Door switches and all contacts appear to work properly. I have checked all connectors on the Control Board. Are there any voltages I can measure. On the two maintained contacts on the ON/OFF switch, I read 120VAC on one (middle with white wire) and 52VAC (door sw on) or 68VAC (door sw off) on the other. Just opened up the Control Module and found a dead cockroach on solder side of circuit board, but after proper burial, still no luck.

Any other info or tests?

Mahalo

Art

[RegUS_PatOff]

I don't have a wiring diagram for that model,
but I would think if the ON/OFF Switch was ON, there should be 120v on each side...
and 0v across the Switch

[abeavens]

I thought it might be the same also since the voltages seem strange. The middle contact does have 120VAC on both sides, but the left one changes (but is the same on both sides) when door switch is operated. Can you give any help finding a part since nothing seems to confirm a part for the SHE42L. I did find a part that looks like it at Repairclinic.com (1161532) but can't confirm it. Besides, it is not in stock.  

OK, here is new information. Doesn't look like a Control Module problem after all. I put it all back together and still no lites or action. As I pushed the door shut, a couple of lites flashed. I then pushed again on the door and it was actually rocking the unit and the lites came on correctly. Then letting it come back down, off they went. I was finally able to get it into a position where it worked. Seems like there must be some more switches and I am getting intermittent contact. I will pull the unit out next and look underneath for anything that can move when rocked. Does anyone know of other switches whick would give these symptoms?

[Budget Appliance Repair]

I would be looking at the door latch, (if it is the style that has microswitches), and check the wiring at the bottom of the door, (possible broken wires, maybe broken internally and not visible, will have to ohm out each wire).

[abeavens]

Well, the mystery has been solved. I removed the front panel so I could see where all of the wires went, and guess what I found all rolled up by the hinge. The schematic. This is what I was requesting in the first place. There I found that the 52 - 68 VAC really should have been 0VAC, so now I realized that it was the old FLOATING NEUTRAL trick. The unit had not been installed well and the board it was screwded into had come loose, that is why I could rock it. I pulled it all of the way out and found that AC plug was half out of the receptacle and cord kinked and being pushed against by the unit. There was melted mastic from back of the unit all over the plug. I installed a right angle plug type line cord and now all of our beer mugs are clean again. When I get close to a scanner again, I will send the schematic for the "Secret Stash".