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GE Monogram Refrigerator intermittent operation


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9 replies to this topic

#1 fixitman

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Posted 09 August 2005 - 12:03 PM

Built in refrigerator so it's hard to see things work. Have unit out and cleaned a lot of dust out of the condenser. I have a new defrost timer to put in and I notice that the timer lead connected to the black wire looks like it has burned or taken a very heavy power load. Have replaced the compressor twice in last 15 years.

If you recommend the defrost heater replacement...where the heck is it?

Thanks!

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#2 Pegi

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Posted 09 August 2005 - 12:45 PM




Model Number
Model Description
Brand


BCS42UJB
AIR CONDITIONER
GENERAL ELECTRIC

The model number says this is a room airconditioner....

But the defrost heaters in any ref. are at the bottom of the evaperator in the freezer, or yours might have 2 of them, one at the bottom and another half way up, but cannot tell since your model number seems to go to an A/C.

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#3 Jedi Appliance Guy

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Posted 09 August 2005 - 02:21 PM

    This might help you.   Open your mind and use the force.  Post your new questions here.

#4 fixitman

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Posted 10 August 2005 - 06:50 AM

This is the number off the unit and works when I look up parts on line: BCS42UJB Thanks for the advice on locating the heaters. Any other advice?


#5 Mad Mac

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Posted 10 August 2005 - 07:50 AM

http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/GE/00009345i01.gif

Defrost heater is part #7. Where the confusion appears to have arisen is that Sears.com refers to this as an "air conditioner"  - what we actually have here is the guts of a built-in. I got suspicious when I spotted the water valve (part #1)! GE part number for the heater is WR51X5211, which is apparently NLA, although RepairClinic.com shows it as a special order at $117.70.

Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere.

#6 Jedi Appliance Guy

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Posted 10 August 2005 - 02:22 PM

   I have never replaced a defrost heater on a Monogram.   How did your coil look? 

#7 fixitman

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Posted 18 August 2005 - 12:08 PM

Everything is clean. Replaced defrost timer, same problem. The refrigerator ran for 5 days and then quit. I opened up the old defrost timer and saw that the contacts were burned. Any idea of how to test the defrost heater? Which contacts to I test? I don't have a wiring diagram for this refrigerator. The defrost heater is +-$200. I am thinking of junking this machine rather than throwing more money at it! HELP!

#8 Mad Mac

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Posted 18 August 2005 - 01:00 PM

Where did you get the $200 price from? RepairClinic.com is still showing it as a special order at $117.70 (NLA elsewhere). Best thing is to go straight to the heater and ohm it out, although I'm inclined to think there's something else going on here. Given the fact that a lot of parts for this appear to be NLA, may be time to cut your losses.

Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere.

#9 Jedi Appliance Guy

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Posted 18 August 2005 - 06:03 PM

Ya didn't use the force. 

   Define "quit".  Are you saying the lights and fans stopped running and the fridge is totally silent.  Remember you are attempting to paint a picture with words here.

   I should have said "how did your evaporator coil look?".  Thats the coil that gets cold. Your condenser coil on top is the one you have to clean the dust off of. Thats the one that gets hot.

   Did you know you have a defrost thermostat in series with your defrost heater?   I have replaced them (defrost thermostats) one handed thru the fan hole rather than take it all apart and risk starting (or being blamed for) a drainage problem that is waiting to happen of the fridge anyway.


#10 fixitman

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Posted 19 August 2005 - 03:38 AM

I opened up the unit to look at the coil. It looked clean. The fans continue to run but it appears that the compressor quits. The refrigerator and freezer warm up and the ice in the icemaker melts.

I can't just turn it off and then back on. I have to turn it off, wait a day or so then turn it back on and it will work. I would think that if it was a faulty defrost heater and the coil was icing up that once it thawed out it would work right away.
I have tried advancing the defrost timer manually to no avail.

The problem is that this is a built in and a new one costs about $4,000. (Plus the hassle of moving the monster and fixing the cabinetry)

Some of my thoughts are:
1) The compressor is worn out.
2) The thermal overload on the compressor motor is tripping.
3) The defrost heater is bad causing all kinds of problems.

One final thought...when I first turn it on, for the first day or so, the air circulating around the condenser coil is rather cool. The unit cycles off periodically. As it approaches failure, the air seems to get hotter and the fans are running continuously

Thanks for all of your help!






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