16 replies to this topic

[RonN]

KitchenAid dishwasher KUDS03FTBT3 of only six months age has begun to smell awful. Here's what I've tried:

1. Sterilized water softener with chlorine bleach
2. Sterilized water heater with chlorine bleach
3. Sterilized drain line with chlorine bleach
4. Sterilized garbage disposer by using bleach, ice cubes and salt, and Drano at different times
5. Pulled dishwasher out to search for dead mouse and otherwise visually inspect
6. Fashioned a drain trap
7. Disassembled spray arms to look for stuck food
8. Used extra-hot water for wash and/or rinse
9. Changed brands of dishwashing detergent (from Great Value to Cascade)
10. Did cleanouts of dishwasher interior with vinegar and chlorine bleach at different times
11. Removed accumulator assembly and inlet protector to examine/clean chopper assembly

After any/all of the above, odor may disappear for one or two washings, then comes back. Called warranty repair. First guy’s theory was that we were putting our plates in “too clean,” thus the sensing unit doesn’t add enough water (but why didn't it then stink from day one?). Second call to warranty brought the response “Sorry, warranty doesn’t cover odor.” No odor in washing machine or anywhere else that uses water.

Installation meets manufacurer’s specifications for height of drain line above the floor to drain into garbage disposer. There is no "air gap," but there wasn't one with the previous dishwasher (which died after five years), and we never had an odor problem with it. House was built six years ago.

So...what do I try next?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

[user=53724]RonN[/user] wrote:

6. Fashioned a drain trap
.
.
.
There is no "air gap," but there wasn't one with the previous dishwasher (which died after five years), and we never had an odor problem with it.

Could you elaborate on the drain trap?

Previous dishwasher may have had a built-in check valve and may not have needed an air gap.

[RonN]

I pulled the drain hose down to be a bit lower than its exit into the garbage disposer. I can post a photo if you wish.

Old dishwasher (Kenmore) and new dishwasher (KitchenAid) are virtually identical. This dawned on me when the installer had the two of them laying on their sides out in the yard. I looked at their underneath sides and they were identical in wiring, motor, layout, etc. I said, "Looks like I already had a KitchenAid." He said, "Well, what you probably had was a Whirlpool/KitchenAid since Whirlpool owns KitchenAid." Sure enough, registering the KitchenAid warranty took me to the Whirlpool web site.

The installation instructions offer "air gap" as one acceptable configuration. The current installation matches one of the other configurations. This was confirmed by the A&E Factory Service warranty guy. Thus the lack of an air gap has not resulted in stinkiness for 5 and 1/2 years. Hmmm.

[RonN]

Also, this model does indeed have a check valve (part number 8268375). It's in KitchenAid's pdf "Repair Part List - W10202042." I would attach the pdf here, but it violates the size limitation.

[nickfixit]

Did your new installation use one of those braided flex hoses for the water supply?

Is it a stainlees steel tub or plastic?

[RegUS_PatOff]

[user=53724]RonN[/user] wrote:

Also, this model does indeed have a check valve (part number 8268375). It's in KitchenAid's pdf "Repair Part List - W10202042." I would attach the pdf here, but it violates the size limitation.

for reference

check valve 8268375

item #5 page 7 & 8

link to Repair Part List - W10202042

click on picture

[RonN]

Yep, that's it. Seems to be made out of rubber, mounted vertically. I noticed it yesterday while I had the inlet protector removed to inspect the chopper assembly. I didn't pull the check valve out to inspect it, but I slipped a case knife down either side of it to make sure it had not become "stuck" either to the left or to the right.

You guys ever notice how hard it is to find a repair guy who is a "true diagnostician" rather than a mere "parts replacer"? I've noticed that previously with auto mechanics; now I'm noticing it with appliance repair. (No offense, of course, to the diagnosticians on this forum!) :D

[RonN]

[user=425]nickfixit[/user] wrote:

Did your new installation use one of those braided flex hoses for the water supply?

Is it a stainlees steel tub or plastic?

The water supply line into the dishwasher is copper, just like the plumbing throughout the house.

Stainless steel tub.

[RegUS_PatOff]

[user=53724]RonN[/user] wrote:

... You guys ever notice how hard it is to find a repair guy who is a "true diagnostician" rather than a mere "parts replacer"? I've noticed that previously with auto mechanics ...

I'm not condoning it, but sometimes it's faster, easier, cheaper,

Depending on what's worth more to you and the customer, time or money ...

Just like expidited shipping costs $$$

and can they survive with the appliance being down ?

It may be better to replace a few parts in the machine at the same time to save labor in the future (preventive maintenance)
as long as you're sure it'll at least repair the original problem.

[RonN]

[user=3641]RegUS_PatOff[/user] wrote:

I'm not condoning it, but sometimes it's faster, easier, cheaper,

Depending on what's worth more to you and the customer, time or money ...

I agree. Recently had a computer crash due to Windows problems. Was faster & cheaper for me just to have them wipe the hard drive and reinstall Windows entirely rather than try to spend (perhaps many) hours tracking down exactly which Windows file was the issue. Ah, life.

[grey shrek]

From my training (at least I think I had some) the drain hose should go up as high as posible under the cupboard and then into the connection on the garberator. Also , the plastic drain hose that connects to the first drain hose has a check valve in it. At least I think it is in the second drain hose. I do remember you can not blow backwards thru one of them. If they subbed to a rubber hose , throw it away and go get the plastic corrugated as supplied.

[denrayr]

the pump should be taken apart and inspected for old food that is stuck. The upper filter doesnt get rinsed on the underside very well and can grow some nasty slime, you may also have a chopper that isnt scraping the food off of the strainer. the other common place for slime is behind the manifold that supplies water to the upper arm.

[denrayr]

i also wanted to say i get more odd smell complaints from stainless steel tanks than i do with plastic ones.

[RonN]

Thanks grey one and denrayr. I think I may have fixed it, as I have now run two loads without odor. The check valve may have been stuck open, and my poking at it with the case knife may have unstuck it. Plus, I ran Drano Max Commercial Line through it while I had the accumulator assembly apart; don't know if that's exactly "recommended," but one gets desperate with a crabby wife on hand. The test will be, I think, if the smell comes back within a week.

Drain line is corrugated plastic, attached as high as possible up under the sink (at least 20 inches above the floor).

[RonN]

The combination of fooling around with the check valve and running Drano through the dishwasher worked marvelously well--for five days. Now the odor is back. Oh well, "once more into the breach." (Or is it "breech"? Could go either way on that one.)

:headbang:

[denrayr]

does it smell at the end of a cycle when everything should be clean? what type of smell is it? what kind of detergent are you using? does the dishwasher actually clean the dishes? is it filling with enough water?

[RegUS_PatOff]

is it draining between Cycles and refilling OK ?