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      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

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OldSchool

Hotpoint Frig HSS22iFMBWW

4 posts in this topic

I think I have double trouble.

1. Icemaker sticks in harvest mode (led blinking).

2. Freezer warms up.

3. Turning off icemaker does not restart freezer section.

4. Freezer has heavy frost on front of back wall, but no clear ice. I haven't removed evap panel yet.

Original problem was "no ice." The water valve is good. I cleaned scale deposit off 2 micro-switches in icemaker asm. Still no ice, and now the freezer overheats. Owner says this was the same problem before the icemaker quit completely. Owner has been manually defrosting for awhile, but it's only become obvious problem since humid summer weather began.

Owner opts to "lubricate" icemaker assembly and troubleshoot/bid defrost repair. My problem is as an old school kinda' guy I don't know how to initiate defrost on a frig with motherboard. :? Thanks for tips.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

The ice maker probably stopped working because the freezer is too warm for it to work, but you might have 2 different problems.  You might need to replace the ice maker also if the light is blinking.  You will need to see what is out in the defrost system, board, thermister, or defrost heaters.  There is no way to put this board into defrost, can only test the defrost system on the board to see if it is going into defrost. Best bet is to test the defrost heaters and the thermister in the freezer after you remove the rear panel and dig them out of the ice.

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Continuity testing the heaters isn't too tough. Troubleshooting thermistors can be a little more tricky. Usually they have an acceptable resistance range. But you're saying there is a defrost "test" button on the motherboard?

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 The best way to determine what has caused a non defrosting GE electronic control model is to first access the control board. Jump terminals line power to defrost, (J4 and J9). An amp probe should be placed on this jumper wire to determine current draw of the defrost circuit. A three amp draw is what is normal for this circuit. This will eliminate checking behind the evaporator cover to determine a defective heater or over temp device (defrost terminator). Note: This test is only to check the defrost circuit. It does not initiate a defrost cycle. If the unit is in any other cycle than defrost, that cycle will continue to operate as well

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