Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

Maytag range/oven


  • This topic is locked This topic is locked
41 replies to this topic

#1 appliance1owner0

appliance1owner0

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 2 posts

Posted 17 April 2005 - 05:26 PM

After self cleaning F1 fault code appeared. Replaced clock module as described and purchased from  repairclinic.com and still have exactly same problem. Could I have a faulty clock module or could it be something else, thanks.

Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,064 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 17 April 2005 - 05:30 PM

The oven temperature sensor was the original problem. It's possible that it took out the ERC (clock module) when it went.

#3 appliance1owner0

appliance1owner0

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 2 posts

Posted 17 April 2005 - 05:38 PM

Thanks. I checked the resistence and its 2748 ohms at room temp. Based on the link you sent it looks too high. I guess i'll get a new sensor try my original ERC and see how things work

#4 The Seven

The Seven

    Sōhei

  • Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 190 posts

Posted 17 April 2005 - 06:28 PM

[user=265]appliance1owner0[/user] wrote:

After self cleaning F1 fault code appeared.

I checked the resistence and its 2748 ohms at room temp.


Another instance that the "oven temperature sensor" is damaged by "self clean" cycle.:(



Note my previous post on {dual wall mount oven with f2 code} date: Thu Mar 31st, 2005 00:20

"It appears that some ovens with ERC (electronic range control) will most likely to have some problems after self-clean cycle. These ovens use mainly oven temperature sensors.

Some of the following information from some web-sites could give us some insight "why":

(1) The temperature of the oven is very high (about 850 deg F (450 deg C)) during the self-clean cycle.

(2) The operating temperature range for NTC thermistors is from -100°C to + 300°C.

(3) Metal RTD's (Resistance Thermometer Device) offer a wide temperature range from -260°C to +850°C. But Metal RTD's are more fragile than NTC thermistors.


My comments:

If they use NTC thermistors as oven temperature sensors, the high temperture during self-clean cycle will easily damage the thermistor-type sensors.

If they use Metal RTD's (as most are), they could stand the high temperture. However, Metal RTD's are very fragile because they are constructed with fine wire to obtain about 1000 ohm at 70 deg F. The expansion and contraction due to large temperature change (from 70 to 850 deg F) could break (or short-circuit) the fine wire.
"

The Seven

#5 partsiam

partsiam

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 1 posts

Posted 21 April 2005 - 04:37 PM

hi - i'm new to your forum and have read many pages on your site. i have learned much about my stove (magic chef ces3670aab) in the past week. i searched for info because i too had an f1 error and have mechanical/electrical repair capabilities. several sites mentioned the erc being bad so i purchased a new one from my local distributor. i should mention that i tried all the obvious fixes, power off, cancel button, etc., to no avail. so i installed a new erc and membrane assy ($130) and hoped upon all hopes that it was indeed the problem. i restored power, kept my fibgers crossed and........beep beep beep beep F1....arrrggghhhh..

i got in touch with the parts distributor to tell them all i've done and that i believe the new erc they sent was defective. they appologized and shipped another unit free of charge - told me to scrap the old one - but i'm leary of installing a new erc after reading the posts here.

the temp sensor fault makes sense - but i have to ask - where is it located? i noticed when i pulled the front panel off to replace the erc that there was a small cylindrical object, about the size of a film container, located on the top surface of the stove wall. it has two wires going to it. i suspect this is the sensor but am looking for guidance.

something else that seems to be odd - i was cooking rice on the burner and after tapping the spoon on the pan the f1 reset itself from the tapping and then went back to f1 again. this happened a couple of times but it never reset itself for any more than 10 - 15 seconds.

well - long winded i know - but i thought you should have as much info as possible to be able to guide me.

 

 


#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,064 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 21 April 2005 - 04:49 PM

[user=318]partsiam[/user] wrote:

so i installed a new erc and membrane assy ($130) and hoped upon all hopes that it was indeed the problem. i restored power, kept my fibgers crossed and........beep beep beep beep F1....arrrggghhhh..

 

They were probably never the problem in the first place.  Only once have I ever recieved a bad ERC and I have never received a bad membrane switch. 

 

the temp sensor fault makes sense - but i have to ask - where is it located? i noticed when i pulled the front panel off to replace the erc that there was a small cylindrical object, about the size of a film container, located on the top surface of the stove wall. it has two wires going to it. i suspect this is the sensor but am looking for guidance.


 That cylindrical object is the sensor.  It's two wires connect to the ERC.  You can remove those wires from the ERC and test the resistance of the sensor using your ohm meter.  The sensor was most likely the problem all along-- much less expensive part than either the ERC or the membrane switch.

You should return the unneeded replacement ERC to your vendor-- it's an Honor kind of a deal, you know.




#7 asteysn2

asteysn2

    Asteysn2

  • Sublime Master of Appliantology
  • PipPipPip
  • 209 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Newcastle, Watneys, Stone's IPA

Posted 23 April 2005 - 09:39 PM

I think that round cylindrical object about the size of a film canister is your flourescent lamp's start capacitor, not related to your situation. The temp sensor has 2 wires eminating from the end of a long (3-6 in.) and narrow (1/4 in.) tube and it resides in the upper portion of the oven cavity
Robert Sankey
Coastal Appliance, Heating & Air
Website: www.coastalappliances.com
email: coastalserve@gmail.com

#8 rbtconsultants

rbtconsultants

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 2 posts

Posted 07 July 2005 - 03:09 PM

I have a Jennair Range, which appears to be a Maytag. Today it started beeping F1. It was not self cleaned or even in use when this started.

Before I get a new membrane or ERC, I'd like to know whether to get the temperature sensor.

If I actually turn the oven on and allow it to preheat, the beeping turns off for a while until I turn it off and the oven cools down and then the beeping resumes. Cutting power or pushing buttons turns it off for a few seconds. Could this be the temperature sensor or should I be looking to replace other components? There is a site that recommends unplugging the ERC to see if the beeping stops so I can identify if it is the membrane or the ERC and it mentions that in "newer" ranges it can be the temperature sensor. This range was purchased new in 1997 so I dont know if it is "newer" or not.

Your help is appreciated.

Bob

 


#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,064 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 07 July 2005 - 03:15 PM

Always a good idea to test the sensor:

http://fixitnow.com/...temperature.htm

#10 nh_wayne

nh_wayne

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 1 posts

Posted 12 July 2005 - 06:41 AM

The easiest solution is to install a switch on the back of the stove. This is a pretty straight forward thing to do. Unplug unit, remove back cover, find 110 volts in, add switch loop to control the power. Drill hole in back cover to mount switch. Reassemble. Done.

So when it beeps, just shut it off. Then turn it back on when it's time to cook or bake.

Cost of repair is under $5.

Good luck!

#11 rbtconsultants

rbtconsultants

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 2 posts

Posted 12 July 2005 - 01:56 PM

I like that answer. I think this is like the "check engine light" on cars, where yoo have to pay money to turn off the light, now I have to pay money to turn off the beeping.

Anyway (knock on wood) I turned off the power to it in the breaker box until I could get around to fixing it. My wife turned the power back on while I was at work and used it to bake muffins, and it hasn't beeped since  :-)

Bob


#12 Wolf

Wolf

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 4 posts

Posted 17 July 2005 - 07:54 AM

Originaly posted this in the wrong place, so here it now:


My wife did the self clean thing, now we have the F1 code, as well as a locked oven door. After opening the back to gain access to the clock board, and removing the flat cable, power back on and I get the beeps and F1 code still. After reading here and elsewhere, I tend to think it's the temp sensor. But the oven door is locked! So, is there a trick to get it open so I can check the sensor?

BTW, this has been the best site I have visited regarding my problem. It will be even better if I can get the oven fixed because of this site.

John

Jenn-air range model JGR8855ADS



FOLLOW-UP:

OKAY! It works! Here's what I did. I opened the door with a coat hangar (very quick and easy), the latch was at the top in the center and was locked to the right (facing the front of the door), and it was spring loaded.

Removed the temp sensor and took a ohm reading, 24k! So I replaced the sensor (a shop in town was open today, Sunday) and plugged in the power cord. Voila! The door latch slowly retracted and all is good.


Attached Files

  • Attached File  ts.jpg   5.41KB   262 downloads


#13 dhitchco

dhitchco

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 5 posts

Posted 07 September 2005 - 02:50 PM

Ah sooooo.

Latest saga in Jenn-Air Wall Oven needs master help. Geting the infamous "F1" code especially after using oven to cook (what else....). F1 code comes on about 1/2 hour after breaker reset or after cooking.

1) Oven temperature sensor measures about 1,200 ohms...so ok

2) Disconnect membrane panel from Robertshaw ERC control clock. Ah so, now no "F1" code, so must be membrane.

Now comes big trouble grasshopper! I need "series number" for oven. Problem is that there is no serial number data plate. Ok, now I find it. It's UPSIDE DOWN on TOP lip of oven door, must crawl on floor to see. But, again, only a serial number, not a "series number"

Please help order correct (very expensive part)...
Jenn-Air W131B wall oven
Serial # 13785301KK
I think it's a series "11" as it's about 10 years old

Anyways, two possible parts to replace membrane are:
701518
713069

Preeze hep me to decide?

#14 Budget Appliance Repair

Budget Appliance Repair

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,727 posts

Posted 08 September 2005 - 01:04 AM

You do need the one for the series 11, yours is actually a series 13, (the first two numbers of the serial #).

To deside which to use you always use the one marked for a series closest to yours without going over, the other part is for a series 16, so you use the one for series 11 for anything up to series 15.

Here's the one you need: 7721P041-60 touch pad control panel CLICK HERE to order
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#15 dhitchco

dhitchco

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 5 posts

Posted 08 September 2005 - 02:23 AM

Thanks "master" Willie,

Will do. Since the control touch panel is such an expensive part, did I do the correct diagnostic by disconnecting the clock ribbon cable to prove that it is NOT the clock module. I'd hate to replace both the membrane switch and the clock module; I could buy a new stove for that much!

By the way, I put the whole thing back together last night and thus far, no F1 code at all. What gives? Seems to be a random occurance, or only after the oven gets hot.

#16 pgoelz

pgoelz

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 2 posts

Posted 08 September 2005 - 06:05 AM

Hi guys, just found this forum.

We have an Admiral range that came with the house.  About five or so years ago, it started beeping intermittently and displaying F1.  After research, we replaced the keypad assembly, which fixed it.  Until now.  We just returned from a week out of town, to find it once again beeping and displaying F1.  Pressing the RESET button stopped it for a couple hours, and then it started again.  Pressing RESET a couple more times stopped it, and it has now gone a couple days without beeping. 

I called Maytag to complain and basically give them a piece of my mind (even though I do not think they actually made this particular range) and we got as far as them considering sending me a replacement part for free.... only to find that the part is no longer available. 

So my question is.... any words of wisdom here?  I hate the junk the stove.... we like it better than the new ones we looked at the last time this happened.  But I really don't want to sink yet another $100 - $150 into it if there is a continuing failure issue.  I will check out the temperature sensor and see if it is maybe intermittent.  But this smells more like an ERC watchdog problem.  If it isn't the sensor, has anyone found the actual cause of the problem an dfixed it? 

Paul


#17 Pegi

Pegi

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,120 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Sweet Iced Tea

Posted 08 September 2005 - 06:45 AM

These can be rebuilt, what is the part number for the ERC??
Buy your parts here! Posted ImagePosted ImageRead More

If we helped you kick some appliance bootay and saved you some coin, consider helping' us keep the lights on ==> http://beer.fixitnow.com

Are you a Master Appliantologist? ==> http://appliantology...ppliantologist/

#18 Pegi

Pegi

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,120 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Sweet Iced Tea

Posted 08 September 2005 - 06:49 AM

http://www.cgiltd.com/   This is where service repair shops have these rebuilt...
Buy your parts here! Posted ImagePosted ImageRead More

If we helped you kick some appliance bootay and saved you some coin, consider helping' us keep the lights on ==> http://beer.fixitnow.com

Are you a Master Appliantologist? ==> http://appliantology...ppliantologist/

#19 pgoelz

pgoelz

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 2 posts

Posted 08 September 2005 - 10:02 AM

Thanks for the link to the repair station.  I may check them out if I decide to sink more money into the stove.  But what I was really asking was if anyone had any idea what exactly was causing the dreaded F1 error in the first place.  In my case at least, it seems to be very random and infrequent.  That does not "feel" like a sensor or touchpad issue to me.  More like something wrong with the electronic module itself.  I have seen several references to the watchdog timer causing an F1 error.  And I am particularly suspicious of the power supply filtering. 

This whole episode has left me yearning for a good old fashioned mechanical stove.  Aside from possibly better temperature control and pilotless ignition, I can't see any real advantage to the electronics in my stove.  But all I see are stoves with electronics.  And they seem to me to be perfect candidates for the same fate as my Admiral.....

Paul


#20 dhitchco

dhitchco

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 5 posts

Posted 08 September 2005 - 10:53 AM

Paul,

I too am in the midst of diagnising the dreaded Fi fault on a Jenn-Air wall oven and then repairing the various part(s) that might be at fault.

I doubt that I will ever understand "how" or "why" this got started, but I do have a good friend whose house was struck by lightning and 100% of his "digital" appliances (washer, dryer, range, ovem, microwave, stereo, etc) all 100% were zapped.

Although I'm sure that the manufacturers build some sort of surge suppression into their products, I do NOT see any real good protection built into my oven's ERC timer (built by Robertshaw controls).  Plus, the entire clock circuit is in an environment (above the oven) that gets pretty warm, so i can see why it failed.

Now, if someone would only tell me whether it's the membrane or the clock; too many decisions to spend so many dollars!





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics