Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Begin your journey to appliance repair mastery...

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
appliance1owner0

Maytag range/oven

42 posts in this topic

F1  Defective touch pad or membrane.

1.   Replace touch pad or membrane (usually the touch pad).

 

F1  Watchdog on board.

1.   Replace touch pad.

2.   Or clock assembly (also called the ERC).

_________________________________________________________________

F5  Hardware and watchdog circuits disagree.

1.   Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC).

_____________________________________________________________

* Here is a simple test that you can do to determine whether the clock or the touchpad are defective when the display reads F1:

1.  Disconnect power to the range.

2.  Gain access to the back of the ERC or "clock").

3.  Unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC. This will be a flat wire about 1 ½" to 2" wide.

4.  Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when power is turned back on.

5.   Replace any covers removed to gain access to the ERC.

6.  Turn the power back on to the range.

7.  Watch for the F-1 and listen for the beep.

8.  If you get the F-1 and beep, replace the ERC.

9.  If after approximately 60 Minutes you do not get the F-1 fault, replace the touch pad.

NOTE: Some models incorporate the touch pad and the clock control as one part so F1 would mean you would have to replace the clock/timer control.

Warning: If you do not feel comfortable doing this test or making this repair please contact a qualified appliance repair technician. 

 

[align=center]btzhsepa.gif

[/align]

These are for Maytag ranges...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Thanks to give me answer so fast!

 

But if the F5 code only appear when the oven is on, can I will be able to put it on if the touchpad is disconected?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That I do not know, perhaps someone else can help with that question...;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

iDid the fact that the word LOCK ON did not appear when I lock means something?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

[user=4919]prosak[/user] wrote:

iDid the fact that the word LOCK ON did not appear when I lock means something?

Did the fact that the word LOCK ON did not appear when I lock the door means something?

 

Sorry for the missing words, and why can't we edit our messages?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On your range, the touchpad and ERC are sold as one unit.

I had to disable editing because grasshoppers were going back and editing their posts after replies were posted making the replies look inappropriate and disrupting the flow of the thread. I don't know what the hell people are thinking when they do that, but that's life in Lobotomy Lane.

Since you asked about it, I'll promote you to an Apprentice Appliantologist, which confers editing privileges on you. Congratulations!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I experienced the same fault code issue as you did with the same model Jenn-Air range, followed your directions for unlocking the door, replaced the oven temperature sensor and all is great! The F1 fault code does not always mean the ECM needs to be replaced. Thanks so much for sharing your experience. You saved me a whole lot of time and heartache!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all,

I just want to share my experience with the F1 error.

I have a GE self-clean oven, 2.5 years old. It started with the F1 long time ago, rarely during baking. Didn't bother us much, since it was going away in a minute or so.

But with the time the frequency of the F1s increased, until after the last self-cleaning my wife did, it started to refuse backing completely.

After some reading I decided to test the temperature sensor (250CAD for the ERC is a lot). I opened the back and found a sheet saying that:

F1 may mean excessive oven temperature(plus two other problems)

Which was another hint that it may be the sensor.

I measured the resistance - 1100 ohms??? I thought I need to buy an ERC.

But after I started the oven and it reached 550F, it gave the F1.

The resistance was well over 5000.

Measured again after it cooled a bit - 6000, again - 7000.

it reached 8000+. Well after the temperature peak.

An hour after - it was 2000.

I am replacing it.

So it all seems logical to me now. If one gets F error in the middle of backing, the temperature sensor should be checked. At different temperatures.

And just to comply with the rules - the model number is GRSR3920ZWW-4.

Thanks for all the info you've put on you site,

Nick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We have a Maytag Gemini double oven. A few years back, we got an F1-1 code that was easily fixed by replacing the temperature sensor. A few weeks ago (again after a self-clean cycle) the F1-1 code reappeared. This time unfortuantely replacing the sensor seems to have been only a temporary solution.

The code disappeared for a couple of weeks and then reappeared last week. It went away by itself again and now seems to be working.

Is it possible that the new sensor is bad or do the symptoms point to a failure of the control panel. I am not eager to spend $220 dollars to try fix the oven if I don't have to. If the problem is the control panel, is there anything that can be done to fix it?

Take Care

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Make certain that the sensor connection is good, sometimes the plastic connector will melt against a hot surface leaving a poor connection or wokkel kontaact behind. Also since the Gemini has 2 ovens and sensors, check both

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Will do when I get home tonight. The problems seem to be restricted to the upper oven so up till now I have focused on the upper oven temperature sensor.

He is the typical sequence of events. Turn oven on. It preheats successfully to 350F. Put food in. Come back in 20-30 minute and oven is flashing F1-1 code, oven has no heat and indicating that we have to call a 800 number. Hit the cancel button and the F1-1 code usually goes away. Sometimes you have to do this several times but eventually the code goes away atleast until the next occurence.

Bottom oven seems to work fine.

I took a close look at the connectors to the temperature sensor. They looked ok. and resistance seemed to test ok across the sensor and where it connects to the circuit board.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is also a plastic connector(plug) behind the oven where the sensor leads travel through, if this connector comes in contact with a hot surface it can melt - i will often cut the plastic plugs off and make a good connection by stripping the wiring and securing with a ceramic marette connector - start the oven with the rear panel open and wiggle and tug on the leads while it operates and this may cause the range to go into the failure mode

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That seems like a good idea. Although the sensor is new, the leads going from the sensor plug to the circuit board are original. Perhaps that connector is the problem.

Trying to get it to fail by wiggling the cable may be a good test.

Where would I get some of the ceramic connectors you mention?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Electrical or appliance store - you don't necessarily need ceramic ones, as long as the connection is good, and the connectors are secured away from any hot surfaces

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ijourneaux,

If it turns out to be the ERC you may want to check out our website. We repair ERCs. We see a lot of intermittent F1 error cases (of course the meaning of F1 varies between models) but often they are caused by a component that fails in the safety circuit that controls the "DBL" (double break relay). We fully test the ERC and replace components that typically fail or are near end-of-life. We check the temperature calibration and we measure the contact resistance of the relays to help determine their condition.

It's not unusual for the F1 code to start randomly, then become more frequent over time and eventually become permanent.

Regards,

Bruce

www.fixyourboard.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

[user=50450]fixyourboard[/user] wrote:

If it turns out to be the ERC you may want to check out our website. We repair ERCs.

.

.

.

www.fixyourboard.com

Nice site, Bruce! Glad to know about you guys.

Welcome to our dojo, looking forward to seeing more of your art. :dude:

(PS - Have to close this old topic because it's unsecured.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.