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Maytag range/oven


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41 replies to this topic

#21 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 09 September 2005 - 12:22 AM

You're going to have to hope another master can help you with deciding if you F1 is touchpad or ERC related. I'm not that good without having the codes and being there to check the things.

Usually the test you did, unplugging the touch pad and not getting the code does confirm touchpad is problem.

One thing good about ordering your parts from RepairClinc which this site links to for parts ordering is that you can
return any part for a full refund, (less shipping of coarse), if it doesn't fix your problem, (even electrical parts, which I've never in my life seen any other company do).
William Burk (Willie)
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#22 Lurker_Doug in Vancouver_*

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Posted 26 November 2005 - 07:16 AM

We have a 2 year old GE electronic stove/oven (from Canada). The F1 code appears, with accompanying beeps, upon turning on the oven (using BAKE). It does not happen immediately, but after about 20 seconds have passed.

I have tried to resolve the matter by resetting the power - did not work. I am thinking I should cut the power, disconnect the keypad ribbon from the electronic module and power up again. Does anyone think this is a valid troubleshooting option for GEs?

Is the temperature sensor on GEs prone to failure? Are they prone to damage if touched (bumped)?

#23 Pegi

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Posted 26 November 2005 - 07:34 AM

Error codes for GE ranges...the tech sheet located within your range will give you the ones for yours...and diagnostic help...

Failure Code Condition Check/Repair
 
F0 or F1 Failed transistor in control.
1.  If code cannot be cancelled, replace the Electronic Range Control (ERC) or touch pad.
 
_____________________________________________________________


F0 - F1 - F7 Stuck keypad may mean relay is turned on. Determine if problem is with the Key Panel or Control by:
1. Pushing CLEAR/OFF pad.
2. Disconnecting Ribbon Cable from control and waiting at least 32 seconds to see if Code recurs.
3. If code recurs, problem is in the control. Replace Control.
4. If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel.

________________________________________________________________

 

F0 and F1 Failed Thermistor Control
1.  Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC

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#24 Lurker_Doug in Vancouver_*

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Posted 27 November 2005 - 11:20 AM

Pegi, the GE manual and schematic do not mention the error codes or what they mean. Here is an update...

This model does *not* have a ribon cable connecting the keypad with the control module. The boards are connected by way of stiff wire soldered board-to-board (there must be an electronics term for that). What I have done is disconnect several of the wires and reseat them, including the temp probe. Of course the electricity was cycled at the breaker.

The oven now seems to work; although my wife claims that it gave the F1 code one more time.

For the info of anyone wanting to know, I obtained a quote in Canadian dollars for parts from a local supplier. These are not the lowest prices, but just a single quote.

Temp sensor... $50.25
Electronic module... $236.97 (wow)
Touchpad/keypad... $25.65

Anyway, I guess we are in wait-and-see mode regarding any further sign of 'F1'.

#25 prosak

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 04:19 PM

Hello guys,

I have a Maytag oven model # CRE9500ADE, Serial # 10001685HF serie 11, with a fault code F5 that appear each time I use the oven.

I just want to be certain that I need to replace the ERC module and not something else!

I wondering if the fact that the word LOCK, when I put the hatch door lock on,  did not appear anymore on my ERC, if  it can be only this switch.

Thanks for helping me!

Ho and before the F5 code it was the F1 code, so I replace the Temp sensor but did not work :-(


#26 Pegi

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 04:27 PM


F1  Defective touch pad or membrane.
1.   Replace touch pad or membrane (usually the touch pad).
 
F1  Watchdog on board.
1.   Replace touch pad.
2.   Or clock assembly (also called the ERC).

_________________________________________________________________

F5  Hardware and watchdog circuits disagree.
1.   Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC).

_____________________________________________________________


* Here is a simple test that you can do to determine whether the clock or the touchpad are defective when the display reads F1:

1.  Disconnect power to the range.
2.  Gain access to the back of the ERC or "clock").
3.  Unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC. This will be a flat wire about 1 ½" to 2" wide.
4.  Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when power is turned back on.
5.   Replace any covers removed to gain access to the ERC.
6.  Turn the power back on to the range.
7.  Watch for the F-1 and listen for the beep.
8.  If you get the F-1 and beep, replace the ERC.
9.  If after approximately 60 Minutes you do not get the F-1 fault, replace the touch pad.

NOTE: Some models incorporate the touch pad and the clock control as one part so F1 would mean you would have to replace the clock/timer control.

Warning: If you do not feel comfortable doing this test or making this repair please contact a qualified appliance repair technician. 
 


[align=center]Posted Image
[/align]
These are for Maytag ranges...

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#27 prosak

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 04:32 PM

Thanks to give me answer so fast!

 

But if the F5 code only appear when the oven is on, can I will be able to put it on if the touchpad is disconected?


#28 prosak

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 04:37 PM

Ho and if my touchpad or ERC is exactly like this one:  http://www.repaircli...ccPartID=709244

Do that means that the touchpad and ERC comes together?

 

 


#29 Pegi

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 04:37 PM

That I do not know, perhaps someone else can help with that question...;)
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#30 prosak

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 05:00 PM

iDid the fact that the word LOCK ON did not appear when I lock means something?

#31 prosak

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 05:22 PM

[user=4919]prosak[/user] wrote:

iDid the fact that the word LOCK ON did not appear when I lock means something?

Did the fact that the word LOCK ON did not appear when I lock the door means something?

 

Sorry for the missing words, and why can't we edit our messages?


#32 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 07:01 PM

On your range, the touchpad and ERC are sold as one unit.

I had to disable editing because grasshoppers were going back and editing their posts after replies were posted making the replies look inappropriate and disrupting the flow of the thread. I don't know what the hell people are thinking when they do that, but that's life in Lobotomy Lane.

Since you asked about it, I'll promote you to an Apprentice Appliantologist, which confers editing privileges on you. Congratulations!

#33 ccmacy

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Posted 20 January 2006 - 10:19 AM

I experienced the same fault code issue as you did with the same model Jenn-Air range, followed your directions for unlocking the door, replaced the oven temperature sensor and all is great! The F1 fault code does not always mean the ECM needs to be replaced. Thanks so much for sharing your experience. You saved me a whole lot of time and heartache!

#34 nikiml

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Posted 31 August 2006 - 09:27 AM

Hi all,

I just want to share my experience with the F1 error.
I have a GE self-clean oven, 2.5 years old. It started with the F1 long time ago, rarely during baking. Didn't bother us much, since it was going away in a minute or so.
But with the time the frequency of the F1s increased, until after the last self-cleaning my wife did, it started to refuse backing completely.

After some reading I decided to test the temperature sensor (250CAD for the ERC is a lot). I opened the back and found a sheet saying that:

F1 may mean excessive oven temperature(plus two other problems)

Which was another hint that it may be the sensor.

I measured the resistance - 1100 ohms??? I thought I need to buy an ERC.
But after I started the oven and it reached 550F, it gave the F1.

The resistance was well over 5000.
Measured again after it cooled a bit - 6000, again - 7000.
it reached 8000+. Well after the temperature peak.

An hour after - it was 2000.

I am replacing it.

So it all seems logical to me now. If one gets F error in the middle of backing, the temperature sensor should be checked. At different temperatures.

And just to comply with the rules - the model number is GRSR3920ZWW-4.

Thanks for all the info you've put on you site,

Nick




#35 ijourneaux

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Posted 21 September 2009 - 05:50 AM

We have a Maytag Gemini double oven. A few years back, we got an F1-1 code that was easily fixed by replacing the temperature sensor. A few weeks ago (again after a self-clean cycle) the F1-1 code reappeared. This time unfortuantely replacing the sensor seems to have been only a temporary solution.

The code disappeared for a couple of weeks and then reappeared last week. It went away by itself again and now seems to be working.

Is it possible that the new sensor is bad or do the symptoms point to a failure of the control panel. I am not eager to spend $220 dollars to try fix the oven if I don't have to. If the problem is the control panel, is there anything that can be done to fix it?

Take Care

#36 kdog

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Posted 21 September 2009 - 08:14 AM

Make certain that the sensor connection is good, sometimes the plastic connector will melt against a hot surface leaving a poor connection or wokkel kontaact behind. Also since the Gemini has 2 ovens and sensors, check both
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#37 ijourneaux

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Posted 21 September 2009 - 09:11 AM

Will do when I get home tonight. The problems seem to be restricted to the upper oven so up till now I have focused on the upper oven temperature sensor.

He is the typical sequence of events. Turn oven on. It preheats successfully to 350F. Put food in. Come back in 20-30 minute and oven is flashing F1-1 code, oven has no heat and indicating that we have to call a 800 number. Hit the cancel button and the F1-1 code usually goes away. Sometimes you have to do this several times but eventually the code goes away atleast until the next occurence.

Bottom oven seems to work fine.

I took a close look at the connectors to the temperature sensor. They looked ok. and resistance seemed to test ok across the sensor and where it connects to the circuit board.

#38 kdog

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Posted 21 September 2009 - 09:42 AM

There is also a plastic connector(plug) behind the oven where the sensor leads travel through, if this connector comes in contact with a hot surface it can melt - i will often cut the plastic plugs off and make a good connection by stripping the wiring and securing with a ceramic marette connector - start the oven with the rear panel open and wiggle and tug on the leads while it operates and this may cause the range to go into the failure mode
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#39 ijourneaux

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Posted 21 September 2009 - 10:37 AM

That seems like a good idea. Although the sensor is new, the leads going from the sensor plug to the circuit board are original. Perhaps that connector is the problem.

Trying to get it to fail by wiggling the cable may be a good test.



Where would I get some of the ceramic connectors you mention?


#40 kdog

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Posted 21 September 2009 - 10:57 AM

Electrical or appliance store - you don't necessarily need ceramic ones, as long as the connection is good, and the connectors are secured away from any hot surfaces
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