Jump to content



Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.


Parts Search
Site Search

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


To get started, click here.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

Amana Oven - ignitor lights, burner starts heating, then entire unit powers off!


  • Please log in to reply
7 replies to this topic

#1 fred_perkins

fred_perkins

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 14 posts

Posted 10 August 2009 - 09:02 AM

Amana gas range, model ACS3350.   A few seconds after pressing "Bake" button and setting temperature, ignitor lights up just fine and amp draw is within range.  About 20 seconds later, gas starts flowing (hiss is easily heard) and burner lights with steady blue flame.  Ignitor STAYS ON as oven heats.

After about a minute (heat usually gets up to around 300 F), a "click" sound is heard and then the entire unit powers itself off!  Ignitor goes dark, LED display goes dark, and about 3 seconds later the gas stops flowing (hissing stops). 

Breaker does NOT trip, and the unit will turn itself back on (clock flashing on display) after a minute or so.  HELP!  Suggestions?


Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 10 August 2009 - 09:17 AM

Sounds like your oven controller (EOC) is kickin up a fuss
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#3 fred_perkins

fred_perkins

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 14 posts

Posted 10 August 2009 - 09:27 AM

No F codes are ever displayed.  Should I bother checking sensor resistance (at room temp)?

#4 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 10 August 2009 - 09:41 AM

[user=53122]fred_perkins[/user] wrote:

After about a minute (heat usually gets up to around 300 F), a "click" sound is heard and then the entire unit powers itself off! 

Look for some charred components in the controller
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#5 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 10 August 2009 - 09:53 AM

Oven Thermostat controls the Oven Ignitors.

The Ignitor stays ON while the Gas is ON.

yes, does sounds like a flaky ERC, but check ACS3350 Technical Bulletin

ACS3350 Wiring Diagram

 

.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#6 fred_perkins

fred_perkins

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 14 posts

Posted 10 August 2009 - 10:25 AM

Can't tell whether autolatch assembly was replaced or not, but customer says that the controller was replaced once, in 2005 or 2006. 

I find no charred components whatsoever on either PCB of the controller that is installed presently. 

There are four electrolytic capacitors: 3300 microF, 470 microF, another 470 microF, and a 100 microF.  All look clean, but haven't checked any of them.

 



#7 fred_perkins

fred_perkins

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 14 posts

Posted 10 August 2009 - 10:54 AM

Believe it or not, the problem was actually caused by a flaky wall outlet!  I happened to jiggle the wall plug and noticed that the LED display powered on and off.  Tried another nearby outlet, and VOILA -- no more mysterious shutoffs!

Apparently, as the oven would heat up, some heat lost through the back panel would cause a main power break at the wall outlet.  I'm advising the customer to have an electrician replace the outlet and check the wiring in the wall.  


#8 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 10 August 2009 - 11:03 AM

Good Job!!
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics