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I just wanna take the door off


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10 replies to this topic

#1 Tunneller

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Posted 14 August 2005 - 11:48 AM

I've got a 3yr-old Jenn-Air JDB4000AWS that's failing to clean and leaving junk behind, mostly on the upper rail. Called a service technician, he disconnected the drain hose into a bucket, turned the machine on, looked at the water, felt the temperature by finger, said everything was ok, recomended a mineral cleaner, charged me $60 a went out the door! We tried the mineral cleaner (CLR) made no difference. Today I discovered this website and am following its instructions. Step one: open brewskie: done. I forgot what step two was. But I pulled out the dishwasher from the wall in case of kinked hose (no) and dismantled the upper spray arm - it had some junk in it that could have blocked the spray a little. Felt proud of myself because I had exactly the right size/shape screwdriver. Replaced spray. Turned machine on to check water level. It's good. Heater element didn't seem very warm??? I'm also suspecting a recirculation filter. But do I have one? In times past, I've seen gunk dribbling down from some kind of filter inside the door?! The screwdriver that worked before seems to fit the screws in the door.

Will I find a filter if I dismantle the door?

Some diagrams seem to indicate the recirculation filter is not in the door but surrounded by the heater element? Should I dismantle that instead? Same screwdriver appears to fit.

Any suggestions? Thanks, John


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#2 Tunneller

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Posted 14 August 2005 - 11:53 AM

Forgot to mention: distinct gurgling sound either in the top of the door or the top/front of the dishwasher. (No, it's not a gurgling sound in the sink or anything related to the drain hose -- it's deep in the machine)

Torx screwdriver is calling my name :-)

#3 Tunneller

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Posted 15 August 2005 - 08:32 AM

Found and checked the recirculation filter under the heating element. It was surprisingly clean. Also checking some previous posts, I saw the suggestion to place a glass right-side up in the top rack. After 60 seconds it was 3/4 full (and the water in it was dirty). Not sure if that's enough to suspect an impeller?

I also saw in some previous posts by Miles1996 a perfect description of the sandy-grit that is being left behind.

I'm still suspicious of whatever the orifice is the door.

#4 Tunneller

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Posted 17 August 2005 - 02:34 PM

Last weekend, I removed solid food particles (nut?) from inside the lower and middle sprays. Confirmed after a couple of tough cleaning jobs that this has made a *huge* difference.

Have now realized in addition that the top spray in the roof of the dishwasher is not rotating. Next...

#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 18 August 2005 - 02:59 AM

No filter in the door. Make sure the fill level in the basin is comes up alsmot to the heating element.

#6 Tunneller

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Posted 18 August 2005 - 03:58 AM

Water-level confirmed. I'd been vaguely uneasy that the water level didn't go significantly *above* the heating element, but it is exactly as you say.

Any thoughts how to make the top-most spray start spinning around? I haven't tried dismantling it yet - there are no visible clogs, but the spray is very light: if there were any water coming out at all it would move.

Regards, John

#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 18 August 2005 - 04:45 AM

[user=2795]Tunneller[/user] wrote:

Any thoughts how to make the top-most spray start spinning around?


It spins by water pressure. If you're not developing the pressure in the pump, and you're certain the water level is ok (the single most common cause for insufficient water pressure), then you're looking at rebuilding the pump.

#8 Tunneller

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Posted 18 August 2005 - 03:11 PM

Pulled off the roof-top spray head. Came off (and went back on) easier than I'd expected. The pipe was full of gunk. I *think* that spray is now rotating? I took the spray off and ran the machine with some CLR to try to circulate it up into the top-head. Also dicovered something neat. I took off the kickerplate and inside was some kind of guru instruction sheet. It recommended pressing the heavy wash key 5 times followed by the start key within 6 seconds. This would trigger a field service test and a whole bunch of different lights and tests and stuff. First time I did it, the result appeared to indicate a failed turbidity sensor (?). But a repeat of the same test came back with no errors. Er.. I fixed it?Dunno, next step is to get some dishes dirty. Thanks for the feedback, John

#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 19 August 2005 - 05:57 PM

I think you whupped that puppy. Nice job!

#10 Tunneller

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Posted 03 December 2006 - 06:50 AM

Seems like every couple of months I need to take out the rotating spray heads and clean them of junk. In the grand spirit of things, this is no big deal. Kind of fun getting out there with my Torq screwdriver and I always get a good beer reward from the missus.

But where is the junk coming from. I suspected a hole in the filter somewhere, but took everything apart, much more than I've taken apart before, and all of the filters are intact. But somehow 1/8" pieces of food are getting in. One of the spray heads is attached to the dish-shelf that pulls out. I'm musing that it doesnt make a good seal when the shelf is re-inserted. Apart from that I can't see any space in the system at all for fluid to enter. Wierd. Anyone else have this problem?


#11 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 03 December 2006 - 11:59 AM

Wow, voice from the past!

Your wash motor assembly just ain't cuttin' in anymore. I think it's time to give some thoughtful consideration to the wash motor assembly repair vs. replace question. Let the attached parchment of sacred Appliantology scripture guide illumine your consciousness so your awareness gradually perceives the true nature of problem. Om shanti.




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