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Psycho oven keeps shutting down


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17 replies to this topic

#1 mrlullabye

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Posted 16 August 2005 - 03:28 PM

Ok so I am a pretty handy guy, used to work on cars now I work on computers.  Somewhere along the way I thought I understood how things worked and could figure out why my oven stopped heating.  Now I could tell right away I was going to have a hard time because I couldn't grasp the idea of a burner on the top and a burner on the bottom.

So here I am gas oven won't heat on bake, but broil works fine.  I get to looking around and I can tell that since one works and the other doesn't it must be something in the bottom burner which I associated with bake because I am smart like that.  So I figure this little glowing thing isn't getting hot enough go out to sears parts central and buy me a new one, damn thing was $73 including tax.  Guy gives me the lecture about not toughing the ceramic looking part, great it is sort of surrounded by a metal cage, like I was really going to pry that open just to mess with the complicated looking part.

So I take like 4 layers of sheet steel out of the bottom of the oven to get to the little glowy thing some come out the bottom some come out the top.  I change it no big deal.  Then I turn the gas and power back on and try the bake works like a charm.  Well I thought it worked like a charm it glows REAL bright the gas comes on and makes fire, fire good before no fire.  However my wife bless her heart has put up with me changing the part took me a month to get motivated, cooked with it tonight.  She said if you leave it on it will go off after a few minutes.

Of course I don't believe her so I have to check it out for myself.  Sure enough I hit the bake button on the electro display 350 and bake again.  I see the glow through the cracks in the bottom of the oven hear the gas and viola we have heat.  Things look great, I wait.  It got up to 185 then the whole damn oven shut down.  The clock and all so something happened when it got hot that shut down the power to the oven, and that is where I am now.

I am fairly confident that I diagnosed the original problem of the ignitor coil having gone bad, and I assume that now something is overheating and shutting the oven down, but I don't have any idea what.  I used to be a automotive sheetmetal worker and I thought I had done a good job in disassembly and reassembly, but maybe I put something in wrong.

 

Any help would be appreciated, I feel like a bonehead to call a repair guy now that I have screwwed it up myself.

 

Thanks in advance

Kenmore gas

362.736119


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#2 mrlullabye

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Posted 16 August 2005 - 03:29 PM

I typoed the model number it is

362.736.1191

 

sorry I know how critical that 1 is


#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 16 August 2005 - 03:50 PM

Sounds like your present problem is unrelated to the initial problem; it just coincidentally dove-tailed on it.

It also sounds like the problem is a blown thermal fuse. Can't be sure without looking at the wiring diagram for your range, which is cleverly hidden inside your range-- the pots drawer is a common hiding place. Get it, post a legible and properly oriented copy here.

#4 mrlullabye

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Posted 16 August 2005 - 04:04 PM

They were actually hiding in an envelope taped to the back of the oven.

Attached Files

  • Attached File  oven.zip   143.01KB   4 downloads


#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 16 August 2005 - 04:10 PM

Good copy. Could you also post the schematic diagram that's included with that?

#6 mrlullabye

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Posted 16 August 2005 - 04:14 PM

Sure I tried to post them both at first, but it was larger then the max allowed by the site

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#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 16 August 2005 - 04:21 PM

Ok, it's not gonna be that easy-- no thermal overload. You'll have to blow the dust off your voltmeter and see if you're getting 120v to the ERC. Help using a meter here:

http://fixitnow.com/...tion-making.htm

Unplug the range, open the control panel and get it stable so you can poke around in there with your meter, then plug it back it to make the reading. You're looking for 120v wrt neutral in the wire labeled "L" on the ERC board.

#8 mrlullabye

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Posted 16 August 2005 - 04:37 PM

Ok let me make sure I am not going down the wrong road here.  When you say control panel you mean the visable pushy buttons front of the oven where the clock is right?

I know that sounds moronic, but I wanna make sure, just looking at it I have taken off like all the screws that are easy to get to in that area and it is still rock solid.


#9 mrlullabye

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Posted 16 August 2005 - 04:40 PM

sorry I am a bone head, there were two screws I had originally overlooked thinking they were pop rivets were actually torx screws. 

 

Lemme multi test it.


#10 mrlullabye

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Posted 16 August 2005 - 04:57 PM

ok using my finest sears digital multi meter I am able to get a fairly stead 123.6 volts between the grounding screw on the control panel and the header labeled L1.

#11 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 16 August 2005 - 05:03 PM

Good job! And still no display on the ERC? Then you need a new ERC.

#12 mrlullabye

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Posted 16 August 2005 - 05:07 PM

I am not sure if I fully explained this part or not.  Basically it all looks like it works.  I turn on bake and within about 3 minutes all power shuts off, clock bake everything.  It comes back on in about 2 minutes.

Just wanted to make sure that I clarified that I do get display, until about 3 minutes after turning bake on.


#13 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 16 August 2005 - 05:12 PM

Yes, you did say that, thanks for reminding me.

Ok, I'm suspecting some heat-related wire connection problem. These are notoriously difficult to track down. I would start at the "L" wire on the ERC and work backwards to the first wire harness connector that I saw depicted on the schmatic. Wiggle it, jiggle it, take it apart and reconnect it. Then try running the oven again.

#14 mrlullabye

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Posted 16 August 2005 - 05:18 PM

When I got the replacement coil the wire ends were lacking of connectors, so I had to cut the connectors off of the original coil and splice them onto the new coil using some supplied ceramic wire nuts.

I used my normal method of firmly twisting all of the wires clockwise seperately, then clockwise together then screwwing the wirenut on clockwise as well.  I don't know if that is how you are supposed to do it just how I have always done it, but then again I have never done work on an oven before.  Think I might have messed those up?

I also wondered whether the polarity of the device would make a difference, however I could see no markings on either coil to indicate so I guessed.


#15 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 16 August 2005 - 05:27 PM

Any wiring problem with the ignitor would not be causing the ERC display to blank out-- two different problems. Fugget about the ignitor; new problem.

#16 mrlullabye

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Posted 16 August 2005 - 05:45 PM

ok I pulled it out away from the wall took some access panels off and pulled, pushed and twisted on damn near every connector on the thing then fired it up.  It's been running for about 10 minutes now at 400 which is longer then it did before.  The control panel is just leaning against the back right now and the storage drawer is out, but everything else is the same so maybe I twisted something right.

 

I am gonna let it run for another 20 minutes before putting it together.  Thanks to all your help, I'll throw some beer money in.


#17 mrlullabye

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Posted 18 August 2005 - 03:05 AM

I think she might be fixed.  So far it ran for about 45 minutes the other day then yesterday the wife made lasagne in it and it did not fail us.  Thanks for the help

#18 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 18 August 2005 - 03:13 AM

:armed::cheers::guzzle::samurai:




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