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      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

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PatrickRansom

Maytag SxS Refrigerator not cold

7 posts in this topic

Hello,

Cool site, tons of information.  After doing my refrigerator kata in my domesticated dojo, I have realized I am not fully learned in the ways of the side by side refrigerator and seek some wisdom from my master.  Cleaned condenser, not very dusty at all .. the freezer is fine (quite cold), took apart the back side of the freezer to expose the evap coil, which was not iced over (had light frost on it).  Evap fan is located just above evap coil and is working fine, blowing cool air upward.  The intake vent is clear and so is the vent in the cold food section but not tons of air is blowing out of the intake, very little actually but I can feel cold air.  I found the ADC board, shorted L1 and test .. but not sure what to do after that?  After shorting I heard the click, waited for about 20 minutes .. looked in the freezer and everything was still cold and the fan was still running.  I have the cold controls for refrigerator on a 9 out of 10 and the freezer on 7 out of 10.  Any ideas for a young a eager pupil?  Thanks.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

The most lethal strike in a case such as this is to disassemble the inside of the freezer, remove the back, inside wall, and feast your Vulcan squinties on the evaporator. If it looks like this, then the defrost system has failed. Check the defrost heaters and defrost thermostat for continuity. If goo, replace the ADC board.

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Thank you o'wise one, you are truly a gifted teacher.  From the picture of the evaporator, it's hard to see what a bad vs. good one is supposed to look like, but from the picture I think mine looks close enough to say it's probably a defrost system failure.  Hence, I will assume the training position, only after thoroughly stretching, and look at the defrost heaters and defrost thermostat.  I have seen the thermostat (little cylindrical item clipped onto a copper tube just above the evaporator coil)...not sure of the location of the defrost heater in my freezer but I will use my newly training Vulcan squinties.  I think I read somewhere on this site how to test for continuity as it pertains to the defrost heater and thermostat but need to look again.  When I shorted the ADC board L1 and test earlier in my tests, should that have thrown the system into defrost mode and should the freezer have warmed up?  Any other direction master would be greatly appreciated, if it is indeed the ADC board that would be an easy fix for me and I'd most enjoy purchasing it on-line here. 

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Oh wise one, your loyal follower has purchased a multi-meter finally and with the help of your continuity guide, have found that the leads from the thermostat heater give a good tone, but the leads from the thermostat itself did not.  I, of course, followed your wise words and initially unplugged the refrigerator from the wall.  With the thermostat itself, the two wires that came out of it, one wire went to the wiring harness and I was easily able to stick on side of my meter probe in there, but I had to cut the second wire which did not goto the wire harness, rather it was coupled together with the thermostat heater wire, which I suppose went to the heater.  Cutting the one thermostat wire, I did this per the continuity instructions to perform the test.  Is this what I should have done?  Does this indeed mean what I think it does, that the thermostat is bad?  If so, do you have a place where I can buy it?  Thanks O' Master.

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Sorry for the second posting, but another question hit me.  Just because the defrost thermostat didn't pass the continuity test doesn't mean that the ADC is bad too right?  I know that when I shorted out L1 and test I heard the clicking sound, but nothing happened after that.  Didn't know if having a bad defrost thermostat would've nullified the ADC board test?  As I'm sure you can tell I am trying to cover all of my bases here .. and not forget anything you've taught me.

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Sounds like the ADC is ok, your defrost termination thermostat has bit the dust assuming it was cold when you tested it, we have found lots of these thermostats bad lately.  You can buy it right here from this site by using the Buy Parts Here link.  Tape  the wires off, defrost the freezer and turn it back on and you can use the frig till the part gets in.  It will cool fine for 2-5 days, then defrost it again when you replace the t-stat.

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