I am trying to repair my Amana washing machine Model LWA50AW, S/N R 9707020848.
I have the washer completely disassembled and am down to the outer tub with just the transmission attached. I am stuck! How do I get to the seal or get the remaining parts seperated? Of course I would also need to know how to reassemble the two parts also.
Thanks!
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Amana Tub Seal Replacement
Started by
Guest_Darryl_*
, Apr 19 2005 05:11 AM
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16 replies to this topic
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#2
Ron
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- Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Kohai
Posted 19 April 2005 - 05:58 AM
Darryl, you have taken on quite a task here, After you have gotten down to the drive bell and taken that off you are going to need a special tool to get that lock nut off. Its boomaranged on one side. I suggest you soak that nut with rust buster or turbine oil and let it sit for a while, In the meantime maybe the Samurai has some diagrams you can look at...Ron
#3
Guest_Darryl_*
Guest_Darryl_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 19 April 2005 - 06:06 AM
[user=58]Ron[/user] wrote:
I also understand that this really is not an economical repair but time is free and I really can't afford a new washer AND DRYER right now. I can't stand the thought of having a mis-matched set because I am spoiled! :)
My local repair guy won't touch it (not economical) and he also said the transmission will go in about 3-6 months from water intrusion and I will not be happy.
The leak just showed it's ugly self and really only dribbled quickly. Is this washer really doomed?????
Okay, I have the drive bell already off. What I am looking at is a rubber seal that the inner tub sets onto. Is the nut hidden in the folds of the rubber or do I pull this seal off with a puller? It seems to be pressed on. I would hate to have come this far only to end with failure!Darryl, you have taken on quite a task here, After you have gotten down to the drive bell and taken that off you are going to need a special tool to get that lock nut off. Its boomaranged on one side. I suggest you soak that nut with rust buster or turbine oil and let it sit for a while, In the meantime maybe the Samurai has some diagrams you can look at...Ron
I also understand that this really is not an economical repair but time is free and I really can't afford a new washer AND DRYER right now. I can't stand the thought of having a mis-matched set because I am spoiled! :)
My local repair guy won't touch it (not economical) and he also said the transmission will go in about 3-6 months from water intrusion and I will not be happy.
The leak just showed it's ugly self and really only dribbled quickly. Is this washer really doomed?????
#4
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted 19 April 2005 - 06:22 AM
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#5
Guest_Darryl_*
Guest_Darryl_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 19 April 2005 - 06:31 AM
[user=1]Samurai Appliance Repair Man[/user] wrote:
Does this response mean I am doomed? Must I make the long journey back to my home with my head held down in shame and tell my wife that I have failed?
[user=0]Darryl[/user] wrote:
I don't blame him!My local repair guy won't touch it
Does this response mean I am doomed? Must I make the long journey back to my home with my head held down in shame and tell my wife that I have failed?
#6
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted 19 April 2005 - 06:39 AM
[user=0]Darryl[/user] wrote: 
There's never any shame in trying, or even in failing...provided you do the honorable thing afterwards and slice open your belly.Must I make the long journey back to my home with my head held down in shame and tell my wife that I have failed?
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#7
Guest_Darryl_*
Guest_Darryl_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 19 April 2005 - 06:58 AM
[user=1]Samurai Appliance Repair Man[/user] wrote:
Agreed, If I fail I shall slice open my belly! Now....... does anyone have any advice on how to proceed. I am stuck, remember. :D
[user=0]Darryl[/user] wrote:
There's never any shame in trying, or even in failing...provided you do the honorable thing afterwards and slice open your belly.Must I make the long journey back to my home with my head held down in shame and tell my wife that I have failed?
Agreed, If I fail I shall slice open my belly! Now....... does anyone have any advice on how to proceed. I am stuck, remember. :D
#8
Guest_Darryl_*
Guest_Darryl_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 19 April 2005 - 11:13 AM
Can anyone tell me if I need a special tool or just how the heck to proceed further with disassembly? Pretty please?
#9
Ron
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- Sublime Master of Appliantology
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- 368 posts
Kohai
Posted 19 April 2005 - 02:06 PM
Darryl, Your going to have to have that tool I spoke of in my first reply otherwise your not going to get that locknut off. You are going to have to have the hub and seal kit when you put that thing back together. You have the drive bell off, Next your going to remove the seal and locknut. Next remove the splined insert. This is a major project even for an experienced tech, I hope you were able to bring up some diagrams of this....Ron
#10
Guest_Darryl_*
Guest_Darryl_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 19 April 2005 - 02:28 PM
[user=58]Ron[/user] wrote:
Sorry, lost my reply so if it shows up this will sound similiar.
Yes Ron you mentioned a tool for the locknut but I cannot even see the locknut yet. How do I remove the drive bell seal. And what special tools do I need to complete the job.
I have not been able to come up with any diagrams either.
If I leave it apart too long I'm afraid I won't remember how to reassemble. :)
Darryl, Your going to have to have that tool I spoke of in my first reply otherwise your not going to get that locknut off. You are going to have to have the hub and seal kit when you put that thing back together. You have the drive bell off, Next your going to remove the seal and locknut. Next remove the splined insert. This is a major project even for an experienced tech, I hope you were able to bring up some diagrams of this....Ron
Sorry, lost my reply so if it shows up this will sound similiar.
Yes Ron you mentioned a tool for the locknut but I cannot even see the locknut yet. How do I remove the drive bell seal. And what special tools do I need to complete the job.
I have not been able to come up with any diagrams either.
If I leave it apart too long I'm afraid I won't remember how to reassemble. :)
#11
Ron
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Kohai
Posted 19 April 2005 - 05:27 PM
Darryl, attached is a picture of the tool you will need, if you don't have it, don't go any further. You may want to contact Maytag to see if you can get this tool and any instructions or diagrams that will help you...Ron
#12
Jedi Appliance Guy
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Senpai
Posted 19 April 2005 - 05:34 PM
Hi Ron. This is a picture of my spanner wrenches. The one in the middle is almost universal. Think it might work in this situation?
#13
Guest_LtramSr_*
Guest_LtramSr_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 23 April 2005 - 10:42 AM
Darryl,
I need to remove the agitator from the exact model that you are having difficulty with. Kids washed TV controller which came out of the washer in 4 pieces, less batteries. I need to look under the agitator as there has been no sign of them (whole or pieces). Can you help?
I need to remove the agitator from the exact model that you are having difficulty with. Kids washed TV controller which came out of the washer in 4 pieces, less batteries. I need to look under the agitator as there has been no sign of them (whole or pieces). Can you help?
#14
Guest_Tuono_*
Guest_Tuono_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 13 May 2005 - 06:20 PM
1 1/2" Deep Socket and air impact wrench - Nut comes right off.
Hub under it comes off in pieces. Dremel tool and cutting wheel work here.
Hub under it comes off in pieces. Dremel tool and cutting wheel work here.
#15
JohnS
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- Grasshopper
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Unsui
Posted 25 June 2005 - 07:51 PM
I am doing the same repair on the same machine. I bought the service manual which says "Remove the large hex nut using a No. 306P4 Hex Wrench". I found the wrench on the internet which costs $30. How the heck does this thing work? It doesn't look special. Why can't I just use a open end wrench to remove the nut (I tried but so far no luck)?
I tried taking taking this blasted nut off for 3 days with a pipe wrench without even getting close to removing the thing. So I broke down and bought the wrench. Less than 10 taps with a hammer and the nut was loose. Don't know why but it works like a charm.
I tried taking taking this blasted nut off for 3 days with a pipe wrench without even getting close to removing the thing. So I broke down and bought the wrench. Less than 10 taps with a hammer and the nut was loose. Don't know why but it works like a charm.
#16
Guest_Walter_*
Guest_Walter_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 20 August 2005 - 02:31 AM
Thanks for this enlightening dialog. I am off to buy a new machine
#17
Guest_ChuckH_*
Guest_ChuckH_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 06 September 2006 - 07:45 PM
I have a nine year old model LW8203W2 Amana washer and am at the same stage. I have been able to remove the inner tub, the agitator, the drive bell and seal - I even managed to get the locknut off with a pair of vice grips and a few taps with a hammer.
What is the easiest way to remove the spline? Is the spline the last thing I need to remove before the hub? What is the easiest way to get that out? Break it with a hammer and chisel?
I found the 495P3 hub and seal kit online at www.partsking.com for $33.07. Any problems buying from them?
Thanks,
Chuck
What is the easiest way to remove the spline? Is the spline the last thing I need to remove before the hub? What is the easiest way to get that out? Break it with a hammer and chisel?
I found the 495P3 hub and seal kit online at www.partsking.com for $33.07. Any problems buying from them?
Thanks,
Chuck
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